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42146 - Liebherr LR 13000 MODs and Improvements

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Did anyone model this in Studio yet? I want to extend it and need to know exactly how many truss, frame pieces and links I need to order extra.

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OK, other than changing out the cables, I think I'm done....

20231126_101722%20S%20-%20Copy-X4.jpg

20231126_102605%20S%20-%20Copy-X4.jpg

Total of 8 sections added, 6 to the boom and one to the jib, one to the gantry, plus numerous extensions to the bracing.

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2 hours ago, Lego Tom said:

OK, other than changing out the cables, I think I'm done....

Total of 8 sections added, 6 to the boom and one to the jib, one to the gantry, plus numerous extensions to the bracing.

Quite a bit of bend in your boom.

Also, funny how small the "huge sets" 42082 and 42055 in the background seem in comparison.

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54 minutes ago, howitzer said:

Quite a bit of bend in your boom.

Also, funny how small the "huge sets" 42082 and 42055 in the background seem in comparison.

Yup, I mentioned that in the other topic :grin:

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9 hours ago, Lego Tom said:

OK, other than changing out the cables, I think I'm done....

The boom size is definitely looking better but the derrick is still way too short compared to the real thing.  A significant improvement overall though.  As others have also mentioned, I would get the main boom strap attached to the top instead of the middle to stop the bending.  Also, personally I think the looks of the set could be improved significantly by replacing the two jib struts with new ones you build yourself.  The real ones are longer and much more slender and I think the way Lego did it using the back to back A frames is a big part of what makes the original set look kind of cartoonish.  Also adjusting the strap lengths to get the struts close to perpendicular to the boom and jib will make it look more realistic.

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12 hours ago, JaBaCaDaBra said:

but where to get this ?

1mm cord is available on Amazon. You can see a spool of it in the background of my pictures.

 

6 hours ago, mdemerchant said:

The boom size is definitely looking better but the derrick is still way too short compared to the real thing.  A significant improvement overall though.  As others have also mentioned, I would get the main boom strap attached to the top instead of the middle to stop the bending.  Also, personally I think the looks of the set could be improved significantly by replacing the two jib struts with new ones you build yourself.  The real ones are longer and much more slender and I think the way Lego did it using the back to back A frames is a big part of what makes the original set look kind of cartoonish.  Also adjusting the strap lengths to get the struts close to perpendicular to the boom and jib will make it look more realistic.

I will eventually move the boom support up when I add longer cabling but waiting for parts.

Edited by Lego Tom

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In order to sooth the fears of some, I 'borrowed' the needed parts (aka cannibalized) to extend and move the support to the end of the boom. To the critics credit, they were right... :pir-laugh:

20231127_061336%20WEB%20-%20Copy-X3.jpg

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@Lego Tom And how much did this "upgrade" cost in total? I've checked both BL and Lego and for 8 sections I would end up with over 200€ for parts (without the 100+ pins). And does the App calibration work with the added length of spool or does this render the model a giant paperweight?
 

Edited by R0Sch

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1 hour ago, R0Sch said:

@Lego Tom And how much did this "upgrade" cost in total? I've checked both BL and Lego and for 8 sections I would end up with over 200€ for parts (without the 100+ pins). And does the App calibration work with the added length of spool or does this render the model a giant paperweight?
 

The eight sections I added were around $150 US. I also bought parts 4211556, 6279023, 4142865 and 61300009 in suitable quantities. The rest of the parts I had on hand. With shipping, your estimate is probably a bit high but not much. You also need a spool of 1mm nylon thread as with the exception of the rear support, the stock thread will be too short for proper/satisfactory operation. With re-calibration, the crane works fine but the extra boom sections will reduce the lifting capacity somewhat. I fooled the app by running the hook to the top of it's limit, which was about 10 inches from the top, then pulled out axle on the twin drums and wound them until the hook was near the top of the boom and put the axle back in place. It seems to have worked out well. You will also need to add more counter balance as the extra boom will also effect the counter weight and make the crane more "tipsy" without it. I also added several pulleys/wheels in spots where the nylon cord ran over non-moving surfaces, It wasn't necessary, but I wanted to eliminate any possible friction I could.

