storms26

Eurobricks Vassals
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About storms26

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  1. TBRR with full BrickTracks loops

    Great layout! Also, how do you get your engines to run so quickly pulling all that weight? I know the cars are light, but with that many, I can't figure out how they are so fast...
  2. It's multitrack drifting!

    Was inspired by this post, and because determined to try something similar to this, but had only an auxiliary tender to deal with, so I had to go the bootleg way! https://flic.kr/p/22KY92G
  3. Increasing Speed

    I have pushed them and I feel barely any resistance. Tomorrow I'll buy brand new batteries to see if that was the issue, even though the ones I had in it weren't all too old. I'll also try to take a few videos.
  4. Increasing Speed

    When running without the engine, it goes a bit faster but not too much. I've tried swapping the motors with every motor I have (around 15) and I'm using the best I have. I frequently check the wheel spacing and such on the engine to relieve friction but the difference is slight. ColletArrow: all four motors run in the same direction, I have two on each channel since I only have one switch cable. Stash2Sixx: See the above comment, and I only have one reverser switch so I ditched it. I have the front motor in each tender hooked up to red, and the rear two hooked to blue, on the same channel. I'll run both at the same notch and it'll be super sluggish.
  5. Increasing Speed

    The four motors are split into two pairs, each with their own battery box and receiver. I have the light grey pins installed, and the wheels on the engine are loose and have a good amount of space to move around.
  6. Increasing Speed

    When running without the engine, it goes a bit faster but not too much. I've tried swapping the motors with every motor I have (around 15) and I'm using the best I have. I frequently check the wheel spacing and such on the engine to relieve friction but the difference is slight. ColletArrow: all four motors run in the same direction, I have two on each channel since I only have one switch cable.
  7. Increasing Speed

    I use four standard PF motors that you would find in the standard city sets, and I don't know what you mean by gearing ratio.
  8. Increasing Speed

    This has been a recurring issue for me, and I tried fixing it myself but couldn't. On my Daylight, the engine is pushed by a tender with two motors, and at full speed, it still crawls. I tried starting out slow then increasing speed but nothing works. On my T-1, the engine is pushed by two tenders, two motors each, total of four, and it is still extremely slow. I even tried adding and removing weight and nothing helps to increase speed. I see videos of larger engines and even the same model Daylight from Sava just rocketing around layouts using the same setup, but my results are just poor. So, I'd like to ask if there are any tips for fixing this issue.
  9. Reading T-1 #2101, The Chessie Steam Special

    Tender already finished as of now! (Pictures posted, too.) I'll try to submit ASAP.
  10. As my first IRL creation being shared on this site, I wanted it to be my best. As far as I can remember, I've loved this engine as well as its roster all my life. It ran in my state, showed up in my favorite railroading VCR series, and had a great design as well as a great story. A couple years back, I found out where the engine was located, so we flew to Baltimore to visit it. Upon seeing it, I quickly realized how poor it has been taken care of and how bad of a condition it is in. Ever since, I've wanted to make a Lego model of it that was actually decent. I've made countless models in the past, but they were always so blocky and small. Finally, I feel like what I've made is sufficient enough to be worthy of posting. Some info about the real engine: Reading 2101 is a 4-8-4 "Northern" type steam locomotive constructed in 1945 for use by the Reading Company as a member of the T1 class. Constructed from an earlier 2-8-0 locomotive built in 1923, the 2101 handled heavy coal train traffic for the Reading until being retired in 1959. Withheld from scrapping, the 2101 served as emergency backup power for the three other T1 locomotives serving the Reading's "Iron Horse Rambler" excursions until being sold for scrap in 1964. In 1975, the locomotive was restored to operation from scrapyard condition in an emergency 30-day overhaul after being selected to pull the first eastern portion of the American Freedom Train. When the bicentennial excursions were finished, the engine was used to pull the Chessie Steam Special in honor of the anniversary of the Baltimore & Ohio Railroad. However, after being involved in a roundhouse fire in 1979, the 2101 was traded to the B&O Railroad Museum in exchange for the Chesapeake & Ohio 614. Today the locomotive remains on display in its American Freedom Train paint scheme. From the front: I'm not too happy with the way the lower side of the boiler curves but I'm okay with it. I already know the color of the engine should be dark blue instead of black, but I have only a couple pieces in that color, and it looks good either way. I wish I could do better with the headlight, but I tried so many options that didn't work. The wheel set for the engine is based off of Tony Sava's GS-4, but it's modified to an extent. The model is to scale with the Daylight and it's passenger cars, so I won't have to worry about it looking out of place. From the rear: I tried many alternatives for the cab windows, depending on the parts I had. This was the best option by far, albeit looking goofy. I didn't want to do any extreme detailing on the top of the engine, but I did the essential shapes. The tender from the front: I tried to get some subtle detailing in, like coal and the rails, but I didn't want to be extreme. The top of the front just barely clears the roof of the engine's cab, so it will be fine going around my R104's. I tried my best with the curve with the yellow, but this was the best I could get. The tender from the rear: Tried to get the white part at the bottom of the ladders to look at least a little bit proper, I personally don't think it looks bad, but it doesn't look too great either. The two together: It looks 10x better in person than in pictures. I think that it is going to be a showpiece on my layout, for sure. Overall, I'm EXTREMELY happy with what I've gotten done so far. There's much to do still, but I'm open for suggestions. Thanks!
  11. 2017 Lego Trains

