RockeTeK Posted March 15, 2011 (edited) Hi peeps, I plan to switch from 9V system to the new RC system soon. (see also in the Sell area!) My other favorite theme is Technic, and I managed to build several Train related MOCs with 100% Technic elements. The goal is to be able to incorporate my PF motors in the RC Trains (I am working on, don't laugh, Train Dragsters! ). Now my question is, what is the best set to start my RC Train era with? I am considering the Emerald Night and the Maersk Train, but also 7938 and 7939. All tips/suggestions appreciated. Cheers, RockeTeK Edited March 15, 2011 by RockeTeK Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JopieK Posted March 15, 2011 Well, any LEGO train is a good start of course, but... Don't try to get an RC train, you'd better get PF trains. The Emerald is a very nice looking train (I have 3 of them) but... It is not an easy train to start with. All trains you mention might be a good start. The Emerald runs on an XL motor so... But RC LEGO trains are the 7897 and 7898. They have an ugly receiver with batterypack integrated in their bottomplate. The new PF trains (that you call RC train, of course looking at the terms they are also RC trains) also have a more powerful motor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mpec82 Posted March 15, 2011 ...and I managed to build several Train related MOCs with 100% Technic elements... If it's possible i would like to see this MOCs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fuzzylegobricks Posted March 15, 2011 RC as in Power Functions? I think you may want to start on The new Cargo and passenger trains to see how it all works, then go to the maersk and emerald night. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RockeTeK Posted March 15, 2011 (edited) Sorry, my bad. I meant the PF trains (which you got already from the sets I mentioned) MOCs have been taken apart, but I will try to rebuild them Edited March 15, 2011 by RockeTeK Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toastie Posted March 15, 2011 I plan to switch from 9V system to the new RC system soon. (see also in the Sell area!) Hi RockeTeK, why, oh why on Earth would you switch from the Real Thing to all-plastic, all battery, all whatever "system" to. OK other than: It's cheaper, it's currently available (HUH! If TLC sees fit, they may just chage that RC/PF system to whatever "novel" system they see fit ...) Now letshava look around: There is Z-, N-, H0-, Garden-Scale, this scale, that scale, and whatnot. And all these trains run on powered tracks. Then there is PlayMobil ... powered tracks for the realy nice version ... and there is, well ... uhmm, oh yes: Duplo. Plastic track. I really don't want to be offensive: Just KEEP your 9V track. It would make me sad to loose another one ... Have fun, and forgive me my strong words, weren't meant that way!!! All the best, Thorsten Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lightningtiger Posted March 15, 2011 But everyone must now realise how much 9V straight track packs are worth, like $100 a pack (that's what a dealer has told me) so then RC plastic track is only a quarter of that....that's about 4 times the amount of track for the same price....do the math ! I will agree the 9V system is better than the first RC system (trying it on a MOC right now...ouch) but I have been told the PF gear is just as good as 9V. Advice to you 'RockeTeK' is the Emerald Night would be a must, no true Lego-maniac would be without one ! You could buy also 7938/7939 and MOC build from the parts......oh, yeah last advantage of RC....flexitrack ! Brick On ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
greenmtvince Posted March 15, 2011 (edited) Don't listen to Toastie. Power functions are a great system for anything other than big club layouts simply because they run trains longer than the 1-2 hours the battery is expected to last. I think the 7939 is one of the nicest lego train sets in quite some time. That aside my club tested out the locomotive, hitching up as many heavy cars as we could including metroliner coaches, club cars, and some heavy 7-wide boxcars. I think it still pulled about two dozen cars on the 9V track until it experienced slipping in the turns. I really need to get one before it supposedly disappears. I'm only a fan of the 7938 when it's modded to look more like the Bombardier Talent trains, like some members have done. The Emerald Night is a very fun build and impressive looking train. I don't know if you'll have as much fun with that as you would the cargo train. However, you may want to snap one up on the off chance that it is discontinued as the Maersk Diesel loco goes on sale. The best part about PF though is for the MOCer. You can build more prototypical powered bogies than you could with the 9V system. That is, if you can figure out where to hide everything. ^_^ Edited March 15, 2011 by greenmtvince Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hoeij Posted March 16, 2011 But everyone must now realise how much 9V straight track packs are worth, like $100 a pack (that's what a dealer has told me) so then RC plastic track is only a quarter of that....that's about 4 times the amount of track for the same price....do the math ! 9V straight track now costs about $5 per track piece. I wouldn't buy it at that price anymore (I stopped buying when it went over $3 per straight track). On the other hand, I'm not selling either. Only the straight track (not the curves or the switches) will fetch high prices. I don't see how I would save a lot of money by converting my 9V trains to PF (I have a lot of trains, and they'd all need a PF receiver and a battery box, and in many cases there's no easy way to add a battery box and PF receiver). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RockeTeK Posted March 16, 2011 Thanks for all suggestions I have decided to keep my 4565 set complete, unless someone really wants to pay for it The rest of the tracks are available to buy (see my post in the Sell section). Hopefully I get the opportunity to purchase the Emerald Night within 2 weeks... