vmln8r

http://www.isogawastudio.co.jp/legostudio/toranomaki/en/download.html

Zblj: http://www.brothers-brick.com/2009/08/30/how-to-clean-yellowed-lego-bricks-to-make-classic-space-sets-look-new-news/

^ I agree; the buggy unit is pretty compact for what you get. And I think even with V2 receivers, you'll still run into the current limiter-thing.

That front end is spectacular.

There's an explanation on Technicbricks: http://www.technicbricks.com/2012/11/lego-power-functions-incompatibilities.html

Figure out a better solution, such as: Resorting to glue just seems lazy.

This isn't some attempt to claim credit for snapping certain bricks together in a certain configuration; but I'm curious if you're aware of this ?

Very interesting, that set is surprisingly recent.

Mocking another member's english? Lame. I thought you had to be over 18 to register here?

Instructions PF Pistol...

That said, if you're looking for feedback, I think this would benefit from some real-life building, to refine the construction techniques, and some better wheels.

Failing a complete redesign, what about parallel with one of each pair of LAs?

What it says on the can. Very clever usage of the Star Wars planets:

Does anyone know if these parts are in stock? About three times cheaper than BL.

It's around 400 parts; 180 or so for the ray itself. LXF file: http://www.brickshel...8r/Misc/ray.lxf

Thanks for your comments everyone, they're much appreciated. Lost_In_Noise, I'm working on an LXF file, but in the meantime, more pictures can be found here. Very true. Speaking of which, did you have any involvement in this set? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0QM13kj0bX0

I recently got the chance to see some rays up close. The wing movement is just fascinating; I just had to build one. Unlike the real thing (which has an undulating-type wing), this is merely a two-part compound wing. I had planned to use something similar to mahjqa's da Vinci flyer, which achieves a nice fluid movement with two out of phase cranks per wing. What I eventually settled on was something like a scissor-lift, except there's no connection between the overlapping parts of the 'X': This type of wing design requires one crank per wing, which means more space can be allocated to the flaps, which do the job of powering the thing. Then it just took some tinkering with different mounting placements to achieve the ideal range of motion: Just to be clear, all the propulsion is provided by the stingray, no hidden props or such. Power and flotation devices are up top: All in all, it was a very satisfying build; sometimes getting everything right is frustrating, but this time, it all came together cleanly and relatively quickly.

Forget the little things. Trying to get close is the fun part, right? I've had my 8878's for almost two years. I use them -all the time- and they're still going strong.

Nice review. It's got some interesting techniques (well, for its time), like the cockpit construction and landing gear, but without the robotics of the main Cybermaster set (8482), the whole 'build on a PC' thing seems silly. Considering the absence of a fig, this would be a kick in the guts: Also, I noticed some funky photo editing in your review that looks damn time-consuming. GIMP is a free photo-editor, and I believe old versions of Adobe products can be downloaded here: http://www.adobe.com...oads/index.html. Both of those should allow you to adjust levels and clear up your background more easily.

^ Care to share any gossip?

Thanks, it was nice to see that the 'Technic aesthetic' was well-received. In other news, the bodyshell got some reworking:

^ Thanks for letting me know! Here's the instructions: LXF file: http://www.brickshel...sc/ateamvan.lxf Let me know if you spot anything weird in the file, it was done in a rush. It's been submitted to rebrickable where a parts list should be available (480 or so parts in all).

It seems a lot of power is needed to overcome the friction in the tracklinks. Maybe replace with some smooth parts such as or + ?

Thanks everyone. It uses an XL to drive (40:8>20:28); the drifts are with plastic wheels. Strikeman, there aren't any friction pins in the motorised version. I'll try to post breakdown pictures/instructions later.