    Honestly I hope that train spotted in the back isn't a real set. It just looks too similar to the red HST we got a few years ago. In my opinion, the last thing we should get after waiting so long should be a remake, not to mention the yellow cargo engine was remade into the Heavy Haul engine.
  12. My Bad Experience with ME Models Curves

    When I was building the curves I used a flashlight to make sure that I was building them correctly, so that isn't the issue. I found a photo from Holger that shows how to do the spacing correctly, by placing a 2x8 plate in between the ties.
  13. My Bad Experience with ME Models Curves

    Thank you all for the replies. I guess I will go ahead and glue them all, but coincidentally, the closest Ace to me was permantly shut down... better try Wal-Mart ;) It will probably take me around a week and a half since I have a busy April ahead of me so I'll try to keep this post updated when finished.
  14. About four days ago, my order of a full loop of R104 and R88 curves arrived, and I couldn't be any happier. I had already torn the track off of my layout in advance for their arrival. I built them all in one night, and the building process was not too fun. It started out with it bring nice until I got a full piece of track together and pieces started to pop off. That issue alone extended the build time by about an hour or so. I had finally gotten them all built, and they were ready to be installed. The next day, I place them on the layout, and they start to pop again and again until I had to rebuild about half of the curves until they were all together. I took a step back and I was finally glad my track was complete. I quickly set up a train for both the inner track and outer track, my custom ten-wheeler with eight cars and my Daylight with four. I set them both at a speed that wasn't too slow nor was it too fast. They were fine until it got all the way around the layout, where the tracks started to break randomly. I fixed it in hope that it wouldn't happen again. Then another piece broke, then another, then it just got worse. I had gotten to the ninth time of the track disassembling itself, and my Daylight came around the corner at a fast speed and track let loose and the engine, tender, and two cars came barreling off of the layout, leaving me with a bucket of parts to end the night with. Today, I had everything put back together, including the track, and was ready to run everything once again. The track continued to break and kept sounding like the pieces weren't all connected, to I had assembled the track using a rubber mallet to secure them. It got to the point where an entire quarter of the layout would shift and be destroyed as the train went over the curves, and that's where I had enough of it and quit instantly. My question is, what is the purpose of making the curves have to be assembled instead of being one solid piece? I get it there are some cool ideas using them out there but if Lego makes it one piece, it should be logical to use the same good idea and make the custom rails one piece. I am EXTREMELY displeased with the quality of the curves and I feel like I didn't get what I paid for, after seeing such positive reviews on them. I almost resorted to breaking the cardinal rule of Lego and gluing them, but I feel that I would regret it. If anyone has a fix to any of these issues, please, please, please tell me about it so that I can run a train without it crashing. (Sorry for such a long rant)
  15. Tips Needed for a new MOC

    So, after taking advice from your replies, I went ahead and tried to build an 0-6-0. But then it became a 2-6-0. Then a 4-6-0. Now, before looking at the pictures, I already know that I'm far below average compared to the people on this forum, but I at least tried my best. Tips to help are greatly appreciated. Link to the pictures on my Flickr Now, for the base of the engine, I uses long technic beams and a few 2x2 swivel plates to achieve a small amount of movement in the pilot wheels, but it somehow works like a charm. It's simple enough for me and it didn't use too many parts. For the boiler of the engine, I used arch pieces that I stole off of my Expedition spaceship (Which was broken and was beyond rebuildable, parts were lost), and I some smaller 1x2x4 arch pieces to cover the boiler section near the cab. For the tender, I used an almost Emerald Night design and built it up using a couple of technic plates and 2 wide black plates. I then made sure there was space for the receiver and battery box inside, and locked down the wires with some 2x4s, clearing the mess inside of the tender. On top, I smoothened it out with some tiles, left the top of the receiver visible for good connection, and used the power button technique from the last few city train sets. For such a small engine, it feels like the weight it perfect (And it is VERY heavy for its size) and it somehow hums around my layout even carrying up to ten cars. I originally meant for it to carry maybe a couple passenger cars, to just be a shunter, but it performs like it was made to be an excursion engine. I haven't found any issues with it, but I still feel like it is lacking in it's design and it's overall appeal. In a nutshell, I think that it certainly is enough for me to consider it a success, but I don't think I'd see anything as blocky or as low-quality at a show or anything. Like I said, I've never been a good MOC maker, so I'd like as much help as I can get. Thanks! P.S. I purposely did not go into too much detail with the driving rods, due to having a limited supply of parts, which did not include any that would have helped make them look better, so I just made cylinders for decoration.