Eurobricks Citizen
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by anyUser

  1. I thought I might start one: In the Set topic thread there was some discussion if the drum would unload if pushed backwards. At about the same time a small setup at Rebrickable reminded me of an improvement. I believe that I got a working setup now:
  2. Would this: Any model with wheels > build in yellow parts, add some black accents = construction vehicle be a valid assumption?
  3. I guess it's the new (white one #65249). To address the question: Last year I had a similar issue with an axle moving slowing out of a differential under load. Therefore I bought these new pins. But I haven touched the model since then...
  4. That tow 'bar' at the rear is not really well suited to pick up any truck that I tried (8462, 8436, 42078, 42112). It attaches at the very front only. Thus it is likely to lose the towed vehicle. My aim was to have a sturdy bar that can pick up the breakdown truck near its front axle. These are the parameters: - should be as flat as possible to fit underneath the truck - hinged to allow for turns - space to allow for 16 & 20 tooth gear from drivetrain to motor behind the hood - keep pneumatic function as before I am quite confident with a solution that is based on a 28tooth turntable and 13L or 15L beams: The setup uses two pairs of cross blocks 41678 to guide and keep the lift fork in the upright position. (This is possible only when the fork is aligned with the truck.) This construction is somewhat basic but can easily adapted to special requirements of the breakdown trucks underside.
  5. That would change my initial list considerable: - I started with studless technic by slowing turning the 8436 truck into a tipper lorry. - I spent quite some time modding 8462. - I enjoyed building 42079 forklift from first released pictures and then improving it. - I had to construct a better chassis for 42108 crane. - I build a studless bulldozer similar to 856 (cf. avatar picture) - It took quite a while to get the 42112 cement mixer truck working as I would like. But then again, these models aren't the original sets any more...
  6. You could also ask in the train section: Some people have been building train bridges of several meters length for 15 .. 20 years. I think not all of them were of the suspension type. But, since the interior won't be seen I would probably use an iron girder to cover that length.
  7. I found a better solution: When I made sure that the axle end is level with the yellow 1/2 bushing the drivetrian runs smoothly as you would expect fro the beginning.
  8. My guess on a potential issue: Start of gearbox assembly is around step 70 (book 1). The other 'end' gets fixed -completely- in step 127 (also book 1). Until then, the rather long axles could be considered as hanging free/ sticking out. This could lead to disorder of the function selector. It may be possible to accidentally loose a gear. There is a row of red 16tooth gear transferring rotation between left and right side where you should pay attention to minimise the friction.
  9. Did you consider to check if the motors are working correctly - as a single / before built into the model? This could be done using the Powered Up app to avoid the check if correct set of motors is connected. Other option would be to select a different technic set profile that has one or two L type motor(s) (One of the 'buggy' cars perhaps). This would avoid the elaborate gear changing procedure that is programmed into the 42131 profile.
  10. Question one: I'm no big fan of "super cars". The old ones (8860, 8865, 8880, 8448) were OK because you could easily see the interior. But I don't get the point of the newer (42056, 42083, 42110, 42115) ones: All technic (what the series is about) function are covered by panels... Question two: (in no order of preference) 8459 / 8439 / 8464 - best pneumatic set because of its smooth functions and agility of steering 8443 - simply brilliant what can be achieved at this piece count 8462 - first set that I modded 42042 - big, solid, and a gearbox that doesn't rely on the polarity switch of the battery box 856 - very resposive function + precise control of the bucket. Haven't seen anything similar in a technic set since then.
  11. There is a video by kbalage (if I remember correctly) linked in one of the 42128 topics where he investigates on the switching behaviour of the gearbox. Basically this is to ensure that both motors of the non-driving function are able to turn freely. Thus if you cannot get any movement of the blade (if I remember the procedure correctly this is done first) there would be something blocked inside. A good part of the gearbox is visible from the bottom for a sight check. Beside the calibrating you could the the function test that is recommended during the build procedure to check if the indicated parts are working.