Edited by Lego Tom

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20 minutes ago, Lego Tom said:

The eight sections I added were around $150 US. I also bought parts 4211556, 6279023, 4142865 and 61300009 in suitable quantities. The rest of the parts I had on hand. With shipping, your estimate is probably a bit high but not much. You also need a spool of 1mm nylon thread as with the exception of the rear support, the stock thread will be too short for proper/satisfactory operation. With re-calibration, the crane works fine but the extra boom sections will reduce the lifting capacity somewhat. I fooled the app by running the hook to the top of it's limit, which was about 10 inches from the top, then pulled out axle on the twin drums and wound them until the hook was near the top of the boom and put the axle back in place. It seems to have worked out well. You will also need to add more counter balance as the extra boom will also effect the counter weight and make the crane more "tipsy" without it. I also added several pulleys/wheels in spots where the nylon cord ran over non-moving surfaces, It wasn't necessary, but I wanted to eliminate any possible friction I could.

Ok, thanks! Well I calculated with twice the amount of counter weight bricks (those alone cost 100€). Can you add an amazon link to the nylon spool you bought. I can't seem to find a good enough match to the LEGO version (color and braiding type).

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2 hours ago, R0Sch said:

Ok, thanks! Well I calculated with twice the amount of counter weight bricks (those alone cost 100€). Can you add an amazon link to the nylon spool you bought. I can't seem to find a good enough match to the LEGO version (color and braiding type).

I didn't like the color of the cord I got from Amazon so I ordered some a seller on ebay. It still wasn't an exact match but looked better than the light grey from Amazon. Amazon sellers have black, light grey and silver but the sellers are out of dark grey. One seller had it in .8mm that might be OK to use.

For counterweight, I made my own (you can see them in some of the photos) out of stuff I had. Basically just some boxes that I filled with some lead.

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On 11/24/2023 at 6:18 PM, R0Sch said:

Did anyone model this in Studio yet? I want to extend it and need to know exactly how many truss, frame pieces and links I need to order extra.

I made the undercarriage (bag 1,2) in Studio for my B-model. Pawel (C3technic) from RB made the wires and completed the model in Studio. You can contact him on Insta or RB. Or in shorter words yes it is 100% digital available even with all ropes

Edited by Timorzelorzworz

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Thanks to the immense help from @Timorzelorzworz and @C3technic, I was finally able to do some digital tinkering on this stubble crane.
Here's a size comparison between the extended version by 10 truss-modules (inspired by @Lego Tom) and the original crane. The difference is day and night in regards to looks. In shown position the dimensions are height 1.7m vs. 1m. and width 1.6m vs. 1.2m.
42146_extended_vs_original.pnglr-13000-auslegersystem-metrisch-s2508.0

I added another 24 ballast weights in the available free space in front of the original, with just a few extra frame beams and pins. You could redistribute them more towards the rear, if not balanced enough, like it's shown in the diagrams above. Just make sure to bind them together with some rubber bands to prevent the stack from separating.
I might try to make a version with suspended ballast (detached from the superstructure and gliding on 4 ball rollers).
42146_extended.png42146_extension_ballast.png

And here is a part list for those who wish to know what would be needed to extend the crane like this. But it should be clear that it won't be cheap. 24x weight elements would cost over 100€ directly from BaP, but only half on BL. For some reason the 5x15 girder frame is still least expensive directly from BaP for 3.43€ each, the 7x15 girder on the other hand is cheaper on BL.
42146_extended_part_list.png

Edited by R0Sch
rubber bands tip for stacking higher balast weights

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On 11/24/2023 at 6:18 PM, R0Sch said:

Did anyone model this in Studio yet? I want to extend it and need to know exactly how many truss, frame pieces and links I need to order extra.

yep, finished yesterday with total 20h of work with modeling the missing new frame parts and making the spring rod adjustable but today came an update with all of the missing parts included :D

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1 hour ago, vanczakp said:

yep, finished yesterday with total 20h of work with modeling the missing new frame parts and making the spring rod adjustable but today came an update with all of the missing parts included :D

Yeah, I feel you. I almost did the same as you. Until someone pointed me in the right direction. Next time search on ldraw.org first before putting too much effort in making new parts yourself. You can also find the Crane there with all the strings and electric wiring included.
I also recommend you this place because usually official Studio part updates come way too late: https://www.philohome.com/studio/packs.htm

