CrispyBassist

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by CrispyBassist

  1. New Haven Railroad GP-9

    Thanks, all for the kind words! Just the photo, the reds match very nicely in reality. The trucks have changed, though that was done previously. Here's the current trucks: NYNH&H GP-9 Truck Detail by Matt Csenge, on Flickr As you know, I personally like using PF train motors with plate-built sides. I've got similar setups on my RDC and my three big boxcabs (with a fourth in the works). Sorry to switch teams on ya, though NY was where I started out :-)
  2. New Haven Railroad GP-9

    I recently rebuilt my GP-9 to resolve some aspects of it that I was unhappy about. Here's the final result: New Haven GP-9 Rebuild by Matt Csenge, on Flickr Primarily, I rebuilt it so that the section around the battery box and IR receiver is truly 5-studs wide. After that, I added the fuel ports to the sides of the fuel tank. Then, being inspired by Aaron Burnett's amazing Central of Georgia GP-9, I modified the ends using less-than-half-stud offsets to get rid of the stepped slope typically seen when using cheese slopes. I also added lights using Brickstuff's new Power Functions Power Source v2, which includes directional lights. Unfortunately when I moved back to NY I misplaced my controller, so I haven't tested it yet... Stickers from OK Brick Works and Jim Pirzyk. New Haven GP-9 Rebuild by Matt Csenge, on Flickr New Haven GP-9 Rebuild by Matt Csenge, on Flickr And here's the pre-rebuild version: NYNH&H GP-9 by Matt Csenge, on Flickr
  3. Building BMR Freight cars

    I cranked out a couple BMR flat cars following the tankers I built: BMR Flat Cars by Matt Csenge, on Flickr The first is the Southern Pacific car in dark red that BMR offered stickers for. I had a custom order with OK Brick Works and asked for the SP heralds in addition. I came up with the tarped load using the fabric piece from the Indiana Jones Race for the Stolen Treasure set (7622). Southern Pacific 142588 by Matt Csenge, on Flickr Second is the Turtle Creek Central car in reddish brown. When cleaning I came across a sheet of TCC decals that were included in an issue of Model Railroader Magazine from 2002. While the sheet was made for HO and N scale models, the heralds (as you can see) fit perfectly on 2x2 tiles! The aforementioned OK Brick Works logo took care of the rest of the stickers. Turtle Creek Central 132 by Matt Csenge, on Flickr So far I've got a pretty good train going! Lego Freight Train by Matt Csenge, on Flickr
  4. MOCer's will you buy the new train sets?

    Nope. I'll buy the Power Functions bits and track to support tlg, but the sets don't appeal to me anymore. I'd rather moc things that I want to and make them as realistic as possible. I was tempted by the Maersk set though...
  5. How long is too long?

    THAT is a great point that I completely forgot about. My Budd RDC is log and low enough that it still hits the switch stands without the levers. If that becomes an issue, one of the aftermarket track manufacturers (can't remember which one) makes switches with the throws on the other side.
  6. How long is too long?

    Depends, too long for what? My longest loco is ~68 studs long (and properly scaled), and I know others who have longer. The longer it is, the more it will overhang going through curves (especially Lego r40's) but with the right amount of rotational freedom in the trucks it'll run just fine.
  7. need help with adding lights to my trains

    I don't usually order the kits, mainly just packs of lights, connecting wires, and the PF adapter as I need them for projects.
  8. need help with adding lights to my trains

    I'd suggest taking a look at Brickstuff lights. I've used them on every project I've done with lighting, and have never been disappointed. In my opinion, they're way better than Lego's lights for a number of reasons. The lights, wires, and connectors are much smaller and can fit in so many more places than the Lego ones can and will take up much less space inside the train. Hope this helps!
  9. FS 207 - Badoni / Breuer type IV

    I've seen a few people (*cough, cough* legoman666) on this forum use metal model railroad wheels and create custom track power pickups. If you could get your hands on some metal train wheels maybe you could use something similar to provide track power? Not sure how good you are with wiring and electronics, of course!
  10. How should I rebuild my bogies for bearings?