  12. adding previous tow trucks: (left: 8462 modded -wheels, cabin interior- version, right: 8285)
  13. Just a short note: set number of the Ford Mustang is 42138, not 42128.
  14. You should use "setup-ut test" (not calibration) after stage 2 / step 198 to verify that gearbox provides output to all function. This is indicated by the test procedure. However, I found that direction of turning is not always clearly indicated by the app. It is useful to perform the test: I put in the yellow gear driving extension ring in the wrong orientation... There is little use to perform a motor endpoint calibration during stage 2 as (all) the endpoints are not yet defined. Thus motors will rotate forever without getting to the "stop" point. During calibration there could be an issue: The height of the blade is calibrated first. If the blade is fully tilted backwards, e.g. toward the chassis, the blade cannot be rised to its maximum possible height. Therefore the blade should be tilted forward before calibration is started.
  15. My impression on the colour of the 42134 Megalodon is dark azure rather than medium blue. Also from the video review. Anybody else too? Or do I have to check my screen settings?
  16. It is (already) used in the botanical line. I cannot imagine a technic model that featured dark/earth green as colour element. However, it may occur as internal building element as means of colour coding.
  17. I can confirm that the pnematic cylinder is moving a bit when the bar is retracted. The proposed solution works much better but the tube gets squezed by the tow bar in its upper position - respectively prevents from being fully upright. To me it already made a difference when I removed the blue 3L liftarm and kept the tube inside the grey connector. I made another observation: When I push the truck in forward direction the 'cylinders' in the fake engine often block the rotation of the crankshaft. This does not happen if the truck is moved backwards. I have bulid the motor accroding to instructions: (Step 334) End of brown axle is levelled with the 1/2 bushing. This appears to be a similar issue as with the first version of the 42112 cement mixer. Raising the brown axles by (almost) 1/2 L will remove the issue.
  18. I observed similar behaviour of the tow 'bar': - it can easily be moved up and down, e.g. for testing several times in a row - I put on some weight (truick) to find about the lifting capability. After that it took a couple of pumping 'sequences' to raise the bar (I did not use my hand to push it up directly) - I kept the bar for a day in the lower position, again after some weight had been put onto it. It was even more reluctant to change position. Could it be some grease that locks the piston in its extended position?
  19. Another, not-so-proper method is to disable the bluetooth interface of your mobile device. The hub will notice the loss of connection and switch off after some grace period. ( ) If some member of the Lego powered hub developer team is reading this by chance: To me it appears to be nonsense to have to press a switch for 7+ seconds to disable the hub. Just tested with 42131: after (ca.) 5s permanent press of the button on the hub it starts blinking (short pulse white, similar to start). If no lego app is ready to connect it will eventually turn itself off.
  20. Thanks, that is the video I had in mind - but could not find any more.
  21. I don't know if this has been mentioned before and I cannot find (immediately, no full search) any remarks: In Step 122(Book 1) a cardanic transmission is shown that does not look right to me: Is this the correct alingment of joints for optimum transmission? i found this image in another discussion that indicates a different setup: I found this:
  22. Looks good with the old shovel. I fitted the 68.7 x 27 tires by adding 1/2 bush to each axle.
  23. Do excessive colour coding: Purpose: To recognize the used parts within (inside) a model without having to guess. You could break that down to: - One palette for pins (black, grey, red, dark grey, tan, blue) - One coulor set for axles (black, red, grey, yellow, white, green, dark grey (brown, tan), green) - One for connectors - One for beams The first three sets pose constraints one the use of colours within the other ones. But then again: spend more time building than thinking about next colour or searching for it...
  24. No, but it's been a long time ago: 8651 (2005). The buggies from 8363 (2003) seem to have pendular front axles.
  25. I wonder if you can build a (technic) set where each part used has a diffenrent colour. I already failed on 30465: