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Duq

Eurobricks Counts
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Everything posted by Duq

  1. Duq
    Well done! Lots of nice detalls and clever engineering. I must remember the trick with the monkey-motor, that could come in handy.
  2. Duq
    No, Lego won't start selling individual carriages again. They just don't sell. An underground market for pre-bult model? That exists. There's the MOC shop on Bricklink: https://moc.bricklink.com/pages/moc/mocitem.page?idmocitem=2106 And you can find Lego MOCs on eBay and Catawiki. Lego won't release an Australian train any time soon. Too much of a niche market I'm afraid.
  3. Duq
    Have you tried searching these forums?
  4. Duq
    That's fixing the symptom, not the cause. Easiest solution for you though, not being the parent of the little brat. Long term solution should be teaching the kid what he or she can and cannot smash. Parents often amaze me at events and rarely in a good way. Some tell the kids they can't touch things and then pick up a car or train themselves, some happily watch as their kids play with minifigs on the display, try and grab or derail trains, and some parents dump the kids at the Lego display and don't care what they do at all.
  5. Duq
    Can't help you with shipping to the US. I've just bought the instructions and stickers for the class 99 and built it from my collection plus a little Bricklink. I have to say I found them most helpful and that little steam engine is a joy to build.
  6. Duq
    Agree with Alco. As for the wheel configuration you mentioned, fixed leading axle and then four drivers with only one flanged, I don't think that will work. You'll probably find that the distance between the fixed & flanged axles is too long. The leading axle needs to pivot, then you can have two of the driver axles with flanged wheels. Which two works best is a matter of trial and error. On my BR 65 I have a similar configuration (but with a trailing bogie at the back). I have the axles close together with the flanged wheels on the first and last axle. It just about works but is not reliable on points so I would suggest flanged wheels on the 2nd & 4th or 1st and 3rd axle.
  7. Duq
    As PeteM said, it's just how Lego runs their themes. Every 3 years you'll see a new wave of City Fire sets, every 3 years there's a Police wave, and every 4 years there's a new freight/cargo train, a passenger train and a station. Unfortunately those passenger trains tend to be the high-speed variety with big single-mold fronts. My favourit passenger train from recent years is 7938 from 2010, a nice commuter train with a brick-build front. Anyway, expect another bundle of three City Train sets next year.
  8. Duq
    That's a problem with parenting, not with your shelf. From my experience that's an absolute non-issue. Unless you're putting kilo's of weight in your trains and even then I'd be more worried about the wheels than the axles.
  9. Duq
    Don't forget SBrick (and possibly PFx Brick in the not too distant future) as an alternative to the PF Receiver.
  10. Duq
    If by signs you mean signals that actually make a train stop, that can't be done with PF unfortunately...
  11. Duq
    I hope you're good with tools and soldering... Running multiple trains on the same loop while controlling them separately is not possible. If you want that you'll need to invest in a DCC system and build DCC units into your train motors. If you want to use RC control with 9V power from the track you could modify a 9V motor to work as power pickup or make your own metal wheel sets for power pickup. Either way is going to take a good bit of work.
  12. Duq
    Hi DEAD1974, Quite the username... This is one of the recurring questions about Lego trains. The consensus is: if you have seriously deep pockets then by all means, get into 9V. Otherwise don't bother and use Power Functions. 9V track is expensive and that's likely to get worse with time. 9V train motors are expensive and are getting more rare - the electric motors inside do not have eternal life. 9V is expensive now and will only get worse. 12V has the nostalgia factor and the remote control switches and signals. Unfortunately it has the problems of 9V but worse and on top of that the track is fragile (the clips that hold the rails to the sleepers tend to break).
  13. Duq
    He's not joking. I'm guessing you don't have children? Oh, and you know the great thing with Lego? You can put the train back together after the crash! :-P
  14. Duq
    There isn't "such a market" for wider curves. The ME Models Kickstarter project had 260 backers. The absolute minimum run for Lego to produce a set is 10.000. And that's using existing elements. To justify creating a new mold they would have to sell even more than that. So I'm not surprised Lego aren't making other track geometry pieces. Unfortunately.
  15. Duq

