anyUser

I did a quick check with two of my parts Test setup: Attach each part on the end of a 5L axle (taken from my parts, so special selection) hold each piece with a hand and pull in the direction of the axle: Which part will come off from the axle? I switched over sides of the axle and, because first result appeared to be biased, also changed between left and right hand. Results were unconclusive.

Is there an explanation why panels and do not properly align? When building the Bugatti I found: e.g. the angled panels stick out by 0.5(?) mm. The same holds for the 2x1x1 panel.

This is a minor one: I was disppointed with the propellers not giving any noticeable airflow. This piece would allow to adjust the blade pitch as necessary.

Has someone already mentioned that the curvature of the new panel 2438, 2442 (from 42152, 42154) does not match the curvature of this part: ? There is a small deviation:

Instead of the 2L black friction pin on the spring would it be possible to insert a 3L axle pin later on?

Starting from your sttering configuration I had to agree to your finding that the tyres are scrubbing at maximum steering lock. I believe that I found a simple solution that appears to be stable enough to allow to play with the model: Top view: Bottom view: Detail: The setup is symmetrical resp. identical for both axles. Tyres will still scrub on falt surface but the amount has decreased sufficiently (for me).

Now that I know where to look I can confirm that the provided photos show the mentioned phase shift with respect to my build.

Hello, I had the same impression and wrote about is some time ago. There were a few remarks on that.

The angles between the 4L lever beam, 3L link, and 2L beam at the fork are changing when moving up and down. And the distance of the lever beam to the fork mast changes. I think there's no way the axle hole of the 3x2x1 panel could be used for articulation. Just when I was going to verify the pickup it didn't work a couple of times. I believe it somehow relies on the slack between the fork and the mast. Just by turning the worm screw the other direction (a bit) helps to put the fork to the lowest position.

The worm driven lever is connected to the fork by a 3L beam. Therefore it's lower point is defined by the down-position of the fork + the 2L half-beams hitting the chassis.

I've taken an image but no inventory:

On most technic boxes the production code is printed black letters on (only) one of the sealing tapes. It is (very) difficult to find and read. Older ones have them punched into the box material. My box has 34M1, one of the actuators 20X1 What kind of 'actuators are we talking about?

I just finished the model. You are right: the collective lever will return to the lowest position from the weight. But I don't mind since the control appears to be adequate.

I've got a question / remark on the friction dampening used on the cyclic lever(s): In step 142 a 3L red friction pin is inserted into two beam. In step 143 a 8-tooth gear is addes that connects to the axle of the cyclic control. I found this very stiff, alost not turning at all. Instead the beams were twisting. I therefore replace the 3L red pin by a 3L black one. How do you rate the friction on your model / build?

The blue pump has a travel of 2L (studs). The yellow (old) one (5L long) can only do 1L. You would have to use a 1/2L crankshaft as in 8868 to drive it. But it will give you only half as much air per revolution.

I have checked mine which has been in parking position for about 6 months: The 5x7 frames that connect to the tracks are sagging. It's about 1 mm between the grey frame and the black 16L beam. This only occurs at the front. Perhaps because a second support cannot be installed because of the battery box Control+ hub.

Hi, could you rephrase that question: What is the (physical) measure of "strong"?

1: 10 7: 6 4: 4 16: 3 9: 2 6: 1

I thought I might start one: In the Set topic thread there was some discussion if the drum would unload if pushed backwards. At about the same time a small setup at Rebrickable reminded me of an improvement. I believe that I got a working setup now:

Would this: Any model with wheels > build in yellow parts, add some black accents = construction vehicle be a valid assumption?

I guess it's the new (white one #65249). To address the question: Last year I had a similar issue with an axle moving slowing out of a differential under load. Therefore I bought these new pins. But I haven touched the model since then...

That tow 'bar' at the rear is not really well suited to pick up any truck that I tried (8462, 8436, 42078, 42112). It attaches at the very front only. Thus it is likely to lose the towed vehicle. My aim was to have a sturdy bar that can pick up the breakdown truck near its front axle. These are the parameters: - should be as flat as possible to fit underneath the truck - hinged to allow for turns - space to allow for 16 & 20 tooth gear from drivetrain to motor behind the hood - keep pneumatic function as before I am quite confident with a solution that is based on a 28tooth turntable and 13L or 15L beams: The setup uses two pairs of cross blocks 41678 to guide and keep the lift fork in the upright position. (This is possible only when the fork is aligned with the truck.) This construction is somewhat basic but can easily adapted to special requirements of the breakdown trucks underside.

That would change my initial list considerable: - I started with studless technic by slowing turning the 8436 truck into a tipper lorry. - I spent quite some time modding 8462. - I enjoyed building 42079 forklift from first released pictures and then improving it. - I had to construct a better chassis for 42108 crane. - I build a studless bulldozer similar to 856 (cf. avatar picture) - It took quite a while to get the 42112 cement mixer truck working as I would like. But then again, these models aren't the original sets any more...

You could also ask in the train section: Some people have been building train bridges of several meters length for 15 .. 20 years. I think not all of them were of the suspension type. But, since the interior won't be seen I would probably use an iron girder to cover that length.

I found a better solution: When I made sure that the axle end is level with the yellow 1/2 bushing the drivetrian runs smoothly as you would expect fro the beginning.