codefox421
-
Posts
198 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Everything posted by codefox421
-
Thank you! Yes, you do. It's currently emulating "step up/down one speed." However, when a command is sent to the device, it reports back the current speed of each channel after making any requested changes. Sending an unrecognized command is, in effect, polling for the current speeds. You could use this to implement "go to speed N" externally without any changes to the firmware, but going directly to a particular speed (other than max) is something I have considered adding to the command set. I also had the thought after filming the video that an NXT motor could be used as a joystick, but the restriction to only 7 PF speeds made it seem not so worthwhile. If I add "go to speed N," I will most likely add "go to duty cycle X" as well, in order to achieve "continuously variable" speeds.
-
I would love to see TLG release a train station in the modular buildings line. It would be interesting to see what they do within the 32x32 space. Plus, it would be something that even non-train-fans could enjoy.
-
There might be some automation potential here. Emerald Night controlled by NXT via Bluetooth More info over in the Technic forum: http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=87340
-
I proudly present my 8884bt being controlled from an NXT programmable brick! http://www.brickshel...8884bt_demo.rbt Please excuse the 3rd party LiPo. There are solder points for standard PF connections, but I lack a PF battery box. I also lack an EV3 to test, but I assume it would work. As far as I can tell, the EV3 supports the Bluetooth Serial Port Profile, which is used by the RN-42, HC-06, etc. There remains an issue with the voltage rectification. It works, but has some properties I didn't know to account for in my design. I'll be sorting this out as well as replacing the RN-42 for the much cheaper HC-06 in an upcoming iteration. I'm also debating whether or not I should replace the TB6612FNG with the DRV8833. Is the extra 500mA per channel worth the effort? I suppose it may be. I'll have to do some prototyping to investigate. Also on the to-do list are some improvements to the Android app, namely connecting to multiple receivers simultaneously, assigning nicknames to receivers, and some small UI tweaks. Thoughts? -
@jrathfon Using standard LEGO curves, the center radius is 40 studs (inner: 36, outer: 44). SteveB is listing center radii (I'm assuming because that makes his numbers make the most sense). Let's say 5 parallel tracks (with 8 studs between tracks) turn to the left, and the first track from the left uses standard curves. Each curve will be concentric with the others if: - the second track has a 56 stud radius - the third track has a 72 stud radius - the fourth track has an 88 stud radius - the fifth track has a 104 stud radius Equivalently, when placed around a circle of standard curves, the space between tracks will be: - 8 studs for 56 radius - 24 studs for 72 radius - 40 studs for 88 radius - 56 studs for 104 radius @SteveB Would you consider making more than one radius? It probably doesn't make sense to do so from the start (cost prohibitive), but maybe in the future?
-
I couldn't agree more. I used to be hung up on 9v functionality, but I'm realizing more and more that it makes total sense to switch to PF (unless you have heaps upon piles of 9v track! ) How much does it cost you to make a section of track? Where do you get the ABS rail stock? My first thought for affixing ABS to ABS would have been acetone; what glue are you using and how does it hold up? And how do you make those curves so nice and smooth? By the way, Daedalus... ...I stumbled upon a while ago. It offers another promising option for low-cost, outdoor track, though maybe not quite as pretty as an ABS variant.
-
It's a little long, but this reduces the space between the cheese slopes: LDD file On second thought, you could get it a little shorter: LDD file ...but the longer version is possibly more stable and less complex.
-
Awesome build, Murdoch! Always interesting to read the back-stories you invent for your models. In case you or anyone else is interested, I made a few optimizations so it's a slightly less brick-hungry model: LDD file Any plans to build this beauty IRL?
-
By all means, please do! You can find the latest code here: https://github.com/BTbricks/brickster-android I have some of these lying around. I meant to do a breadboard prototype with them before creating a second revision of the PCB, but the first revision was a bit of a failure learning experience, so I stuck with my previous driver for now. I was considering using Pololu's DRV8833 board as a sort of plug'n'play solution, attached to the PCB via headers. Coincidentally, it was these boards that inspired my ~0V drop rectification subsystem. Good luck with the paste! I haven't tried it myself, but it would definitely help for making things en masse. I learned SMD using a soldering iron with a fine point tip and have stuck with it.
-
Hi NXT45! I've planned to make this a suitable replacement for LEGO's IR receiver, so it will have two motor outputs. It falls somewhere between the v1 and v2 IR receivers in terms of available amperage. Awesome receiver, BrianZ! Definitely a big win for LEGO racing I've had my PCB fabbed because I need a two-layer board so I can make my device as small as possible. I hand solder my SMD prototypes, so the solder mask is a big help too. And at $5 per sq. in. for three copies (including shipping), getting it fabbed isn't cost prohibitive. Three copies of this board come out to about $6.20. The only downside is having to wait a few weeks for them to arrive. Now to find some free time so I can solder it up and give it a try...
