le60head

Great Model! Looks very fun to drive and to manupulate the bucket! It's controls are very precise! you mentioned earlied that you have fitted 5 motors in the back? would you please post an internal picture? I'm very curious to see how you arranged them. Also - i noticed that the driver is chrome-coated? Did you paint it yourself? Looks cool! Keep up your amazing work! It's oh-so inspiring! Thank you!

Hey there! this is the smallest rim & tire combo i can think of: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=42610&ccName=4211758 http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=50945 Good luck with your project!

Great Topic! I am very thankful for the pictures of your own solutions!

Hey guys! Nice topic. I was tempted to join in the conversation. I've been postponing buying a new set of strings for a LOT of time. I'd probably do that, but then again ... the new rock crawler ... I imagine myself getting a RC Hobby car, maybe two :) I also used to have the ambition of starting to make a Audio CD collection with my favorite performers and ordering it neatly somewhere.

Thank you for your reply, Andy!

Thank you for the images! Now i don't have to do the same in order to find out what's inside :) Here's an off-topic question (probably): Would it be possible to replace the internal motor with a brushless one? Would it make a big difference?

Sorry to hear that ... It's very annoying, and unfortunately haven't heard of anyone finding a way to identify what's causing the problem and how to fix it.

I bought two sets of Sanyo Eneloops to use with the RC Buggy ( and my NXT as well ). they provide just above 1.2v each, or a total of around 7,4 - 8 volts. I'm quite happy with them, since they hold their current rock solid. /for now ;) / The RC buggy can be driven flat-out for about an hour before the batteries are depleted. I haven't tested the RC buggy with 9v alkalines, but i guess it will have no effect on the signal range. About the range: the buggy receives a strong signal even after about 10-12 meters. That's as far as i have tested it, and it is operating as expected at that distance. No noticable LAG or "twitching" - temporary signal loss. If i remember correctly the fault of my first RC unit was a malfunctioning chip. That's what the people at the hobby service told me, and unfortunately they could not find a replacement for it. That's why in the end i decided to look for a new Receiver Unit. The remote has been functioning ok - no complaints there. One last thing, here's a video i made with the faulty receiver unit just when i got it. As you can probably notice, after a very short distance the motors start to "twitch" instead of working continuously as they should. That goes BOTH for the Propulsion and the Steering. Hope that helps! I remember i was pretty low in spirit when i couldn't figure out why the **** the RC buggy was losing signal after just a meter. Don't lose hope, try to find a replacement module. In the end it's gonna be worth it! The sensation of driving it in the nearby park while enjoying a beer with a friend is just priceless! Once more - good luck! I wish you to easily find a helping seller who is willing to test the RC unit before you order it from him, as i did.

Hi mate! I'm sorry to hear you had the same problem as i did. My RC buggy receiver did the same thing: after a meter it started to lose signal and to "twitch" instead of operating smoothly. I brought the receiver AND the remote to a hobby repair service, and after some attempts to find the problem they could not help me. In the end i ordered a replacement RC Buggy Receiver Unit from this fellow: http://www.bricklink.com//store.asp?p=legostock He was kind enough to re-test the maximum distance at which the unit worked since i asked him. I'd definately recommend to you to check his store out! My RC Buggy is working fine now - no complaints whatsoever. Wish you good luck finding a replacement! Best regards, Legohead

Nope, just the guys i met in our local LEGO community. That's why helped in starting it :)

it's fairly easy to disassemble the battery box for cleaning. I remember there was already such a topic in eurobricks. Could you try to look for it? If not' i can attach photos on how to disassemble it here.

Great idea! Looking forward to results. About the disassembly of the standard ( AA-type) PF Battery box: After you remove the two side screws, it's fairy easy to pull out the center part, which contains the battery beds. Good luck with the project!

You're welcome, Costas!

Hello! The black technic pin without slots is the oldest one. Having no slots in the middle, it's stiffer than its modern counterpart. The only reason i'd use them instead of the newer part is when i need to have an extra-strong connection between two parts. It is harder to insert and pull out of bricks, liftarms (and other parts) compared to the newer technic pin. The newer black technic pin with slots has a bit of elasticity, thus making it easier to insert into brick, liftarms etc. It has a "clicky" feel when you insert it. Hope this information helps. Regards, legohead

Hi! the steering unit from the RC Buggy and Supersonic RC does contain a small spring that helps centering the steering motor, but it is VERY WEAK. In a way, it could be used like the hokey spring i guess, but again: the spring is very weak. The second function of the steering unit is, that it has a lever to compensate for dodgy steering: if the RC doesn't go straight when the steering motor is centered, you could use this mechanical adjustment to compensate for that. This has nothing to do with the steering motor though. My guess is that the steering unit would not be suitable for usage with a pneumatic valve, since it is designed to be connected exclusively to the RC Unit's steering motor. One last thing: i think that the axle in the steering unit has a range of about 30 degrees in each direction, not half a turn. I can measure that if necessary. Hope this info helps :) Regards, legohead

yup. if you know the administrators, you would do them a big favor of letting them know about it :)

I am running win7 Ultimate x86. I just installed RIS2, then installed USB infrared tower xp-patch, and voila - downloaded firmware. Everything works as expected.

Sorry, i got a little mixed up. There's a patch for the RIX 2.0 and an USB IR Tower driver Here's what the readme of the USB tower driver says: "Only install this if you have Hyper-threading capabilities of your processor. Donґt know if you do or donґt ? Just run the main program without this patch, if it freezes install it :)" The patch is said to be for win XP, but i guess it works for win7 ( works fine for me at least ) Is it okay if i attach in this topic ?

I dont get it. What does the copyright cover, and why is it wrong for somebody to copy the design? I dont see darkboy doing it for profit ?

i also had no trouble running RIS 2.0 under win7 using USB IR Tower. If i remember correctly, there was some sort of a patch for the IR tower driver. If you have any trouble, let me know. I'll do what i can to help you :)

Sariel, shouldn't you post a video about "not forgetting to check the remote controller battery this time? Glad you worked it out 88high!

GHAGHAGHAGHAGHA! Pardon me, but that WAS funny :D My cat also acts weird when i drive a noisily buzzing lego rc model of some sort to her. i guess it's normal, and is mostly because of the lego motors being noisy.

Thanks! I tried making it short. I wish to make the whole car small and light. I also didn't want to compromise on the width of the steering lock. The previous design for the steering arms failed. The problem was in the u-joints, that controlled the front wheels turning. It ended up being too wobbly, so here I am at my second attempt. If you want i can make some pics before i disassemble it. I'm about to redisign the frame according to the new steering arms. But first - the new Mythbusters episode :)

Here I am after quite some time. steering_prototype_2 by le60head, on Flickr P.S. I'll add some description later today.

Great review! I think it should be mentioned, that the RC Buggy Battery / Receiver unit in this set is WITHOUT an auxiliary motor output, like the other two have. (Those would be 8366 Supersonic RC & 8475 RC Race Buggy) Do you care to give some more information about the Receiver unit and how it functions ?