8110 - Unimog U400 General Discussion

[tripletschiee]

What a pity. They get the Unimog so early and then they fail to pick the right differential

But watching the pictures, I cannot see, where else they used the 4L differential. It seems as if there would be 3 identical 3L diffs.

Regards,

Gerhard

[allanp]

But watching the pictures, I cannot see, where else they used the 4L differential. It seems as if there would be 3 identical 3L diffs.

Regards,

Gerhard

Yes it does seem the wrong one was supplied to them. I bet that didn't roll along very well.

[Paul Boratko]

So then the center differential is in fact supposed to be the older styled 4L one...? I mean this makes perfect sense for that to work and these are still stock, in fact I just ordered a bunch of them last month...

So are the instructions wrong as well...? It looks like they call for the new styled 3L differential with a red bushing on one end....

[Nazgarot]

That picture, which I attached, is interessting: They mounted the crane at the front of the Unimog. Very nice, that this is possible. Obvioulsy the attachment-points are the same on both ends of the Mog.

BTW: for those, who are "disappointed" about the new portal-axle-part and its one-time-usability.

There are two 4WD-cars in the Technic-Lego history: 8880 and 8466. Both cars have special parts for their 4WD: 2999, 6540 and 873c01. For the 8880 the hubs even need special rims to use them. So IMHO it is more than OK, that Lego developed a new part for this special need.

Regards,

Gerhard

What I dislike about the new portal-axle-part is that it puts the piviot point so far from the rim. The last 4 WD part to come, 873c01, did this right by having the piviot point inside the rim. It givs a much more realistic stearing. Unfortunaly it was lacking in strength for powered models.

It would be no problem to design a similar, but stronger, solution when they designed the new part, witch leads me to wonder why they didn't... Is there more sets on its way, with new uses for it? I'm allready designing a full RC roadgrader (Have been for the last year or so), and I will take full advantage of this paert, by using it horizonaly to get a stiff tandem with reduction and a single strong mount to a single diff, giving it a free swinging tandem housing. The new tiers helped a lot, as they let me scale the model up with about 20 %. I had stopped the design at christmas last year do to lack of space for the parts i wanted to fit (if I where to keep it in scale), but with the new portal gearboxes and new tires I'm right back on track, and it will scale perfectly. Length 10 097 mm = 101 studs, with 2 463 mm = 25 stud, Tire diameter 1250 mm = 12 studs. And i can just fit the remote valves for the pneumatic under the hood!

So understand me right, even though I'm dissapointed about the portal gearboxes lacking a C-hub construction with piviot point inside the rim, I'm very happy that we get new parts to play around with. Maybe I'll even try to make modifiction to them... Who knows. ;)

AND, the torque tube are fantastic! They will fit stright in to a lot of MOCs!!

EDIT: I just remembered something. The 873c01 isn't only usable for stearing and power transfer to wheels. Combined with a couple of these:

It makes quite a good torque tube, but it's week, so it can't handle a lot of torque... Here's an example where it's used in a multilink suspention with a Watt linkage.

By exchanging the black 6 long axle with a 5,5 axel with stop, using a modern differential, and putting the stop inside the C brace around the diff, you can drop the multilink and only use a single torque tube in the front, and a Watts linkage or a panard bar in the rear end.

I've modified the old 8850 Rally Support Truck by using it this way, and it works like a charm. But it wont be able to handle the tourqe of heavier cars.

Edited June 12, 2011 by Nazgarot

[merman]

Sorry if this has been noted before, but it is clear where TLG got their inspiration from:

[Paul Boratko]

Nazgarot, how does a gear connect to the hub..? Just a regular axle...?

[Anio]

It looks like they call for the new styled 3L differential with a red bushing on one end...

There are 5L between the black liftarms.

So, on the instruction it may be 4L old diff + 1L red bush.

Edited June 12, 2011 by Anio

[Nazgarot]

Sorry if this has been noted before, but it is clear where TLG got their inspiration from:

Yes, just a pitty they used the ugliest mog around as a model, but I guess Merchedes had a say as well (They need to promote the new workhorse)... It should however be easy to convert it to one of these:

U2100

U1650 (the old work horse)

I accualy think the chassi looks more like the U2100, with it's high clearance around the wheels. And I think it even might be possible to modify it to resemble the U2100 with the parts already included, just add a 3 stud 3 armed stearingwheel as the star like has been suggested earlier.

-ED-

[Paul Boratko]

So is the 24 tooth side of the old style differential what is supposed to be in contact with the 16 tooth gears that travel to the engine...?

[Nazgarot]

Nazgarot, how does a gear connect to the hub..? Just a regular axle...?

I'm quite scertain it's a regular axle (haven't seen it in real life, so I can't guarantee it), but the important part is that we know it can be conected to a gear! The how of it is only important if you are going to modify or change the hub itself.

[Paul Boratko]

I'm quite scertain it's a regular axle (haven't seen it in real life, so I can't guarantee it), but the important part is that we know it can be conected to a gear! The how of it is only important if you are going to modify or change the hub itself.

