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Duq

Eurobricks Counts
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Everything posted by Duq

  1. Duq
    I'm having a hard time finding more information about the Kuhnsche Schleife. Is there a site you could point me to?
  2. Duq
    Nice idea and excellent execution! Pity they didn't make the 1x6 with light prisms in more colours.
  3. Duq
    Keep them coming! Flange greasepots and hot axle pot detectors. Wow. The things you can learn on a Wednesday night inbetween sorting umpteen thousand cheese slopes... I assume German railways would have similar infrastructure. Do you know how their designs are different and/or where I could find details? (Oh, and it's probably a typo, but last time I checked a standard baseplate was 32x32, not 36x36 ;- )
  4. Duq
    Would it be possible to make the radius bar move? If you let your valve stem move and you connect it below the hinge point of of the expansion link? Moving that connection along the expansion link with the lifting link is as you say impossible with the available parts... What did you use for the angle of the eccentric crank? Two 8T gears behind the wheel?
  5. Duq
    It's another little beauty! You don't have to build a Big Boy to have an impressive model ;-) The valve gear is impressive, but it's not complete... You're missing the radius bar at the top of the mechanism. Also the lifting link but that's gonna be quite a challenge...
  6. Duq

    Traction

    Duq replied to HRBuildNStuf's topic in LEGO Train Tech

    I see a few issues in your pictures... Picture 11 shows that your drivers are not 'quartered'. That's important to stop the whole thing jamming. Why do you have this odd construction for the middle axle? It looks like you want it to move up and down, but that won't work with the drivers and may again contribute to the drivetrain jamming. You are using a 'blind' driver in the middle which will float left and right when the engine takes corners. You are using axle-pins for the middle drivers. An single axle for the two wheels would be better but that gets in the way of your driveshaft. Second-best are 2L axles; they will give less friction. The side-rods will stop the wheels falling off. Third thing I noticed is that your side-rods/coupling rods are not rigid; you have a hinge point in them, possibly for that suspension in the middle axle. Last thing are your connecting rods that go through an axle/pin connector. This is another construction that may jam. Have a look at other (LEGO) steam engines. You'll see that most will have some way to guide the horizontal movement of the end of the connecting rod. The image above is from the Big Ben site. It's got some good tips for building a drivetrain: http://www.bigbenbricks.com/applications.html I hope with all these comments you can make some progress tonight. Looks like you're working on an ambitious project!
  7. Duq
    That's a great model! Love your pantographs.
  8. Duq

    Traction

    Duq replied to HRBuildNStuf's topic in LEGO Train Tech

    As mentioned in the comments on Flickr, it's part 48496, "Technic, Pin Connector Toggle Joint Smooth Double with 2 Pins".alpha.bricklink.com/pages/clone/catalogitem.page?P=48496#T=C Where possible use some sort of bracing for your gear train, like I did with the 5L beam at the front in the second picture. In most situations it's best to use 8, 16, 24 and 40 together, and 12, 20, 28 and 36. They will mesh nicely at standard distances. Don't use single-bevel gears unless you need to turn a corner. And finally, the fewer gears the better. LEGO gears are engineered for simplicity and easy use, not for minimal friction. Show us some pictures of what you're doing.
  9. Duq

    Traction

    Duq replied to HRBuildNStuf's topic in LEGO Train Tech

    My BR 55 happily pulls a string of freight cars on a single L-motor and even the old BR 65 on a single M-motor manages to pull trains. Neither has extra weight on board, both have rubber bands (on one side!). I haven't used XL yet because I just don't have the space in the engines I build. BR65 Drivetrain by Duq, on Flickr BR55 Drive train by Duq, on Flickr
  10. Duq

    Traction

    Duq replied to HRBuildNStuf's topic in LEGO Train Tech

    Are these LEGO wheels or Big Ben? Sounds like you need rubber traction bands rather than more weight. What's the 22169 motor, can't find that on Bricklink? The Power Functions L and XL motors are popular with train builders.
  11. Duq
    Just admired them on Flickr, really nice. Like you said, it's these kind of details that make a difference but are often overlooked. For most of us who are not train drivers it's not easy to find information about them... About the pipes, do they go straight out or would they be angled down on the outside?
  12. Duq
    Does this help? It's based on 9V track but the radius is the same. Curved track attachment points by Duq, on Flickr
  13. Duq
    I have a number of remote controls from Dirt Crushers and Supersonic RC's: A few of them have developed an issue; the signal they send is jittery. You hold steering full right for example and on the car the steering goes between straight and full right. I know for sure it's the remote control and not the car. If I set two cars on the same channel their steering behaves exactly the same, jumping between straight and turn at exactly the same time. I've opened up one of the remotes but there's nothing obvious; no burnt out electronics, no dirt in the joystick contacts. Does anyone have experience repairing these remote controls? They're still costing €20 or more each so I don't want to go and replace a handful...
  14. Duq
    Well that's a bit meh... If you're doing a tribute re-issue then why not pick something more iconic like 726, 7750 or the engine from 7740? And why are they releasing this 4 years late?
  15. Duq
    Nice to see I'm mentioned in Bartosz's link and Zephyr's blast from the past ;-) This is my version. The description on Flickr tells you how I arrived here. I've used this for years now, most recently in my automated tram where it ran for two full days, switching once a minute, without failure. PF points motor by Duq, on Flickr
  16. Duq
    You will find many Lego Train MOCs and building techniques on Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/groups/legotrains/pool https://www.flickr.com/groups/legotrainideas/pool
  17. Duq
    Inside or outside, it's going to look odd. Because of the tight curves your platform will need to be a good distance away from the track.
  18. Duq
    I've seen PU used to control a train; color sensor in the train reading coloured tiles between the rails for commands like half speed, stop, reverse. Don't think there was any Arduino involved though.
  19. Duq
    What can I say? Once a teacher....
  20. Duq
    Very impressive model! I'll have to work a bit harder now on my next model... Also looks like I need to upgrade my labelmaker. I bought the Dymo Labelmanager PnP a while ago but I'm disappointed with the resolution. By the way, did you really write 'my Legos' in that article? :-P
  21. Duq
    Remember this? Eurobricks banner by Duq, on Flickr According to the Wayback machine we've had these silly rabbits for well over 2 years now....
  22. Duq
    @Toastie Probably a question for you: I'm trying to control a train with an RCX. That works, and using a light sensor to stop it where I want also works. Most of the time.... I'm running the output on power 1, that's fast enough for my tram. I tried 0, but that's too low to make it move. My problem is that every now and then the output appears to give the train motor more power. As a result it runs faster, overshoots the mark at the light sensor, and my program is in trouble.... Have others noticed this problem or is it a problem with the brick I'm using? If it's a known problem, is there a way around it? Would writing my own PWM be an option or will that not work because RCX already uses PWM itself?
  23. Duq
    I think that's P for Point and 40 because the straight section is 40 studs long. The crossings are 'X' and straights are 'S'. This is all good news but with all their focus on this track system the development of the Android app for the PFx brick seems to suffer...
  24. Duq
    When does it derail? I'm guessing when the front engine goes into a turn and slows down while the rear keeps pushing at a higher speed. Do you have rubber bands on all motor wheels? It might help to remove the rubber on one side of your engine, that might make it slow down less in turns. If that doesn't help, go with Toastie and just put the motors on one end of the train.
  25. Duq
    You had enough space in the front, so why did you decide to put the receiver in the cab? Is it because you don't like the look of the lens? Does having it in the cab cause problems with line of sight when you control the train?
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