10027 train shed.

[talos]

Good stuff. How much have u spent on parts now?

I added it up, and its taken 11 separate orders of parts, and I think I have everything now. Its cost me $152. I found the two minifigs which came to an additional $9, so grand total cost is $161. I am guessing about $23 of the total was just for shipping the orders to me. That part adds up when you have to go to over 10 different sellers, for these older, harder to find parts.

I have used some of my existing parts, but that isn't that much more to add. I used my existing track sections and some dark bluish gray bits. I didn't have much red on hand so that was a big part of the cost.

edit: Oh, also I got one small part by mistake, due to an error in the parts list on rebrickable. The white bar part, it listed it as a 6L white part, but what is needed is a 6.6L white bar piece (part no. 4095). So I have had to order that, but I included it in the above total. That is the part that holds the hanging light over the workbench.

Edited April 29, 2015 by talos

[davidmull]

I added it up, and its taken 11 separate orders of parts, and I think I have everything now. Its cost me $152. I found the two minifigs which came to an additional $9, so grand total cost is $161. I am guessing about $23 of the total was just for shipping the orders to me. That part adds up when you have to go to over 10 different sellers, for these older, harder to find parts.

I have used some of my existing parts, but that isn't that much more to add. I used my existing track sections and some dark bluish gray bits. I didn't have much red on hand so that was a big part of the cost.

edit: Oh, also I got one small part by mistake, due to an error in the parts list on rebrickable. The white bar part, it listed it as a 6L white part, but what is needed is a 6.6L white bar piece (part no. 4095). So I have had to order that, but I included it in the above total. That is the part that holds the hanging light over the workbench.

Quiet expensive set to collect parts.

[talos]

I had some time to take a few photos of my rebrick of the Train Shed. It came together pretty easily, though waiting for so many BrickLink orders to get the parts needed was a bit frustrating.

My changes to adapt to cost/availability are pretty minor. I used newer 4x6 doors and windows on the ground level, which raised the overall height of it one brick. I used clear glass too, instead of the trans black, but might change that out in the future. Its hard to tell when its closed up. I used two silver 1x1 round bricks instead of the chrome silver 1.3x 1 part on the lathe. It fits, and just looks like a groove has been cut in the part on there.. I used a red hand truck instead of the yellow. The black web vertical supports are different, with open web, instead of the original's solid web.

One change/addition I made though was adding 2x2 and 2x4 black tiles to hold the skylights together (can see this in the photos). I don't know how this detail got put into an official set, but there is actually nothing but a little friction holding all of those trans black pieces on. Maybe there was a change in the part, I can't tell from what I have to go on, with the parts list and the instruction booklet. Without the tile pieces holding it all together, they would just fall off if held upside down! If anyone knows anything about this problem, let me know, maybe I can get different parts or something. For now though, I think it looks pretty good.

I need to figure out how I want to integrate it into my track layout. For now, its on the dining room table... LOL, I can get away with that for a little while longer. :-)

Here are the photos I took:

Edited May 8, 2015 by talos

[Bricktrain]

It sounds like you used http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=58181 instead of http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=3939 , that would also explain why you could build it for that price. They (3939) were expensive when I built my shed a couple of years ago, I have built mine double but in reddish brown with the taller doors and windows.

[davidmull]

Wow well done looks great and very like the original. Only parts I'd change is the windows to tinted ones.

What did u say the final cost was?

I'd say it took a lot of time and orders?

Edited May 9, 2015 by davidmull

[zephyr1934]

To the extent that you had to do trade offs, they all look very minor, well done. The one thing that looks odd to me though is the height of the main doors. They were odd on the original build and were clearly a compromise by lego in the design to avoid making a special door. Did you consider somehow extending the door (plate built doors?) or lowering the arch and hinges one brick?