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toastie Posted March 16, 2011 Don't listen to Toastie. Now THAT hurt Guys, you are all absolutely right about the price. This is simply insane. But just to clarify things (again and again): In my small world, the PF and 9V systems are not "one or the other"; my dream is that PF and 9V merge to become the most powerful train control system TLC has dreamed up so far. All we need is powered track and power pickups for the PF stuff ... Oh well, I guess this discussion goes on forever ... which is good! All the best and keep on the discussions, Thorsten Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SavaTheAggie Posted March 17, 2011 (edited) Power Functions is an awesome train system and I plan to be using it for the foreseeable future. But I won't be selling my 9v system, either. I think 9v rails look better than plastic rails, so I might as well use the metal rails while they're still usable. I may be late to the party, but I think #7939 is the best starter train set. It may be more expensive, but there are some great parts and great designs in there. I wrote a review on it over at RAILBRICKS. http://www.railbricks.com/railblog-categories/power-functions/208-7939-cargo-train-mini-review-and-power-functions-trains Power functions are a great system for anything other than big club layouts simply because they run trains longer than the 1-2 hours the battery is expected to last. My batteries last 4-6 hours. And I'd like to see any other LEGO train system do what my Power Functions Allegheny can do: --Tony Edited March 17, 2011 by SavaTheAggie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bojan Pavsic Posted March 19, 2011 @Toastie Hm... something like this? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toastie Posted March 19, 2011 @Toastie Hm... something like this? Hi Bojan, oh my, oh my, YESSS, like THIS! Beautiful! Man this rocks. Is your solution with 9V/Gnd power pickup and C1/C2 power delivery to the motor??? That would be solve all my PF/RC/9V/whatever challenges. Thanks for sharing! All the best, Thorsten Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bojan Pavsic Posted March 19, 2011 (edited) @Toastie Yea, exactly. I put some isolation tape between the power pickups and the motor. Then I took a PF extension cable (50cm), cut it in half (so i gained 2 cables for 2 motors). Power pickups where then soldered to a Gretz Bridge (or 4 diodes - I took the 1A one) and the output to 5x 100 uF capacitors (i couldn't fit in 1 bigger one, so just soldered a couple smaller ones in parallel) and cable 9V/Gnd. The C1/C2 lines of the cable were soldered to the motor. The IR receiver has all 9V/Gnd lines on the input cable and both outputs connected, so it can power from the output. That's why you just plug the motor onto one of the outputs and it already works. I added the Gretz Bridge so it doesn't matter in which direction you put the train on or how you connect the power to the tracks... I don't know how exactly the IR receiver works, but i didn't want to feed it +/- the wrong way. Not sure if the capacitors are needed, but i just added them so the IR receiver wouldn't reset too fast if there would be a mometarily power shortage somewhere on the tracks. Edited March 19, 2011 by Bojan Pavsic Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hechristensen Posted November 10, 2011 ....or go back to 12v.... -No batteries, no los of line of sight, no headache in trying to hide that batt. box, best pulling power, remote controlled stop signals-points-etc, no ugly flexitrac...... Should I continue? hehe Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JopieK Posted November 10, 2011 ....or go back to 12v.... -No batteries, no los of line of sight, no headache in trying to hide that batt. box, best pulling power, remote controlled stop signals-points-etc, no ugly flexitrac...... Should I continue? hehe Well, but 12V wasn't that good either. You e.g. have a whole lot of cables running around and the driving capabilities of those train motors weren't that fantastic either. I remember that I needed to let the train run (even just the motor) for at least 15 minutes before it more or less worked well. Apart from that. The track is very vulnerable. Who doesn't have experience with the sleepers having some teeth (or all teeth) broken of? And that about the rail itself. They are too vulnerable to bring to shows etc. I like RC very much, you always have some car in a train that will be able to disguise the battery and if using the rechargeable one, you can drive for hours without charging. It would be nice to have a nice charing option, we heard rumors but are they real? I b.t.w. am controlling trains using both IR and radio. Students of mine are also very busy working that out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hechristensen Posted November 10, 2011 Well, but 12V wasn't that good either. You e.g. have a whole lot of cables running around and the driving capabilities of those train motors weren't that fantastic either. I remember that I needed to let the train run (even just the motor) for at least 15 minutes before it more or less worked well. Apart from that. The track is very vulnerable. Who doesn't have experience with the sleepers having some teeth (or all teeth) broken of? And that about the rail itself. They are too vulnerable to bring to shows etc. I like RC very much, you always have some car in a train that will be able to disguise the battery and if using the rechargeable one, you can drive for hours without charging. It would be nice to have a nice charing option, we heard rumors but are they real? I b.t.w. am controlling trains using both IR and radio. Students of mine are also very busy working that out. I agree on the track vulnerable issue, but in my opinion it is a huge step back. I believe Lego is somewhat about evolving/expanding. Before we had! (remote -stop and go signals, -points, -decouplers = trackgoodies) Now we dont have! And using a standard Lego IR-Tx to switch between (perhaps upcomming track goodies) would be a mess. "Was it channel 2 and then blue, or was it 1..-or 3 red!?? -Perhaps its just me but I miss the track-fuctionallity of the 12v system Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JopieK Posted November 10, 2011 no it is not just you, especially the signals and points were very nice and simple! But... the decouplers always were a dream as a kid, as an AFOL I had one and it didn't work well, so too bad... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Voodoo Hand Posted November 14, 2011 im openly no fan at all from the new RC Train line, it just holds nice things that you could use for 9 volt. But having it as train itself... No, my personal idea is that it is pretty offensive to some system that does not really add something in my eyes. And I am talking about how to get the train riding on it's tracks. The 9 volt system has a metal track, which the real trains also have. So why go back to a plastic track? And the RC possibility may be nice for TECHNIC sets, but I do not share the optimism people have about it being a good idea for trains. So i'd say, keep your trains and buy the new ones only for parts or as additional wagons. Perhaps find a way to convert it to the 9 volt system. Your trains are a lot more worth then you realized Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
