Eurobricks Vassals
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Everything posted by mla2

  1. Looks better Where did you get the printed tires from?
  2. They do share email adresses with third party spammers, at least that's what happened for me and @R0Sch so I recommend using a throw away address.
  3. See for related information: "The delivery period for any new orders made with PaB Standard has been changed to 45 days. This will likely remain in place until the beginning of March. The number of elements available in the PaB Standard assortment has also been reduced during this time. Unconfirmed reports from our readers suggest some 5000 elements have been removed. New elements in sets from September, October and November 2023 will not be added to PaB Standard "until mid-March". However if these new elements fall under the Bestseller assortment, they will be added. We don't know which ones these will be. The Bestseller assortment remains unaffected."
  4. My generic Gamesir controller worked fine in iOS. It's a shame the beta was allowed to expire already, the controller support is really a big step forward.
  5. The varying wheel sizes of this set made me think of transforming it into a John Deere Dragster. I started out by loading all the parts into and seeing if there was enough options to achieve a dragster silhouette. It looked promising so I got the set at a nice discount (and a free 42163 as well ) and started building: in the beginning I had some doubts but ultimately, everything fell into place quite well and I was able finish a full dragster, using 86% of the original parts. It has hand of god steering and a working fake enige. It's quite long: 46 cm / 18 inch. Fun fact: early in the build process the model looks very much like the front bit of an X-wing and I am tempted to see it that's doable too. Who knew John Deere also built dragsters and spaceships. Here's some more pictures. The instructions (and digital model) are available for free on Rebrickable.
  6. Nice to hear! For the brick built accent in the middle of the spoiler I tried many solutions and was happy to find one that wasnt only Technic instead of System but also looked much better than all the others! Studio Part Designer indeed. I didn't do anything special: it streches the sticker a bit extra in the curved parts but otherwise it's ok. Did the same in my Mad Mutt RC MOC.
  7. Thanks! The CADA version uses a different mud guard at the back but from TLG that one is only available in white with a print + orange (and the front one only in dbg, red or black). I also dont like the flex axles myself. Perhaps the entire car could be lowered a bit instead, havent tried that.
  8. I've built my own version of old set C63002W which is a Pagani Huayra Roadster BC in 1:10 scale. When I first saw it I was suprised since I hadn't seen it before (its not present on the CADA website) and immediately liked it since I like 1:10 most for some reason. Luckily free instructions where available and after looking at what mudguards could be used I picked to build it in DBG and black with red accents which is most like in Pagani's promotional material: Quickly I found some disappointing problems with the set, most notably an unopenable front hood and engine cover but in fact many more problems. I suppose it wasn't really ready for sale and tried to improve it, using pictures of the real car to see how the front hood and engine cover actually opened. I wasnt prepared for how much time it was going to take and also wasn't yet aware of the other problems of the set's design but in the end I did achieve what I was hoping for and here are some photos of my first proof of concept: Here's the full list of the most important changes: The front hood and rear engine cover can now be opened and kept open, both in the same way as on the real car. Added Powered Up and Buggy/Monster motor support. Add throttle and brake pedals, and extra brake light like on the real car and improved the rearview mirror. Added an openable glove box and more cabin details. Added rear air breaks and brick built red accents to the engine cover and spoiler like on the real car. Made the engine visible from the top like on the real car, instead of using a sticker to suggest a window. Widened both axles with 2 studs so proper looking wheels can be used instead of racing wheels. Added an extra pair of shock absorbers to the real axle to prevent sagging. Replaced the System based rear diffuser with a Technic one, also fixing the original asymmetry. Replaced the front bottom LED bar with a brick built solution instead of using a sticker. Modified the center console to better resemble the real car. I also found a nice stickerset on for the red strip on the front hood. After this I built the virtual model, created instructions and built in proper colors. It can be built in red and black also: See Rebrickable for the free instructions and also I move a little demo movie using a Buwizz monster motor: Thanks to CADA for releasing their instructions for free!
  9. I also got spam from a company called Godbricks on an email address only used for a CaDA order. So it seems they sell / share email addresses with third parties indeed :(
  10. They do if you order from their US or EU or CA warehouse.
  11. It's both perplexing and distressing that TLG is OK with releasing a car without a steering wheel and at least 1 seat. I'm glad you created this model so I made instructions for it. You can download them from - Detachable Interior.pdf. Please feel free to share them on Rebrickable if you want. I don't actually own 42160 nor did I build your model but I think the steps should work well.