-
I'm still working on this, though my schedule has been busier lately, so I haven't had much time to spare. I've narrowed down the programming issue a bit. I can successfully burn the fuses and program the microcontroller ~100% of the time while it's off the PCB. This means there's an issue with something on the PCB or something between the AVRISP and the PCB (I've been using a pogo ISP adapter). However, I can program the chip, so I'm going to try getting one board working as soon as I can. Meanwhile, I'll continue to sort out the programming issue. I've never been quite so happy to see an LED blinking P.S. These are finished, so the app could technically ship right now... but there is nothing for it to control yet!
-
If you use Digital Designer "extended" version (black tab at the initial LDD screen), the "Profile Brick 1X2 Single Gro." will be in the first category (bricks), about the sixth entry in. Alternatively, you can search for it in the "extended" version by its name. I've observed this in LDD 4.3.8
-
WIP LDD MOC British Rail MK 1 SO Carriage
codefox421 replied to jamesed_1971's topic in LEGO Train Tech
Wow, these look great! I've been designing a similar carriage in 7-wide, so I'm definitely drawing some inspiration from this when I revisit mine. Love the different liveries too -
Absolutely stunning. Seeing how well the rest of your layout looks "in the brick," I can't wait to see this added to it. What angle are those tunnel portals at? Are they held down by turntables? Something else? Or are they free-floating? The fact that they're at an angle makes the piece quite interesting. Very well done. The track geometry is throwing me for a spin. How does that work out with the angle?
-
That diesel is top notch. Love it!
-
A very classic looking loco. The band is a nice touch, and nothing tops that spinning tree! Great Christmas train, Pizzareno!
-
I originally started this topic to solicit ideas for an enclosure for the finished product. I sadly misjudged the stage at which thing were at the time. I have to admit, though I've studied electronics design somewhat, it is far from my specialty. Therefore, I'm now seeking advice regarding electronics design wrt microcontrollers. I've bricked (or maybe pseudo-bricked?) a few chips now while trying to program fuses or load a program. I've read that connecting the programmer directly to the pins of the uC isn't the best choice and can lead to the kind of failures I've been experiencing, but I can't seem to find an explanation of how to actually connect them properly. Can someone who has experience programming microcontrollers (especially the ATtiny84) advise? Never mind. Using Atmel's programmer makes all the difference. Sayonara Arduino-based programmers! -------- Otherwise, I stumbled upon a MOSFET trick which enables DC polarity rectification with ~0 voltage drop, and I have integrated this into the design. This means the receiver can be powered directly from older battery boxes, even though they only output on the PF "motor" lines. Additionally, the PCB's bounding box hasn't expanded with this upgrade.
-
Need help with design of an Octan Locomotive
codefox421 replied to AlmightyArjen's topic in LEGO Train Tech
You could always use stickers/decals to keep the colors consistent. Something to the effect of the doors on TLG's Metroliner. -
MOC: Norfolk Southern EMD SD70M-2 - Now with 400% more power!
codefox421 replied to legoman666's topic in LEGO Train Tech
Great work, especially getting it to look identical to your unpowered version! There's a lot of power packed in there. Have you taken it to its limit to see how much it can pull? Any chance we'll see a video of it running? -
This is an amazing diorama! The fire and smoke is spot on. The use of aircraft doors on the engine is great parts usage (I may have to borrow that some day). There is too much that is good to mention it all! Those standard LEGO pines look a little out of place though Anastasia was a good movie, but I haven't seen it in quite some time. This was one of the most exiting (best?) scenes! I may need to find a VHS player now...
-
I just looked it up. Seven sets have that part in dark red, six of which contain two or more: http://www.bricklink...sp?P=93273&in=S Somehow I had overlooked that it was dark red. Definitely a good choice.
-
Indeed! I would never not wear them for a project of this sort. Sparks everywhere! A pair of gloves might help, but those I lack.
-
Wow, the red/black livery definitely makes this little engine pop! The shortened smokestack and the bar w/ clip also enhance the look. I assume the bar w/ clip still functions to turn the battery on/off? It's a shame you've lost the smooth curve over the front wheels, but maybe that part doesn't exist in red? Or at least not in your collection of bricks? (I didn't even know that part existed until lately, but it works wonders over a steam locomotive's drivers.)
-
Thanks for the tip! It's a bit difficult to find a shop that sells them here in the States, but I was able to find somewhere that had them in stock. I'm looking forward to trying them out, though I'm not sure they've shipped yet. Also, I contacted NWSL about the out-of-spec wheels. I got a reply from possibly the owner? He was convinced the problem was due to them receiving the wrong skyving tool when they bought the company in 2008, and he offered a refund if I returned the wheels. Looking back in this thread however, I noticed you posted about receiving your appropriately sized wheels in March of this year, which means that can't be true. I pointed this out in reply and have since been ignored. It doesn't bode well for their customer service, but maybe they feel it's not important enough to deal with since I only bought 12 wheels. I guess I will have to shave them down on a handheld rotary tool... probably not the safest thing in the world, but my only option at this point.
-
I never received confirmation when my order shipped. Maybe yours are already on the way and you don't even know it. I'm planning to use 1/8"OD 1/16"ID polyurethane tubing for isolation and to mount the wheels on standard LEGO train axles. I've tested this with the wheels I was shipped, and it works pretty well. The challenging part for me is going to be transferring power from the wheels to wires.