le60head

Hello! This is the first time i see a photo of the yellow plane ( the one with the big propeller) I'm amazed to see how big it actually is. Thank you so much for the comparison photo!

Hi guys! I was wondering if there is any functional or structural difference between the Blue and White version of the Air Tank. I suppose not, but wanted to make sure. peeron link Also, does anyone happen to know whether the Air Tank is just a plastic cylinder with two holes for tubing or not? Does it contain some kind of membrane or cut-off valve inside? I am currently using a plastic 0,5 l bottle for the purpose of an Air tank, and was wondering if a LEGO air tank would do just the same job or not. I'll be glad if someone were to share some in-depth information. Thanks in advance!

hi there! I purchased my copy of 8466 just two months ago. As other people mentioned it as well in this topic, what you should be most concerned about is the condition of the front shock absorbers. The tyres should be fine - they're made of pretty thick rubber, and weight a ton! Apart from the green panels being a bit scratched, i cant imagine what could get wrong with that model, after staying assembled for 10 years. A bit of cleaning the dust, and it should be good as new! Good luck! Wish you a whole lot of joy with that model!

Hey, that's a great idea! I love your design! I'll go check your other stuff for sure!

WOW WOW WOW WOW WOW! Thank you for this amazing model! And thanks to I Scream Clone for the topic :) I never expected this model to feature such a lovely interior and details! I so want it now ... (circling 1st of october on the calendar :D )

Another Great one! Did you choose those wheels for their looks, or for their grip?

Wow! This is an amazing ship! Congratulations!

Great work! I find your ship very inspiring. Keep it up!

hehe, old times ;) I'll never forget the first rectangular 9v motor, which ran at 2000 rpm i think, with no internal gear reduction whatsoever Yeah, i liked that but realistically speaking, i think that having two sequential planetary gear reductions are far more efficient and space-conserving ;) ( XL motor )

Hello! I wasn't aware that u needed to login to see the attached file, sorry. Removed the link, my bad. Thank you for letting me know, DLuders!

Hello again! Today I put together the planetary hub. Amazing piece of engineering, very happy with how it works! Can't wait to build a wheel base and connect it to it! I did some modifications though, since i don't have one of the parts. All the parts i changed are in red. Take a look at it and tell me what you think. P.S. Oh, and thanks to Superkalle for the information on how to unloack LDD extended mode!

without connecting the motor trough a PF infrared receiver, as far as i know yes - one RC motor should work fine powered by 9v PF battery box. Good luck!

Thank you very much! I'll look in to it in-depth soon! Greets!

Hello Zblj! I just got my hands on a full set of the Power Puller wheels, and I'm even MORE impressed with the truck you've build. Just now i'm starting to imagine how big it actually is. WOW! I would really appreciate it if you could share the construction of the planetary gear reductuon for the wheels, using a technic studless turntable. I have the feeling that this might be the best possible solution to make a sturdy and powerful mount for those huge wheels. Will be looking forward to your reply! Thanks!

I've always been wondering if the air tank has any kind of a pressurized elastic vessel inside of it, or is just a plastic box. Could someone please share?

Hey Guys! I think this is a very good question raised here. According to my understanding, the main thing one should consider when building a studded or a studless construction is that studless bricks have a square profile. That means, that their width and height is the same, so you can position them as you see fit. For ex. you can place one beam with holes facing upwards and u can position another one next to it with the holes facing to the side. Then u have to connect them with other parts ofcourse ;) That does however make your construction a little bit flimsy i guess. When building with studded beams, you can place them one on top of the other, or cross-connect them. You also often need plates to place inbetween the bricks. They give less flexibility i guess, and are a bit more limiting in their use. I cannot say which type of bricks i prefer. I completely support the statement made by Erik Leppen: The bricks you should use depend on your goals. I personally find myself using both studded and studless bricks, for different applications ofcourse.

Wow! Great robot! The thing i love most about it is it's character! Great work, keep it up!

Nuttin :) I'm using it quite conveniently.

Very very good, mate! It looks sturdy and simple enough. Nice job! I've seen a lot of people connect a steering wheel to the actual control lever via a link of some sort - even a rubber 2x1 "beam". Thus, when you spin the steering wheel left, it pushes or pulls the steering control fw or back. Yours is the first i've seen to use conical gear wheels to do the job. I am wondering, whether the steering lever has a lot of free play, due to the gear wheels you've used. I'll appreciate it if you would give some info about that :) I am currently using this to control my pf models: I use the steering wheel with the following rule in mind: when i'm looking at it head on, left is left and right is right. Works for me ;)

Hey guys! I am following this topic with great interest! I am currently unable to try out this steering setup myself. I am curious to get my hands on it though! Thanks superkale! I'm looking forward to receiving a replacement motor for the steering. When it's done and works 100% well, i'll show it gladly :) The main problem i am facing is that the self-centering steering isn't working very reliable. When i'm satisfied with the prototype, i'll try and make detailed building instructions. Good luck with your project!

I totally agree with you! I am still working on a model of a vehicle in minifig scale. I'm doing the finishing touches, and will present it very soon. The steering mechanism i showed earlier in this topic was one of the ideas i had to make it steer. I've used a different approach though.

it's hard of me to explain with words how this steering mechanism is supposed to work. The mounting point ( the axle where the cog wheel is ) should be connected to the steering motor. When the axle turns, it pushes one holding bar in one direction ( inside) and the other holding bar in the opposite direction). Thus the wheels themselves are turned, and their turning point is over the center of the black connector, where the bley peg is inserted. Hope what i just explained is understandable. In principle, it works just like an ordinary rack and pinion steering mechanism.

That's an ambitious project. I like it ! I haven't tried to fit a steering wheel in such a tight wheel well yet. I am guessing two things might help: 1 - move the pivoting point as close as possible to the center of the wheel. 2 - use narrower wheels I have a suggestion for a steering mechanism that might work. I haven't tested it out yet, so i would say it's experimental. I've attached a screenshot. I can send you the .ldd file if u want. Hope i helped :) P.S. For some reason, there's a limitation to attachments to ... 17 kb?!? Sorry for the crappy image :)

Thank you for this piece of informaton! I'll try this out for sure! It would be great to be able to control 3 motors onboard + 2 motors for every PF receiver using a RCX brick! I recently found out that an RCX can control a Spybot or a Scout using infrared signals.

That is odd, i agree. I am currently using a small 0,5 l. bottle from nestea, with two outer cable tubes glued to its cap. Works like a charm :)