Tips Needed for a new MOC

[storms26]

As the official leader of the "Terrible Builders" club, which only has one member (me), I've decided to put in some effort to create a decent-looking train MOC.

I've been in the hobby for a while now, and I've stuck only to buying sets from Lego and using instructions from the masters, but I want to create a train-related MOC that I can call my own. 

I'm leaning towards a smaller steam locomotive (8-wide, preferably), and since I'm sort of a newbie at this sort of thing, I'd like some tips on getting started and some technics on building one of these. The smallest I'd like to go is probably 2-6-0, but I'd enjoy building a 2-8-0 or a sort of larger articulated engine, like an Allegheny (which I would definitely love, but would be a pain to build). Although my favorite arrangement type is Northern, 4-8-4, I've wanted to build Chessie T-1 #2101 for over ten years but I recently made a GS4, so I don't want a similar locomotive so soon. 

It doesn't have to run on PF but it would be better for me if it is, but I've had bad luck trying to push from a tender, and I don't know a good way to power from the engine.

All help is appreciated, but not required. Thanks in advance!

[ALCO]

I like building steamers that are driven from the locomotive. Definitely more challenging but doable. Easiest tip for a beginner would be to study the drive-line of the Emerald Night, while not perfect is a great place to start. I think the most challenging is the rods on the side of the driver wheels and the cylinders. I use the tender for what it is supposed to be used for...a tender. Meaning that is where I keep the battery. Anyway, decide on what you want and focus on that. I find that studying photos of a real locomotive to model to be very helpful.

Anyway, any questions you have just ask!

[zephyr1934]

I'd suggest starting with an 0-6-0, just so that you can focus on getting the mechanics of the drivers to work. I'd suggest Cale's solution with a half technic pin and a pair of rods for the crosshead, e.g., as was used in this mod of the lone ranger train.

There are lots of challenges with steamers. The tight lego curves are an obvious one (so your wheel bases can't be too long and if your locomotive is of any significant size it will hang over the side of the curve (to the outside on the ends if the wheels are fixed in the middle or inside in the middle if the wheels are fixed to the end). You are probably wise to then move to n-n-0 next so that you only have to worry about two points of contact on the rails. With three points of contact (n-n-n) even a small bump in the rails could give the locomotive inspiration to derail or get stuck in a valley (go over a bump, the middle wheels lift the flange of the front wheels above the track and they come back down off of the rails).

No matter what size locomotive you make, you should probably just build up the mechanicals first to make sure it functions satisfactorily, also include the outline of the tender to make sure there are no clearance problems on curves.

[Duq]

Yup, totally agree with Zephyr. In short it's the old 'learn to walk before you try to run'; start small. My first steam engine was a 2-4-0. Like you I had dreams of these magnificent steam engines I was going to build but then a competition came along for a 2-4-0 and I thought I'd just give it a go. I enjoyed building the little steamer (too small for its own propulsion so it's pushed by a motorised carriage) but it still is a reliable fun runner on layouts.

BR70 rear by Duq, on Flickr

[dr_spock]

I would suggest mocking up the layout of the wheet sets first and test pushing by hand through straights, curves, and switches to determine if your design runs fine.  If you feel a lot of friction, have derailments, etc. then it's modify and repeat.

[Railfan9]

i agree with a Zephyr1934 about trying your hand at building an 0-6-0 as a start. 

[storms26]

So, after taking advice from your replies, I went ahead and tried to build an 0-6-0.

But then it became a 2-6-0.

Then a 4-6-0.

Now, before looking at the pictures, I already know that I'm far below average compared to the people on this forum, but I at least tried my best. Tips to help are greatly appreciated.

Link to the pictures on my Flickr

Now, for the base of the engine, I uses long technic beams and a few 2x2 swivel plates to achieve a small amount of movement in the pilot wheels, but it somehow works like a charm. It's simple enough for me and it didn't use too many parts.

For the boiler of the engine, I used arch pieces that I stole off of my Expedition spaceship (Which was broken and was beyond rebuildable, parts were lost), and I some smaller 1x2x4 arch pieces to cover the boiler section near the cab. 

For the tender, I used an almost Emerald Night design and built it up using a couple of technic plates and 2 wide black plates. I then made sure there was space for the receiver and battery box inside, and locked down the wires with some 2x4s, clearing the mess inside of the tender. On top, I smoothened it out with some tiles, left the top of the receiver visible for good connection, and used the power button technique from the last few city train sets. 

For such a small engine, it feels like the weight it perfect (And it is VERY heavy for its size) and it somehow hums around my layout even carrying up to ten cars. I originally meant for it to carry maybe a couple passenger cars, to just be a shunter, but it performs like it was made to be an excursion engine. I haven't found any issues with it, but I still feel like it is lacking in it's design and it's overall appeal.

In a nutshell, I think that it certainly is enough for me to consider it a success, but I don't think I'd see anything as blocky or as low-quality at a show or anything. Like I said, I've never been a good MOC maker, so I'd like as much help as I can get. Thanks!

 

P.S. I purposely did not go into too much detail with the driving rods, due to having a limited supply of parts, which did not include any that would have helped make them look better, so I just made cylinders for decoration.

 

Edited February 27, 2017 by storms26

[zephyr1934]

46 minutes ago, storms26 said:

In a nutshell, I think that it certainly is enough for me to consider it a success, but I don't think I'd see anything as blocky or as low-quality at a show or anything. Like I said, I've never been a good MOC maker, so I'd like as much help as I can get. Thanks!

 

P.S. I purposely did not go into too much detail with the driving rods, due to having a limited supply of parts, which did not include any that would have helped make them look better, so I just made cylinders for decoration.

 

Looking good so far (and I used that same color scheme for my first train MOC too). To my eye, the boiler has the feel of a fireless cooker. Your 4-6-0 design hits all of the boxes of an 0-6-0. Getting the connecting rods working well between the cylinder and wheels is a real challenge. Then getting a pilot truck to work well with the cylinders in place is a nightmare. Without the connecting rods your cylinders can pivot with the pilot wheels without problems. Remember who you are building this for, i.e., yourself. If you are happy with it so far then you know. If you look at it and say to yourself, "I wish it ..." then you also know and it is time to continue tinkering. Often it is a lot easier to edit a MOC to make it better than it is to build something completely new. So now let the ideas percolate (and keep your eyes open for good ideas in other MOCs that appeal to you). Keep it up.

[BurkusCircus]

You know storm, there was a Santa Fe passenger train that looks a fair bit like your moc called the Blue Goose:

https://www.pinterest.com/heymistergeo/1937-santa-fe-blue-goose/

Honestly one of the cooler looking streamliners out there...