    Engine Shed V3

    Duq replied to Duq's topic in LEGO Train Tech

    @Chromeknight It's based on this: Motorised points (partially buried) by Mike Pianta, on Flickr Which in turn is based this: PF points motor by Duq, on Flickr
  16. Duq

    Engine Shed V3

    Duq replied to Duq's topic in LEGO Train Tech

    Oops... Thanks. I'll see if I can post a picture of the roof sections. Thank you! You can't really see it in these pictures but the entire layout is on MILS-based sections so the track is two bricks above the baseplate. The bottom of the pits is on the baseplate.
  17. Duq
    I have had an engine shed in my layouts at various times. The last one was built for the traverser I had a few years ago and because of that it had an awkward spacing of the tracks that made it tricky to include in a layout. I was also getting bored with the thing so it was time to use my Lugbulk brick-bricks and build another one. Train Shed v3 by Duq, on Flickr It has a machine workshop attached at the back: Train Shed v3 by Duq, on Flickr Which has a full interior: Train Shed v3 by Duq, on Flickr And I mean full interior: Train Shed v3 by Duq, on Flickr
  18. Duq
    I am done with ME Models. We're at an event this weekend and the R88 loop is working fine. Most sections that were simply bagged after the last event had survived and putting the loop back together didn't take long. However. This layout was meant to feature a loop of R72 metal track along the R88's. I placed an order and paid $200+ 75 days ago. After a few friendly messages from Mike they have stopped replying to emails and PMs. I haven't got so much as a tracking number. That's not bad customer service, that's just rude and ignorant. I'm looking forward to alternative solutions because I will never order from ME Models again.
  19. Duq
    The City cargo train sets are usually good parts packs to get you started on trains, especially if you get them on offer somewhere. Depending on what trains you want to build you may not need all the parts though. You don't need magnets to couple cars, there are many solutions with Technic parts, and in many countries trains have no buffers. You can use the Technic axles and small train wheels but as has been mentioned they have more friction than the metal axles. Unless you plan to use your train in the garden there's no problem with axles rusting.
  20. Duq
    Hey, it's good to know it's still being looked after. What's the best way to contact you with questions, issues and feature requests?
  21. Duq
    Nice! I like the passing station! I've done a similar thing with a commuting train as well as a train on a loop that pauses at a platform. Can't beat the RCX for this sorta thing. Do you use a pair of light sensors to shine at eachother? How does that perform? I've used PF LEDs opposite the light sensor.
  22. Duq
    I have a problem with the grid layer. If I set the grid size to 32 studs (I want to get coordinates for each baseplate, not per 3x3 table) then the spacing of the grid letters and numbers is off. By the time you get to P the letters have skipped an entire column. I can't find a mention of this problem anywhere else. Am I the first to notice this problem? Is BlueBrick still being maintained/fixed? [Edit] Have since figured out that it's not setting the grid to 32 that's the problem, it's when you set the grid to 32 and leave the sub-divisions at 3, even when you turn them off. Apparently the fact that 32 doesn't divide into 3 causes Bluebrick to mess up drawing the grid.
  23. Duq
    If you have the Emerald Night set you also have instructions to motorise it: check the last pages of book 2. http://cache.lego.com/bigdownloads/buildinginstructions/4581168.pdf
  24. Duq
    I received my pledge shipment a long time ago and I've happily used those curves. When the metal curves were released I ordered some, paid the order and was told they had shipped. That was 55 days ago. No parcel has been delivered. I've repeatedly asked for a tracking number but recent emails have been ignored. At this point I'm not sure I'll ever see anything in return for the $200+ they've got off me.
  25. Duq
    It's clever, but not interesting enough for me right now. The best bit for me is the outside position of the lever. A crossover is nice, but I can make one with two normal switches and a dremel. I'm lucky enough to already own a double crossover. What I would really like to see is R72 metal switches with a crossover option.
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