[talos]

It sounds like you used http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=58181 instead of http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=3939 , that would also explain why you could build it for that price. They (3939) were expensive when I built my shed a couple of years ago, I have built mine double but in reddish brown with the taller doors and windows.

Ah, thanks! I knew there must be a different part. It's all because of an error on both BrickSet's and Rebrickable's parts lists. They both list part 58181 to use. (There are several other errors too, but I was able to figure them out.) This is also not helped by the instructions not having a parts list included. The 3939 part is still expensive from any sellers that have more than one to sell. I'll keep mine as-is for now, I kind of like the tile on top of them, I'll pretend they are ventilators ;-)

Wow well done looks great and very like the original. Only parts I'd change is the windows to tinted ones.

What did u say the final cost was?

I'd say it took a lot of time and orders?

I agree, I probably will swap the glass. The used 4x5 glass I got is really scratched up too, and that bothers me enough to want to find better.

I'd say cost to build it now is around $130 for me, and approximately 14 orders over about 3-4 weeks.

To the extent that you had to do trade offs, they all look very minor, well done. The one thing that looks odd to me though is the height of the main doors. They were odd on the original build and were clearly a compromise by lego in the design to avoid making a special door. Did you consider somehow extending the door (plate built doors?) or lowering the arch and hinges one brick?

I thought about adding the extra height above the doors, but decided to do it below because I was afraid the clearance for the engine might not be enough. I decided on that from other's comments that some trains didn't fit in the doors. Now I see the two trains I have so far would fit okay. I would just have to buy the expensive 4x5 style doors. Not sure I want to invest even more money into it, though.

[zephyr1934]

But could you build your own doors out of plates, e.g., using the following for the tops?

[Murdoch17]

But could you build your own doors out of plates, e.g., using the following for the tops?

++SNIP++

I did that for my shed, and found that what I did was weak. I plan on replacing them with brick-built doors that seem to work much better in LDD than the plate versions. here is a pic:

Then there is the old way...

On my model, these plate doors would bump into the wall slopes near the bottom, and come off the hinge. The brick doors are just a little thinner and do not bump into those slopes.

Hope this helps!

[davidmull]

Looks great although i do like the old style of the original 10027 doors.

[talos]

I kind of prefer the original doors too, they have the plank pattern on them and are the thinnest possible way of doing it.

[zephyr1934]

You know, that was a fantastic set with a lot of play value and a lot of thought put into it (but having recently built it you know that). I think the track doors were the weakest part in the original design. The actual parts for the doors are nice, but the gap is not. Though after seeing the alternatives I would have to agree that there is no perfect fix.

[pirzyk]

So one thought I had for these doors was to rotate 3581 90 degrees (so the tabs face inside) and one stud lower, make the opening 2 studs wider. Then attach the the doors inside the opening. It would make the bottom gap smaller. I'm just not sure it will work, I have yet to test it out. The curved top may catch when opening or closing the doors. Maybe I'll get to testing it out after BW.

[(1)Stein]

I started reading this thread last night, and then it got me thinking that I might have this set in my archive.

So I hade a look in my basement and found that I actually have two of these sets still completely sealed.

I guess i'll have to build them one day..........

[LegoSjaak]

Today might be that 'one day' i'll guess....

[scottwb2010]

I started reading this thread last night, and then it got me thinking that I might have this set in my archive.

So I hade a look in my basement and found that I actually have two of these sets still completely sealed.

I guess i'll have to build them one day..........

Wow! What a great set to find in you archive (1)Stein. Have 2 of these sets would be great as you could build one as per instructions and the other set as a mirror image to give a nice big engine workshop.

Enjoy building them

Edited June 10, 2015 by scottwb2010

[davidmull]

Wow that's great. Best train building ever.

[dr_spock]

I started reading this thread last night, and then it got me thinking that I might have this set in my archive.

So I hade a look in my basement and found that I actually have two of these sets still completely sealed.

I guess i'll have to build them one day..........

Sweet. Let us know if you need help building.