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2 hours ago, R0Sch said:

Yeah, I feel you. I almost did the same as you. Until someone pointed me in the right direction. Next time search on ldraw.org first before putting too much effort in making new parts yourself. You can also find the Crane there with all the strings and electric wiring included.
I also recommend you this place because usually official Studio part updates come way too late: https://www.philohome.com/studio/packs.htm

Thanks for the hint! Really appreciated! Fortunately it was a well spent time, I needed it to remember better about the whole design, the assemebly structure (groups) are for redesigning and according to my taste so I can mod it  

I plan to do a fully automatically self balancing version with working derrick boom and height adjusted floating Derrick ballast. If it works as planned I plan to make instruction of the rebuild and how to recreate the control system in the Powered up app. I have a friend who is one of the best hardware designer in my country and he checked the possibilities of the app and drives and hub and it can be done. Plan is to control the extented main boom and power jib like now but in the background the balancing will work automatically depending on the boom position and lifiting load. I have to lift the ballast with cable instead of pneumatics or actuator as there are no enoguh long of them…

then comes the 4 wheel drive and each side’s two motors gonna be controlled by their measured torque so no jump of the caterpillar. 
Planning to move the turntable drive to the top frame and supply from a top hub. Of course changing the 7 gear ratio to 20-30. 
 

Boom moving cable ratio to be changed from 5 to 7 or 9

 

I’ll keep you updated

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Posted (edited)

V0 of custom control in powered up is finished 98% and it took around 100h. It is optimized and nothing runs if not necessary (funny how easy to overload the ipad powered up and getting ticking movements only). Its gonna be available after a real programing expert checked and other optimization is done so after version 1 or 2 (in few weeks max)

This is the GUI of it

layout.jpg

0: Track control (tank like where x max or min means opposite 100% power driven tracks)
2: Turntable
3: Boom control (same layout like the ctrl+, but smooth as possible compared to control+ so stick at 5H50MIN end position is not full gas of main boom but around 10% and full gas of jib)
5: Lifiting cable
6: Plays sound when calibration done
9: Calibration start (end position search)
91: Turns 1 when calibration done. When it is done all six drive is unlocked and free to play. Booms and lifting cable only works between the working range.
93: Booms and lifting cable go back to the position where the crane was turned on after calibration is done.
99: Free play - lets you without calibration and without range control of cables.
20: Press when turntable is paralell with the tracks. This unlocks higher load limit.After pressing it gives you 20% more load limit when the turntable is at 0 or 180degrees, and goes down to original when it reaches 90 or 270 so the load and the limit becomes turntable rotation dependent. The footprint of the the track is not a square but a rectangle. Works exactly like in the control+ after this calibration.
21: Actual load in %
22: Play sound while overload constantly until load goes below than 100%.

The programming description will gives you instruction how to change the sticks to slidebars. Programming the range control and calibration would be optional but highly recommended if stick control is chosen because it is really hard to move your fingers only along the X or Y axis while the other remains 0. It will gives you instruction how to measure the cable length while creating the calibration sequence and while you try it first you have to measure the max rotation of each drives with full winching.

Optionally I can give you instructions how to change the tank like control to match it with the real life like so xmin or xmax means 50% of power and opposite rotation of tracks.

Next is to eleminate those ranges where the drives are not strong enough to drive the turntable and especially the tracks so doing some kind of saturation of the sticks/sliders.

 

Edited by vanczakp
spelling

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17 hours ago, Lego Tom said:

Apple only or Android as well?

OS independent. You will have to do the programing based on a written guide with full of pictures and megasized picture about the whole program segment.

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Hi all,

I have decreased the play of the turntable today together with the turntable gear ratio update. Originaly it was 1/35. Now it is 1/63. For decreasing the play you will need 2pcs of 4L axle. Ratio change: 1pc 8T gear and 2pcs 24T gears.

2nd: gear update with 25years old parts :D
And here is where LEGO failed. 3L axle was used insted of 4L, see how big is the play

3: change the brown 3L axles to 4L (you can see the black axle sitting in the yellow link)

4: Elemination of top side play due to way too big clearance

Solution: 4-5 layer duct tape each side:

These steps reduced the total play of turntable by 50%. 

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Nice MODs, though the original instructions shows 4M axles being used.

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