I wasn't looking into changing or modify anything... I was just curious what connected that part because when it is snapped into place, I can't tell if there is room for a regular axle to pass through or not...

OK.. I rotated and blew up the picture in the link that was posted... I see where things went wrong now...

They must also have the new style differential flip-flopped, because the 24 tooth part of the correct differential will hit the sleeve, but it would ever so slightly clear if there is a bushing there...

I have to say that I am a little surprised that when the guys were building this that they didn't notice all of the pressure that was being applied by the new style differential on the axle above it....

Edited June 12, 2011 by Paul Boratko

[Nazgarot]

The stiffest yet arnt they :) .

Do you think thay will be stiffer/Stronger than these?

[tripletschiee]

I did a little photoshopping, an one can clear see the axlehole in the new part for the portal-axles:

Regards,

Gerhard

[Shasat Spacerider]

I did a little photoshopping, an one can clear see the axlehole in the new part for the portal-axles:

Regards,

Gerhard

Yess!!! Well, that's another mystery solved. I guess while building, you will have to slip the axle in from the outside.

How does the motor power the gray pneu cylinder? Is that the compressor?

[garson]

Yess!!! Well, that's another mystery solved. I guess while building, you will have to slip the axle in from the outside.

How does the motor power the gray pneu cylinder? Is that the compressor?

the motor power goes up thought the clutch extender pieces to 1x2 thin liftarms giving the cylinder 2 stud stroke and yeah the grey cylinder is the compressor

[Badger]

Do you think thay will be stiffer/Stronger than these?

Don't now for sure , i have that one and its solid in the tightest setting

[Shasat Spacerider]

the motor power goes up thought the clutch extender pieces to 1x2 thin liftarms giving the cylinder 2 stud stroke and yeah the grey cylinder is the compressor

Now I understand. But there's one thing that's not clear: does the compressor act the same way as the pneu pump? If so, then doesn't this here babe need an air tank?

Forgive me for sounding noobish, but I am a noob who has been playing with Technich for ten years. I just haven't owned any big sets. This WILL be my first.

[axd010 - MaxBrick]

Hello,

Does someone can post PARTS LIST please ?

Thanks a lot

[garson]

Now I understand. But there's one thing that's not clear: does the compressor act the same way as the pneu pump? If so, then doesn't this here babe need an air tank?

Forgive me for sounding noobish, but I am a noob who has been playing with Technich for ten years. I just haven't owned any big sets. This WILL be my first.

forgive my wording it is indeed a pump and not a compressor as it pumps directly to the cylinder and not a intermediate like an airtank

[Nazgarot]

Now I understand. But there's one thing that's not clear: does the compressor act the same way as the pneu pump? If so, then doesn't this here babe need an air tank?

Forgive me for sounding noobish, but I am a noob who has been playing with Technich for ten years. I just haven't owned any big sets. This WILL be my first.

If you have a powerfull enough compressor it shouldn't be a problem, and we are sure hoping it is. The old 8868 Air Tech Claw Rig was suffering from a weak compressor, and didn't have the smooth movement you get from a rig with an airtank. I expect to have to modify the compressor to use heavier equipment on this, or to use several cylinders at once, but as long as you only use the claw it shouldn't be a problem.

On 8868 the biggest problem was the double cylinders for turning the rig. They requiered a lot of air and the compressor was rather weak. There is also another problem you can get on this rig. If the compressor is running without you using any functions, it will build up preasure in the hoses, and the moment you open a valve it will "jump" (This was also known to happen with 8868, especially if you modified it to get a more powerfull compressor). An airtank should efficiently eliminate this problem, as the compressor would have to runn for a long time befor building enough preassure for this to happen. If you realy wannna be safe, just add another pump to the compressor, and controllit through a preassure switch (Ther is several MOCs of this around). That way you will always have air in abundance, and you will be shure to avoid "jumping" as the pressur never goes over the limit you have set. (An airtank in combination with this is of course even bether, as it will give the compressor much smoother operating conditions... Guess what I'm going to do...)

=D

@garson: A compressor is just a motorized pump. It can come with or with out a tank. Large compressor systems for Cold storage refrigeration units often come without an tank. They regulate pressure through changing speed, and can't have a "real tank" as that would slow down their reaction time (They may however have a small buffer).

Edited June 12, 2011 by Nazgarot

[DLuders]

@ axd010 - MaxBrick: Maxime, there is no Parts List yet because this set has not been officially released yet. Somebody will post an inventory (either of Peeron.com or Bricklink.com) in August 2011, once people can examine the parts list in the official instruction booklets.

[BrickWild]

The cab can also be built in red, yellow or possibly grey using parts from your own collection!

[axd010 - MaxBrick]

Thanks David.

[Anio]

Yeah, it may jump, but hoses may also go off with a very high pressure.

It seems that nothing prevent the pressure from being very high (for example, no clutch like the motorized 8049).

[Anio]

4L diff likely spotted :o

In the pack of parts :

(we see the 24t side)

On the model :