    If you're looking to rebuild the stock bearings then the second image is probably your best bet, unless you want to build your own sideframes. Like you said, just fit the bearing into the axle hole, stick the axle through the bearings, and add the wheels. Sometimes a drop of glue is needed to keep the wheels from falling off. There's more details in this thread, which you probably already saw. What sort of setup did you use with the bearings when you tested? I ask because the bearings perform better than everything I try, especially the standard Lego wheel holders. The friction is so little that my heavy 8x60+ stud passenger cars start to roll on what I thought was a flat surface! Practically everyone I talk to finds the same benefits.
  11. Type E Coupler for LEGO Trains

    Speaking of long trains, these would be great because unlike the magnets there's some play in a knuckle coupler instead of the cars being rigidly coupled. This would allow the locomotive to overcome the static friction of the cars one at a time, theoretically allowing it to start a longer train.
  12. Building BMR Freight cars

    BMR Tank Cars by Matt Csenge, on Flickr Just got around to taking pictures of my BMR tank cars. I definitely enjoyed the builds, especially after not building anything for a few months. I departed from the design slightly here and there, including a red 1x1 tile for the hazmat placard, chains (piece 92338) on the brake rigging, minifig axes for the journal boxes (though I'm not 100% sold on this), and three domes on the Esso rather than two (no particular reason here). I tried to number mine differently than the standard sticker set, but completely forgot in my excitement to sticket the Shell car. The redesigned trucks shown here look great, so I'll probably convert to those soon. Next up I'm planning two flat cars: Southern Pacific in dark red with a generic load, and Western Maryland in reddish brown. After that a couple more hoppers, a bunch of boxcars, and a special car or two all to make up a nice consist for my EF-1. As for the discussion on the bar clips for the trucks, I've found this method works real well without pieces popping off: NH Osgood-Bradley Lightweight Coach Truck by Matt Csenge, on Flickr The "bar holder" ends of the bar holders fit over the 1x2 plate with handle, making them much more secure. Substituting the 1x2 plate with handle and closed ends (48336) with the one with open ends (2540) would probably help even more. I run these on some of my passenger coaches and haven't had any problems with them falling off (then again, I haven't had any issues with the traditional bar clip method).
  13. [MOC] Miscellaneous Train Projects

    The top left are attached with 1x2 plates with clips on the short side (part 63868) and I build the sideframes out of SNOT plates with clips and bars. It also gives a slimmer profile to the sideframes, which I prefer. There's a bit more explanation on my Flickr.
  14. [MOC] Miscellaneous Train Projects

    These are looking very nice! You don't have to use the Lego motor frames with the PF motor, my GP-9 for example has built up sideframes for extra realism.
  15. Just an idea for switches

    Woah, these are neat. Any plans for producing them in the flesh (or plastic, as it were)? They would certainly bring a lot of options for layouts.
  16. LNER Class A4 4468 - MALLARD

    The door and ring are because the tender is a corridor tender, with a small hallway so that on long trips the relief crew to get from the cab of the locomotive to the train. The ring is a window to illuminate the passage. See this article for more info.
  17. Those even look a lot like MU couplers, which often have power transfer built in. I might have to try this too...
  18. For those that build with a digital program that might work. Not all of us do though, and tracking down all the parts strewn across the floor gets old quick. So does spending hours rebuilding the thing every day. Just because it's "supposed to be a kids toy" doesn't mean everyone sees it that way or wants their best builds smashed repeatedly. I've not had issues with this, and mine are all long, heavy 8-wide. I keep a layer of bubble wrap under them and on the sides, which actually might help support it by the low parts between the trucks.
  19. Lego Railway Signaling

    This is actually the opposite of how the real railroads would do it: flashing aspects always (in the US at least) are less restrictive than solid ones. This is so that if the flashing mechanism fails, the signal doesn't erroneously show a more permissive aspect. In other words, the flashing green would mean the next signal is clear and the solid green would mean the next signal is red. Granted, you're not trying to replicate the real railroads, but I thought I'd comment on the fail-safe nature of the system.
  20. Kiko´s Train World

    This may be true, but I use them exclusively on my rolling stock and have never had an issue. I've even ran them on very uneven tables at high speed without issue.
  21. Lego Ambulance Plane MOD

    I've had issues with this in the past too. On Flickr I go to the pic I want to add, click the download button (bottom right corner), click "view all sizes", pick the size I want (based on Eurobricks guidelines), right click the picture and select "Copy image address" (may be something different, but similar for browsers other than Chrome), then when I drop the link in the box here it automatically becomes an image. Hope this helps.
  22. London Underground 'tube' MOC. (1996 stock)

    The London Underground has two power rails as well, one on the side of the track and one between the running rails, so a line of tiles down the middle of the track for the road wheel to run on would actually be prototypically correct for the system. This line of tiles could be built up to the height of the rail and possibly make a smooth transition over switches.
  23. This is a great idea, particularly because it saves us from having to cut apart standard Lego turnouts to get these geometries! Just to confirm, will these geometries will allow for proper switch ladders with tracks at standard spacing?
  24. [MOC] Bubba died in Vietnam war

    Nice water effect with those tiles not fully pressed down! I'm gonna save that idea for future use...
  25. My Rise from the Dark Ages

    Looking good! That thing looks like it's flying even faster than my trains do!