Pastajensen Posted March 6 Hello, long time lurker but never contributed anything. I been considering ideas to let my 12v trains also use the 9v/RC tracks and one of the problems was to make the 12v curved rails fit I guess other people have tried this to, but I realize by removing in total 4 stud I would get a snug fit and also a more convenient way to build track layouts. I also modified some straight tracks to be able to connect them with 12v rails switch points etc... I made as short video showing the process using cheap RC tracks and the next step would be using copper tape (and I need a extra set of 9v contact points) for the 9v system, not sure if I want to tape the 12v switch track but I guess I can test it out on a "broken" track. I thought that traction could be a problem but it seems to handle it well (test drive at the end of the video), there is some spinning when starting the train with "high" voltage but at soon as it moves it's coping quite well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Feuer Zug Posted March 6 Nicely done. I used a Dremel tool to remove the studs from the plastic track as well to add 12V compatibility. It makes it a lot easier to build a layout when I can overlay the 12V on the easy to connect plastic track. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pastajensen Posted March 6 Thanks, fun to hear that you have the same experience, it really does make the layout less fiddly, now I just need something for R56 rails Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Toastie Posted March 6 9 hours ago, Pastajensen said: I realize by removing in total 4 stud I would get a snug fit and also a more convenient way to build track layouts. I also modified some straight tracks to be able to connect them with 12v rails switch points etc... Nice one! 6 hours ago, Feuer Zug said: I used a Dremel tool to remove the studs from the plastic track as well Glad to read that you guys don't have any problems in making what TLG did not make (yet) to fit your needs . I did get quite some flak elsewhere when mentioning that my approach needed cutting, drilling and optionally sanding, oh my. Very nice approach with the 9V/RC/12V hybrid tracks! Regards, Thorsten Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pastajensen Posted March 7 Thanks, ultimately I want to have all system run on all tracks types. Right now I have a few loops in good old 12v and the main ballasted one is 9v. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
UltraViolet Posted March 15 I don't own a 12V train motor to test with (yet), but I'm wondering if using a slightly softer/squishier wheel tread material would help with the starting traction? I suspect copper tape will only make the slipperiness worse. The wheels in my collection are from the '80s, and the rubber first decayed to rock-hard, then disintegrated, but I don't recall them ever being very supple in the first place. I am planning to experiment with alternative materials, as I need replacements anyway. Does anyone here know what the going wisdom is for suitable replacements? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zephyr1934 Posted March 15 2 hours ago, UltraViolet said: Does anyone here know what the going wisdom is for suitable replacements? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LEGO Train 12 Volts Posted March 15 From the minute 0:17 to 0:19 ouch ...but then when I understood the final goal, the project is nice! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
