CrispyBassist

One of his two interlocking plants had levers in place to control the switches, but my understanding was he had yet to figure out the best way to connect the switches to them. The smaller one only had levers controlling the signals. Here's a link to a video of his interlocking machine.

Thanks for the kind words! I'm partial to electrics too, and particularly boxcabs because they're so beautifully ugly and weird. I had somehow never seen the EMD GF6C before. I've got two more lined up to be built next, a New Haven EP-2 and a New York Central R-2. The EP-3 was flying on those curves! I was pretty worried about it overturning, but it needed some good speed to keep the momentum up through the closer curves with 5 heavy passenger cars in tow.

I've got a couple videos up on my Flickr as well: https://www.flickr.com/photos/91993389@N08/albums/72157670317883542 I've got a Brickstuff Pico LED running to it under the conductor's feet. I fit one of their small battery packs into the interior of the caboose and made the cupola removable for access. The side benefit is that the LED wire kept the lantern from falling off during the show! Gerrit's interlockings are pretty awesome. I spent quite a bit of time manipulating the levers in the towers, and chastising those engineers who passed stop signals! Maybe the bars there are open later than the ones in Indy...

Wow, this looks awesome! Is this the one we saw partially built at Brickworld? Using track power and a Bluetooth controller is a very interesting idea. Must be nice not having to squeeze a battery and IR receiver in!

Technically the "hand of God" is prototypical operation, as a worker must go manually lift the decoupling lever to decouple cars on the real railroad. While it may not be possible during the public hours of a show, it might be doable during the "off" hours at, say, Brickworld. Might be something to think about for next year. Not to volunteer any LUGs that I'm not a part of, but I know of at least one layout that usually has industrial sidings all over the place and a huge yard... Again, not trying to volunteer anyone though.

Thanks for bringing those over here Dr. Spock. Didn't realize that thread would be locked... Just to clarify some of those questions are regarding the app rather than the device itself.

After reading the Kickstarter page and skimming the thread in the Technic forum I'm intrigued by this. I do have a few questions, mostly regarding the app and stemming from my experience with SBrick: 1. Will the trains stop if I leave the app or if my phone sleeps? Trains are different from RC vehicles in the sense that you can "set and forget" them on a loop. 2. Can multiple controls be linked to each output? This would allow for such things as emergency stop buttons. Speaking of which... 3. Will there be an emergency stop button? While Lego train crashes can be impressive, it would be nice to have a quick way to stop the train. 4. Will this have the 2-hour timeout limit that Lego battery packs have?

My EP-3 with a five-car passenger consist at Brickworld Chicago (the second train in the video). Not quite the longest train on this thread, nor the longest at Brickworld, but it was able to keep pretty impressive speed around the NILTC layout (Thanks to the two train motors powering it)! Thanks go to Vinnie for letting me borrow one of his coaches. Curve Meet by Matt Csenge, on Flickr Locomotive: 70 studs Car 1: 54 studs Car 2: 54 studs Car 3: 67 studs Car 4: 68 studs Car 5: 68 studs

Thankfully not all of them are being scrapped. The Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania got one: Amtrak Electrics by Matt Csenge, on Flickr

What piece is that bench in your last picture? I've never seen that before, but it looks pretty handy.

Wow, this, and all your other Project M builds, is incredible! The color is really nice, makes it look even more realistic.

Wow, this is awesome! I was really looking forward to seeing what happened to Captain Jack Sparrow at the top of the escalator ;-). The only problem I see is that there's no catenary power for those electric trains!

Just to clarify, I wasn't trying to say never use XL, L, or M motors, but when I an i use the train motor. I still have a few builds that use XL motors because train motors don't fit my desired aesthetic standards, but when I can I prefer to use train motors.

These look really great! I like the mix of container sizes and types, it gives them some added realism. You should throw in a couple empties or single-stacked cars, since the railroads always get them full...

Wow, that thing looks like a beast! How big of wheels do you need? Would BBB medium drivers work? I can't remember offhand what their diameter is. As for the aesthetics of the trucks, I agree they're a bit blocky. Id recommend using bars or SNOTed plates or tiles and clips. The ones on my GP-9 and RDC are built this way (I'd post Flickr links but I'm on my phone).

I don't, I've never needed one for my MOCs. I'd guess a 2x2 dish attached to the side frame or the motor would simulate one nicely though.

Loos great! As for the motorizing questions: I've turned to using the PF train motors in most of my builds, after failed attempts at using M and XL motors due to problems with gearing and/or my inability to properly build Technic trucks. The train motor seems to have the best speed and pulling power (in my experience) and I've even had success powering large Lego drivers with them (my EP-3 and EF-1). Ive also previously had trouble powering BBB wheels, as there's no friction ring on them. I've seen other builders use o rings from their local hardware store, but that involves turning a groove for them in the BBB wheels which I don't have the tools to do. As for 9v vs. PF, I'd recommend PF because it doesnt limit where you can run the train: PF can run on 9v track but not vice versa. To sum up, I'd recommend PF train motors in the tender. You can still get quite a bit of detail with custom built side frames, and potentially even simulate a third axle. Hope this helps!

I use minifig hands/hooks with the 3mm tube for my pans. The stem of the hand will fit, it just needs a bit of pushing. I find that widening the end of the tube a bit helps the hand/hook slip in, and putting a bar in the hand or hook while pushing makes sure it doesn't break or get deformed (I hope that makes sense). As for the ice skate, a tile with clip (part 2555 or similar) would hold it to a bar pretty well, which would then attach to the minifig hands of your "A".

That'll be awesome at Brickworld. Be sure to take videos of it this time, Jim ;-) I should have 5 cars for my EP-3 at Brickworld (thanks to greenmtvince loaning me one), all, including the locomotive, over 54 studs long.

I was going to suggest the same part that ALCO did. The way you've currently got it the drive gear would hit any special trackwork (switches, diamonds, etc.) because they hang lower than the running surface of the wheels, and thus the rails. Otherwise I'd agree that it looks awesome! I really like the greebling on the boiler, especially the use of the rounded 1x1 tiles to get the door just right!

The only real trick to it is that the bumper part (the 1x2 tile on the 1x1 brick) is held in place by a vertical clip (4085) pinched in place by the hinges attached to the legs. And some of the ballast needs to be "dug" out for the 1x6 tiles making the back legs to sit properly. Another pic is here. I've also sent the design to Michael Gale for his L-Gauge website.

Definitely this guy from 7567: I think the classic space jacket is just too awesome. Edit: added the set # he's from.

True, I guess it depends on the builder's perspective. Some of the others posted in this thread may not stop a runaway car either. I haven't had a problem yet with cars rolling off the track, and while I have accidentally driven through the buffers and off the track while fiddling around in the yard at a show, I was pretty glad that the buffer broke away didn't damage the train.

It definitely wouldn't stop a train. I wanted to replicate the design of the Hayes bumper rather than create something to stop a runaway train. Like the others have mentioned, I'm not sure these are designed to stop a train at much more than minimal speed. I've seen much beefier ones (including this one) at passenger terminals and other places where stopping a runaway train is much more of a necessity.

Yes: Did this one a while ago. I'd be happy to share the design, though its pretty simple so you can probably figure most of it out by looking at the picture!