Eurobricks Citizen
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About CrispyBassist

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Champaign, IL
  • Interests
    Trains, city, town


  • Special Tags 1

Recent Profile Visitors

859 profile views
  1. How long is too long?

    THAT is a great point that I completely forgot about. My Budd RDC is log and low enough that it still hits the switch stands without the levers. If that becomes an issue, one of the aftermarket track manufacturers (can't remember which one) makes switches with the throws on the other side.
  2. How long is too long?

    Depends, too long for what? My longest loco is ~68 studs long (and properly scaled), and I know others who have longer. The longer it is, the more it will overhang going through curves (especially Lego r40's) but with the right amount of rotational freedom in the trucks it'll run just fine.
  3. need help with adding lights to my trains

    I don't usually order the kits, mainly just packs of lights, connecting wires, and the PF adapter as I need them for projects.
  4. need help with adding lights to my trains

    I'd suggest taking a look at Brickstuff lights. I've used them on every project I've done with lighting, and have never been disappointed. In my opinion, they're way better than Lego's lights for a number of reasons. The lights, wires, and connectors are much smaller and can fit in so many more places than the Lego ones can and will take up much less space inside the train. Hope this helps!
  5. FS 207 - Badoni / Breuer type IV

    I've seen a few people (*cough, cough* legoman666) on this forum use metal model railroad wheels and create custom track power pickups. If you could get your hands on some metal train wheels maybe you could use something similar to provide track power? Not sure how good you are with wiring and electronics, of course!
  6. How should I rebuild my bogies for bearings?

    If you're looking to rebuild the stock bearings then the second image is probably your best bet, unless you want to build your own sideframes. Like you said, just fit the bearing into the axle hole, stick the axle through the bearings, and add the wheels. Sometimes a drop of glue is needed to keep the wheels from falling off. There's more details in this thread, which you probably already saw. What sort of setup did you use with the bearings when you tested? I ask because the bearings perform better than everything I try, especially the standard Lego wheel holders. The friction is so little that my heavy 8x60+ stud passenger cars start to roll on what I thought was a flat surface! Practically everyone I talk to finds the same benefits.
  7. Type E Coupler for LEGO Trains

    Speaking of long trains, these would be great because unlike the magnets there's some play in a knuckle coupler instead of the cars being rigidly coupled. This would allow the locomotive to overcome the static friction of the cars one at a time, theoretically allowing it to start a longer train.
  8. Building BMR Freight cars

    BMR Tank Cars by Matt Csenge, on Flickr Just got around to taking pictures of my BMR tank cars. I definitely enjoyed the builds, especially after not building anything for a few months. I departed from the design slightly here and there, including a red 1x1 tile for the hazmat placard, chains (piece 92338) on the brake rigging, minifig axes for the journal boxes (though I'm not 100% sold on this), and three domes on the Esso rather than two (no particular reason here). I tried to number mine differently than the standard sticker set, but completely forgot in my excitement to sticket the Shell car. The redesigned trucks shown here look great, so I'll probably convert to those soon. Next up I'm planning two flat cars: Southern Pacific in dark red with a generic load, and Western Maryland in reddish brown. After that a couple more hoppers, a bunch of boxcars, and a special car or two all to make up a nice consist for my EF-1. As for the discussion on the bar clips for the trucks, I've found this method works real well without pieces popping off: NH Osgood-Bradley Lightweight Coach Truck by Matt Csenge, on Flickr The "bar holder" ends of the bar holders fit over the 1x2 plate with handle, making them much more secure. Substituting the 1x2 plate with handle and closed ends (48336) with the one with open ends (2540) would probably help even more. I run these on some of my passenger coaches and haven't had any problems with them falling off (then again, I haven't had any issues with the traditional bar clip method).
  9. [MOC] Miscellaneous Train Projects

    The top left are attached with 1x2 plates with clips on the short side (part 63868) and I build the sideframes out of SNOT plates with clips and bars. It also gives a slimmer profile to the sideframes, which I prefer. There's a bit more explanation on my Flickr.
  10. [MOC] Miscellaneous Train Projects

    These are looking very nice! You don't have to use the Lego motor frames with the PF motor, my GP-9 for example has built up sideframes for extra realism.
  11. Just an idea for switches

    Woah, these are neat. Any plans for producing them in the flesh (or plastic, as it were)? They would certainly bring a lot of options for layouts.
  12. LNER Class A4 4468 - MALLARD

    The door and ring are because the tender is a corridor tender, with a small hallway so that on long trips the relief crew to get from the cab of the locomotive to the train. The ring is a window to illuminate the passage. See this article for more info.
  13. Those even look a lot like MU couplers, which often have power transfer built in. I might have to try this too...
  14. For those that build with a digital program that might work. Not all of us do though, and tracking down all the parts strewn across the floor gets old quick. So does spending hours rebuilding the thing every day. Just because it's "supposed to be a kids toy" doesn't mean everyone sees it that way or wants their best builds smashed repeatedly. I've not had issues with this, and mine are all long, heavy 8-wide. I keep a layer of bubble wrap under them and on the sides, which actually might help support it by the low parts between the trucks.
  15. Lego Railway Signaling

    This is actually the opposite of how the real railroads would do it: flashing aspects always (in the US at least) are less restrictive than solid ones. This is so that if the flashing mechanism fails, the signal doesn't erroneously show a more permissive aspect. In other words, the flashing green would mean the next signal is clear and the solid green would mean the next signal is red. Granted, you're not trying to replicate the real railroads, but I thought I'd comment on the fail-safe nature of the system.