HorcikDesigns

[MOC] EXP.SUV 2 - HD KUMAQ - new video!

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Well, things wen wild when I finished this model two weeks before, and model that was planned to be left as surprise on planned AFOL event this year, is online now, even with instructions. 
So, what do we have here?

INSTRUCTIONS!
https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-138418/Horcikdesigns/suv-offroader-hd-kumaq-sport/#comments
(soon enough to catch readers attention, sorry for advertising, but take it as a FAQ answer)

 

Spoiler

 

 

I am sure some of you remember one of my older MOCs, EXP.SUV. It was my fyvourite car because it was my first MOC where I used planetary reduction wheel HUBs. However, this year it was 3 years old, and I decieded that it's lifecycle is over, and it needs and ancestor, like a real car. Bigger, better, badder.

https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-47007/Horcikdesigns/pdf-expsuv-offroader/#details
 

So I grabbed two knockoff buggymotors (I will explain later why the original ones were not an option here), one servo, some gray bricks (and planetary HUBs), and started. In October last year I had basic chassis with sketch of body and main design elements.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CjVHEtFrsaa/

https://www.instagram.com/p/CjhcrxNoVb3/

In december, after first succesful try to convert the RC control system of the car from S-brick to Radiolink, I was able to wish all my IG followers merry christmas, and spend the after christmas holiday soldering thicker cables to that knockoff motors. 3S LiPo and RC ESC gave them too much power, that the original cables were really hot and the connectors that were once two, melted together. oops. Not an option for the original 5292.
Change of servomotor to Geekservo for use with RC reciever was nice surprise, as it was also almost 1:1 swap, and I had some more space under the hood (unused til today, unfortunately). Yes, the hood scoop is also 3D printed and my own design (inspired by similar LEGO part).

https://www.instagram.com/p/CmXVzZYsgmi/

index.php?action=dlattach;attach=290726;

index.php?action=dlattach;attach=290728;

You can see the 3D printed steering wheel.

In mid January I realized, that 2 buggymotors might be too dangerous for wide public to drive (overheating), and started to develop lighter version with 2 L motors (do not worry, the 2 buggymotors version is still my favourite and alive). Thank to enough space in the chassis the motor-swap was easy and quick (no fluids leaked :D) (I only had to tear the car chassis to two parts). 
Having two almost identical cars next to each other opened many new possiblitities. I experimented with colour, found out that I might have to rebuild the first car because of some chassis design imperfections (stronger and lighter the new version is), and so on. I recommend trying this R&D technique to everyone.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CncrYaTrjEB/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
 

 

... And then it finally came. I uploaded the first photos of the first car. 

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Some people said it was too dark, so I had to turn on "atelier" lights on.

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Spoiler

Do you see dat a...  the 5th door? I am still not sure whether use of the tr-red parts is good choice, as I aimed for more Skoda Kodiaq or Hyundai Tucson type of look (not sure which I like more), but I desparately wanted to use these parts on any MOC...

tucson_035.jpg

2021-Skoda-Kodiaq-Tail-light.jpg

 

Watch the next photo in private and after 22:00 only, it is literarly "under the skirt" type of photo. You can see that the rear diff is locked, and some very wierd part in the front of the car. 
 

Spoiler

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Yes, it is 3D printed, and my own design. It braces the front axle, and improves the offroading cvapabilities a little. Yes, the CV joint had to be shortened by 1 stud, but do not worry, it was not an original part (it was not necessary to cut it, but this slightly improved the friction, I hope).

You can find the print files for this and some other parts used on this car on the link below. I would really appreciate if you liked those you like (it will help me one day to hopefully get free spool of filament) :D

https://www.printables.com/model/390638-liftarm-7l-with-4-axle-holes-wedged-design-element

(the 3D printed part could be replaced with 5L half liftarm with axleholes ends, and it will work as well)


Then I took this car out, and found out that 2 speed gearbox might come in handy, it is brutally fast. One buggymotor and 3S LiPo might be enough... I will consider changing the gear ratio.

Quick video footage as an teaser: https://www.instagram.com/p/Cn9RnIKsh-5/

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Video from that trip will be shared in next few weeks. I am still thinking about modifying the door section (or sidewalls) - I used some knock off panels in LBG (original are nonsense for me to be used in offroad car), but I start to think that there should be cleaner solution...

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For the light "sport" version I was considering two colours  - sexy red (I almost finished the model in that colour, but decided to change it f)-or poisonous and bright lime. Well, with the releas of Sian and Pullback Mustang, it was after a week of tinkering on BL, clear, that I have to make small investment in new parts. 
And the result?

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Spoiler

 

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(the 3D printed part could be replaced with 5L half liftarm with axleholes ends, and it will work as well)

 

 

 

And, for this car have I prepared INSTRUCTIONS for all who would like to build it for themselves!

https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-138418/Horcikdesigns/suv-offroader-hd-kumaq-sport/#comments

Building guide for Control+ version will mosst probably be added as a bonus to the original guide, and instructions for the "beast" will be finished and released later this year.

And why KUMAQ? Well, it is inspired by Japanese (or generally asian) cars, and Skoda Kodiaq. Hope this word does not mean anything else. :D 

 

Edited by HorcikDesigns

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Body design is top-level for me, as before!:thumbup:

Would like to see it in action!

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16 minutes ago, rm8 said:

Body design is top-level for me, as before!:thumbup:

Would like to see it in action!

Thank you very much! 

There is link to IG reel with quick preview of the RC version, somewhere in spoilers it this thread, full video of RC version is being prepared and will be uploaded in a week or so. 

I am wondering if I can fit diflock to the rear axle like on your Hilux, but with planetary gears. Width is very limiting me here, but I like this type of challenges. 

