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Posted

Ahoy there!

 

Now, damn me all you want but I see this as a helpful matter. Also, forgive me if such topic has been discussed before. Lately I have ran into a problem where a 2x6 wedge plate connection to other regular plates is interrupted by a hinge plate. In order to fit it all, one stud is required to be cut from the wedge plate like so (higlighted by the blue line):

78443.png.d16847d1ae97c929d4031dbb9fe51886.png

The real question is - has anyone ever attempted something similar? We must take into account potential cracking of the piece. What tools would ye suggest using other than a knife?

 

Hoping to hear some great suggestions! :pir-thumb:

 

Jack Sassy

Posted
9 minutes ago, Jack Sassy said:

The real question is - has anyone ever attempted something similar? We must take into account potential cracking of the piece. What tools would ye suggest using other than a knife?

Haven´t tried it myself, but I would definitely use a saw for it and not a knife. Should be easier to do, have less risk to hurt yourself and also for the part to break - I really only would use a knive to deburr the edges afterwards.

Posted
8 minutes ago, Black Falcon said:

I would definitely use a saw for it and not a knife.

Good idea, though it would be tricky with that small corner. Have to consider it. :pir-thumb:

Posted

Grabbing the stud with pliers and twisting it off can be an option, more likely to remove extra under the middle of the stud, but less chance of injury.  Or sidecutters.

Posted

I did this kind of surgery quite often, even several studs in a row. I always cut them with a fresh blade on a cutter (sturdy carpet knife with straight blade).

In your case, it is fairly easy, as you can orient the piece exactly as shown in the picture. Put it on a piece of cardboard. Align the blade with the surface of the plate from the top and then use carefully increasing pressure pointing downward. The stud eventually simply "pops" off. The cut should (almost) be flush with the surface; if not use the knife again, blade held flush with the surface of the piece.

Yes, be careful of course. However, a saw would most probably damage the surface (badly). 

With more modern parts, it has even become easier to cut this way, as the ABS formulation is either softer than in the good ol'days or the old material has lost some softener/has further polymerized.

As said, did it this way quite often.

Best wishes and good luck
Thorsten

  

Posted

Any pliers are creating too much pressure to the surrounding structure, mostly leading into it breaking / cracking deeply into the piece.

I would possible recommend a fresh blade as well, but razorblades can hardly eat away any substance - I would give it a try with one of those manual metal-saws - with those it is super easy to get your corner cut in with keeping 1mm as security border. Remainings can easily be filed down flat.

Other idea: possibly it may help to have (a 1x1 and 1x2) or (2x2 corner) plate on the studs for giving you some guidance for how deep to cut.

Posted
2 hours ago, Toastie said:

With more modern parts, it has even become easier to cut this way, as the ABS formulation is either softer than in the good ol'days or the old material has lost some softener/has further polymerized.

Indeed, I have noticed the change since 2020. This could be an advantage.

1 hour ago, aFrInaTi0n said:

it may help to have (a 1x1 and 1x2) or (2x2 corner) plate on the studs for giving you some guidance for how deep to cut.

Aye, was thinking of doing that.

 

Might tinker with these ideas and post the result below.

Posted
12 hours ago, Jack Sassy said:

Good idea, though it would be tricky with that small corner. Have to consider it. :pir-thumb:

What I'd use is a fine fretsaw, those are made for such small detailed stuff.
To hold the piece without damaging it, I'd actually use more LEGO to build something sturdy on the studs that are going to remain that you can easily hold still :wink:

Posted

I have used mini hobby saws in the past and had a very nice clean cut from using one. They have very fine teeth on the saw, works very well!!

Posted

Thank ye all for suggestions! I decided to try it with a fret saw using an single edge blade. This be the result:

Cutting LEGO wedge plates

After some polishing with sandpaper it looks good enough. It was very easy to cut these plates with the saw, which surprised me. No cracking or anything, but as Thorsten pointed out, the new ABS plastic is much softer. Cannot guarantee similar results on brittle reddish brown plates. :grin:

 

P.S. 

It is possible to cut these plates using a hobby knife, the results will be far less satisfactory though.

Posted

To finish it to a good smooth edge, use a fine grit emery paper, you can get them in hobby shops. Or a nail care kit that comes with a number of boards and buffers. For really fine finish, put a little basic toothpaste (no gel Stripe, literally just white toothpaste) on a cloth as its a really mild abrasive. 

Posted
On 5/27/2026 at 7:26 AM, dr_spock said:

I would mill it out with a CNC machine or  use a Dremel with cutting disc set up like a tiny table saw.

I had thought of something similar, a shame I do not have these tools at home.

7 hours ago, Peppermint_M said:

To finish it to a good smooth edge, use a fine grit emery paper, you can get them in hobby shops.

Aye, already done that. These parts function as the support for a tiled floor, so the final result is rougher. Under different circumstances this could certainly look closer to the official designs.

Posted
On 5/29/2026 at 8:35 PM, Jack Sassy said:

Aye, already done that.

:thumbup: I had a lot of clone brick to play about with and use in other projects so I have done a lot of ABS mods over the years. Plus a minor obsession with Gunpla and Zoids. So I collected a lot of tips

My sister and brother in law are pretty serious costumers too, so we trade "hacks". 

Posted
11 hours ago, Peppermint_M said:

My sister and brother in law are pretty serious costumers too, so we trade "hacks". 

That sounds fun! :pir-grin:

 

I must admit, I am still quite reserved about modifying LEGO parts, it feels as if some brick police will arrest me. :cannon:

Posted

I would never do it myself now. As a kid I might have, I always was really annoyed if I was just missing the right parts or it just wouldn't fit. Nowadays I'd be more tempted to find someone to 3D print the non-existing part.

Posted
7 hours ago, Jack Sassy said:

it feels as if some brick police will arrest me

Well, be rest assured, they don't exist nor will there be any arrest. In contrast: The moment you succeeded and all fits well - it feels good. We essentially manipulate everything around us, if we see fit, but LEGO bricks: No no! Clone bricks? Of course, why not. Both are ABS, one says "LEGO" on each stud. There is no Clone Police, we know that for sure, but a TLG Police? Who knows? TLG has really done a good job in getting us there, didn't they?

My take: If TLG does not make the parts I need, I make them myself. It is that easy. Should they decide to make that special part for me eventually (which happened so often over the past decades, as I essentially came from the 2x4 brick :D), I don't jump up and down and thank the Gods of the LEGO bricks. I say to myself: Finally they got there as well. 

Happy cutting!

All the best
Thorsten 

Posted
On 5/31/2026 at 10:06 AM, Jack Sassy said:

That sounds fun! :pir-grin:

At least one of his Star Wars replica blasters has a LEGO lightsaber blade in the sight,  I managed to source a lot of similar transparent flagpole/rod parts from my clone brand collection for him to use as spares. 

What is really handy is he has stock of a type of glue that is technically illegal now, if I ever need it :pir-skel:

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