Tobbe Arnesson

Välkommen - both to the forum and to the colorful world of LEGO! Guess it's never to late to find the magic of the brick! Det finns även ett aktivt forum på svenska om du inte redan hittat det: http://www.swebrick.se/forum/index.php I wish you much joy gathering a collection, taking part of the fun here at Eurobricks and also building some MOCs!

Who?

I can't agree on that, as Teddy said: rien might have a superior batch with higher tolerances, others might not be so fortunate. Everything else I agree on, even if I don't drink tea.

Larger photos here: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=170926 Sweet build! Why don't you reverse engineer that one if you like it?

Cool MOC, great video!

Using Li-Po is a great idea! It's a much better battery than alkaline or NiMH (if charged responsibly). Using voltages over the specified is how-ever not such a good idea, especially not through a IC. Even if I can afford to buy several new IR-receivers if they brake I prefer to spend that money on new bricks, not replacing burnt ones. I could see myself using such batteries with a resistor voltage limiter to bring down the voltage to 9V. Then there is the question of purity. I have myself used a fair deal of non-LEGO elements in MOCs, especially to make them remote controlled pre-PF. As long as non-LEGO elements are used to get functionality that does not exist, and as long as they are not used in a way to get more room I see no problem with that (i.e. a smaller form factor than existing official battery-solutions). But to each and his own! After all it's just a toy and a hobby...

I now have a can of the K Nate from Kernite. The description in Swedish, Danish and Norweigan (possible also in Finnish) say's it can damage certain plastics and paints. The English description does not say that. Strange. I'll try on some old damaged bricks and see if there's any visible damage. Only the Norweigan text says what's in the bottle: Propane 10-25% Butane 25-50% Petroleum, lightly hydrogen treated 10-25% All languages say Calcium Sulphonate Grease.

Very fluid motion, great implementation!

Try getStore next time, works great for these tasks: http://www.tellblom.se/lego/getstores/

If I had endured for more then ten minutes I would probably name White Chicks here, but i didn't. First movie I have turned off due to crapiness.

Bigger drums where the cable don't have to overlap would solve it. As it is now it starts out even but one side has a larger diameter drum, probably because the cable is overlapping differently.

Stunning creations! Especially the two showels. Massive, both in size and detail!

Way cool! Really interesting shape in that small scale!

Thanks Flare! When I got the idea I searched BrickLink for ducks and when those giant's came up I just had to build it.

Bwahahahaha! I love it! Thanks for posting here, I stay well clear of Flickr...

I made a Robotwars-MOC back in 2005 where I had four Light Gray Electric, Motor 9V (pre PF) on 18 V (two battery-boxes hooked in series). It was not long term, max about an hour in total with pretty short sessions. Worked fine and the motors did not feel that hot (I never stalled the motors). I would however never run higher voltage through a micro controller such as the PF-receiver.

Impressive! I bet this makes control a lot easier! I have bought all the pieces to build Zblj's smooth wheels (12 x 2) and when I get around to build them I think I have to try and replicate your differential design as well! Zblj: The black 6589 Gear 12 tooth bevel came in 3806 Gigamesh G60 and 3809 Technojaw T55 according to http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=6589&colorID=11&in=A

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9vIfNn4pgw8

How about building some of the items on the current list and add more when they come to you? Or are you merely building a "too build"-list?

Alternative model for 8844 Helicopter, 1981:

Thanks.

Looks like great fun!

You might want to look out for this set: http://www.brickset.com/detail/?Set=9667-1 Brickset claims it's not released yet...

That old motor is at 2 000 rpm...

I did a quick Google and found: http://orionrobots.co.uk/tiki-index.php?page=Lego+Solar+Panel * 3 V, 200 mA at full sun outdoors * 3 V, 100 mA at full sun indoors through window * 2.5 V, 8 mA with light from 60 W incandescent lamp with 25 cm distance to solar cell (2000 lx) * 2.5 V, 40 mA with light from 60 W incandescent lamp with 8 cm distance to solar cell (10,000 lx) According to http://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm the M-motor draws 0,31 A. So for indoor use at full sun you'd need three solar panels in series to get up to 9V and that current should be enough for one motor at the time (no driving), but to drive you need to put two such solar "batteries" in parallel so that puts you up to six solar panels. But to be safe you'd better add a third batteries in parallel so nine units. And my guess is that even then the Excavator would move slower than on fresh batteries.