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Best of all I love the front angry view and how you applied those 3*2*11 lime panels!

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Cool model! I really like the design of the suspension and drivetrain, with two buggy motors geared slightly up, it should indeed be flying :) I like the rear part of the drivetrain going between the two motors (in case of the L motor version), but I never dared to use such a solution because the driveshaft may be rubbing the motors as the rear axle moves a bit left-right while it articulates. Or did you manage to eliminate sideways movement of the rear axle? Your rear panhard rod seems to be pretty optimally placed for that. Have you seen any wear on the driveshaft connectors / edges of the motors?

I like the overall shape, but the bodywork itself is quite messy for my taste, full of uneven surfaces and non-connecting edges. It can be seen on the photos that many panels on the body just kept moving around as you made the photos. Wouldn't a simple 11x3 curved panel work for the sides for example?

The rim/tire combo looks especially great. Are the rims custom printed? What size are the tires? Something around 80mm? Does that work with standard rims as well? Any link for that?

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Well done again @HorcikDesigns.Your SUV are great, and have a perfect stance with just the right proportions. I really like the Lime version, and those 74mm tires work great here.

As @rm8, mentioned, the body work is top notch. I specifically like the long 11x3 panels used as rocker panels on each side. Also, this SUV, as well as the EXP have a perfect gentle upward slope on the beltline with a gentle downward slope of the roof. This gives both cars a great look.

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@gyenesvi - Thank you! - It is very fast, indeed. (there is short video on my IG). 

Well, I have not considered the driveshaft wobble as major issue, as there are no large angle deviations. I checked it now again, and it slightly rubs the L motor casing only in case the axle is almost fully compressed on one side. As this occurs only when traversing long slope, or as dynamic effect of going over obstacles (and the driveshaft as plastic one is flexible, it is not a major issue IMHO. Using only axle without the connectors that increase torsional rigidity might help too. Wear is not observed, as the car with L motors has only less than 50 meters on it's (fictional) odometer.
I agree on the slight messines of the body. but on the other hand, It gives the car the needed personality, IMO. The gray car had older system of panel fixtures while being photographed, today it is iproved yet and will be present in future photos of the MOC.
The rims are my own design (inspired by 42110 rims, obviously, in order to look at least little bit LEGO-like), the tires were found on Aliexpress some time before. They have the dimension marked on their side - 7 8/2 5 R /5.5 (76mm OD), I think they come from this link (hidden in spoiler below)

They work good enough with the original LEGO rim (43mm), but they look much better on the printed ones, that have slightly simplier internal structure.


@Thirdwigg - Thanks! The 74mm tires was probably the missing link in LEGO tire system. They are great for offoaders in this scale.
Well, I try to follow some design rules (not all, as @gyenesvi mentioned - the non-connecting or unaligned lines for example). The lime starts to grow on me too the more I look at it. I like the gray -orange colour combo, but it starts feeling littlebit boring for few last days... 

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29 minutes ago, HorcikDesigns said:

@Daniel-99 Thank you! video of the RC version is still only in form of short IG reel (mentioned above and also below), but longer video of driving performance is being prepared. detail photo of intern al wire-mess is hdden in spoilers in original post.
 

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cn9RnIKsh-5/

I checked all hidden text and photos, I love the way you were able to fit all RC stuff in such scale! Unlikely I have no Instagram account, so I will wait for a longer video of youtube \ Eurobricks \ Rebrickable. 

P.S. I am using Brushless motors in my latest MOCs (I made a post a week ago) as well ;-) In combination with planetary hubs they bring Lego cars to the whole new level!

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@Daniel-99 I also considered using Bl motors in rhia MOC, but as the grars and axles are still plastic (without increased thermal ans wear resistance), it was not a way for me. Whats more, rules of the even I plan to attend with this MOC do not allow "non LEGO-like motors".

But for some future peojects, I definitely would like to push the boundaries of my experience with this type of motors, but I am concerned with overheating. 

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16 hours ago, HorcikDesigns said:

the tires were found on Aliexpress some time before

Thanks for the link, looks good, and indeed I agree that 75mm tires are very welcome as this scale is really good for lego RC cars, and I was just looking for something in this scale but more fit for street cars / SUVs than the buggy tires.

17 hours ago, HorcikDesigns said:

Using only axle without the connectors that increase torsional rigidity might help too.

That's what I experiment with too!

BTW, what is the central L motor doing? Is that for the winch?

And do I see it right that the front axle has a positive caster? Is it offset half a stud both at the top and the bottom (in opposite directions) to get the center correctly positioned right on the stud grid?

I see that you cut the new CV joint to 2L axle at the rear :) I miss that part so much from the official lineup.. Thought that section could be built with the 3L one as well I guess.

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@gyenesvi@gyenesvi the central L motor is used as winch motor in my 2buggymotor version. However, in order to keep things simple, winch in instructions version is powered by m motor placed one stud higher (it would not fit to the 2Lmotor version.

Yes, the front axle has pisitive caster angle. When the susp. arm is compressed it slightly bends the axle (in theory, but thanks to lot of play in the parts it does not affext the performance a lot). 

I think I mentioned the modified CV joint (not origial LEGO part) . It is because of increasing length of the driveshaft in order to decrease angle when the rear axle is compressed, thus helping with the issue with rubbing against the motors. However, it is totally OK to use the original part. 

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To all who is interested - here is video of this bunch of plastic bricks balancing on the edge of meltdown. :D (luckily, it was quite cold that day)
I would like to make another video in future, when the weather will be better.

 

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Hi, quick update here. 

New 3d printed custom fenders, rear lights all lights working with RC control, and new colourscheme. Also did some minor changes under the hood and still tinkering about the rear diff lock. 

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