  12. During my recent vacation I worked on a chopper alternate for 42155 based on the "Chopper" B model of the old 8051 set which I built earlier and really liked (discovered thanks to @2GodBDGlory's great book) and some pictures of custom choppers, especially this one. While working on it I felt that 42155 seems to have a quite limited set of parts: of certain parts or part types there are many but other types are sorely missing. Like it has 19 axles of length 3 but only 2 of length 4. It also has 16 and 26 (!) in length 3 and 2 which make up more than 10% of the set's parts if you exclude pins and axles, but of the entire family of angled connectors it has only: 2 * #3 and 1 * #5. Nonetheless I'm happy with the end result and hope you like it too. I've uploaded free instructions to Rebrickable at It comes with front suspension, working steering and V-twin engine, chopped exhausts, a hardtail frame and last but not least: a side mounted gun It uses 73% of the parts including all panels and 1 spare bar. I might do a second version later on which uses more black parts and has some other build changes using parts that were missing in 42155.
  13. Larger Cada panels (#3/#4 and larger) are made of two parts. You can combine them to make a 'normal' panel by connecting them with a pin and a bar but you can also combine them in other ways like by leaving out the base (non wing) part. Example showing both uses at once: With Lego parts this submodel would be one longer because it has to contain 2 bases.
  14. I've uploaded free instructions for the stand to Rebrickable.
  15. This is a really coold build. Amazing that you manage to figure out that this was possible as an alternative. I used my own parts to tweak the looks a bit and also added a stand which can be used without having to modify the fighter.
  16. I did a version with a Buwizz 3. Do note if uses a PU large motor for steering instead of a PF servo. See
  17. Here's an .io file with the rim and back tire: I took these from It says they still need work which probably explains why they're missing in Studio. Also there's no connection points so you will need to move them into place manually. Hope this helps.
  18. Fwiw, this is against Rebrickable's rules and not allowed. You can make the instructions but Lipko must be the one posting them. Silly rule imho and not enforced as far as I can tell since there are many counter examples but something you might want to know anyway.
  20. The contact about my battery box and controller order was with Nancy at Unfortunately my latest 2 emails about a manual for the box and controller have gone unanswered but before that contact was good. My initial contact before Nancy replied was with
  21. Yes, see
  22. I received one last week. It took some time since CADA initially sent me the old grey top version even after email contact confirming they were going to send the new white top version. But they fixed that quickly so it the end no complaints. I shortly tried it with 2 Buwizz motors on a model which would shut down a lot with a Buwizz 3.0 at 100% and less often at 90%. With the CADA battery it did not shut down. Even if I push the model around or block it at full throttle it does not shut down. I do not yet know how fast it is compared to the Buwizz battery at 90%, but the speed is good. Unfortunately, the controller kind of sucks to be honest compared to others I have: The joysticks on top only go up and down and not left to right but I'm used to using a left to right joystick for steering I don't see a way to connect multiple battery outputs to a single controller joystick. I asked CADA for a manual but have not yet received a reply. The remote is quite a bit bigger than others I have and also uses AA instead of AAA batteries. The joysticks are not proportional and only on-off. I tried it with a MK 4.0 controller which doesn't have the above problems except that it's also only on-off but they didn't connect. If only BrickController2 would support the CADA battery box, that would be so perfect!
  23. A while ago I did various motorized versions of the 42151 Bugatti Bolide, starting with one which uses a Buwizz 3, a buggy motor and a C+ large motor. This was a fun project and recently I got the idea to try and do the same for the smaller 42150 Monster Jam Monster Mutt Dalmatian. Initially I had the impression that it was too small to fit the Buwizz but at some point I relealized I could make it two studs wider in the middle without really changing its looks . After that things quickly came together and I had a working version, again using a Buwizz 3, a 1:1 geared buggy motor and a C+ large motor. Unforntunately I couldn't stop myself from trying to make version with a PF servo motor for steering instead of the C+ large motor. I tried many different configurations and in the end I found a clean solution which a) offers the extra space needed by the longer C+ motor, b) allows the very large steering range needed by the PF servo motor, c) has the space for the different plug configurations (1 PF + 1 PU, or 2 PF), and d) does not require different parts to switch between versions. Quite proud of it! This final configuration uses 90% of the original parts + 150 extra parts. Being two studs wider meant I could also use tractor tires instead of balloon tires for the version with the C+ large motor. Also I was able to make it work with any buggy motor and not just the slim ones from Buwizz. So in the end it's quite accessible since it would work with only cheap electronics from alternative brands. The only downside is that the center of gravity is still very high so it flips easily when cornering with high speed, even with tractor tires and being two studes wider. I looked at adding a nice set of balls of steel to the bottom of it but they seem quite light if Bricklink is right: only 24 grams a piece which I don't think is going to make a difference. Otherwise though it's great fun to drive and super fast. In fact, it's so fast I can't make a video of it at home, I will do one later at the office. Here's some pictures and renders. I will post free instructions on Rebrickable once the video is also done. Hope you like it any any comments or suggestions are welcome! C+ large motor: PF servo motor:
  24. Thanks! It's already two studs wider than the original set.