zephyr1934

Very nice looking little steamer

Great work! You captured a very detailed prototype quite well. Though as for the prototype, I don't know about the slogan, potentially a little too Soylent for my tastes (grin)

I think BrickTracks was first to announce the R104 switch, but TrixBrix got their 3D printed variant to market long before BT was able to get the molded track to market. Whatever the history, these wide radius curves and switches are enabling a level of detail in lego trains that is incredible. But none of that is the reason for my post. The 12v track was a comprehensive system that had all sorts of remote control. Most of those functions were abandoned with the move to 9v. One key element that persisted into 9v was the fact that the switches would cut power to the opposing movement. So you could isolate a siding (any 9v motors would be stopped) while trans ran on the mainline, or vice versa. As a result of the built in power cutoff in the switches, most 9v builders never worried about having to explicitly isolated track sections. My understanding of the new P40 switches is that they are a marvel of engineering (so far I've only seen the prototypes shared at Brickworld last year), but they are designed with the vision that they will fit into a DCC-like world of operation. In other words, power is always on to both branches. In the long run, I believe the intent is to have smart motors that are told when to go and at what speed (like DCC), but the stock Lego 9v motors are dumb DC, apply power and they go. Even in this world with DCC-like control, many users are likely to stick with DC power. In using P40 switches for DC operation, you will need to isolate different track segments and have separate power supply lines. This can be done in pure lego for a lot of $$$ (polarity switches, extension wires, and track connections) or non-Lego for much less (e.g., stereo wire and soldered connections to the track). Within all of this, you need isolation joints. The easiest method I've come up with is to take clear packing tape, apply it to itself (sticky side to sticky side, so you essentially have a non-glued strip of thick plastic tape) and cut it to size so that it will fit between 9v track rail joints. This way it is non-destructive and can easily be undone if you want to rearrange your track. No matter what, as you head into the world of P40 switches with normal Lego 9v train motors, as long as you want different sections of track at different speeds (including a train parked on a siding) you will also need to have isolated joints. Fortunately, isolated joints are not difficult to make.

Thank you thank you, though I must admit, I think the motorization might outshine the rods in this case and the motorization went almost as if the original set designer had planned for the two necessary open spaces to be where they were.

That's a crazy tight build, great work. Would have been tough competition for the BMR critters competition a year or two back.

Very nice! That's a big engine

Excellent!

Sure thing, I've made rods over 30 studs long before and the holes can go wherever you want them (most folks go with half stud offsets). Price is based on length. Custom parts do need to wait for my next fab, so allow for over four weeks for custom arrangements. Just use the "contact us" link on trainedbricks.com

OMG, I didn't even notice that... Of course I am (assuming Lego doesn't do something really strange). But as always, I can make up whatever unusual hole arrangement and spacing is needed for stock sets, MODs and MOCs on an as needed basis.

Train motors and bogie plates have a short pin connector on top, so they do not fit full deprth technic beams and connectors. I'd suggest using technic plates or technic half beams for connecting train motors and bogie plates. Whatever you wind up doing, it is usually best to make a physical mocup with the key features in the right spot. For example, it doesn't matter if you use a 7 long beam in the prototype even if the final version uses a 5 long. What matters is getting the connecting hole in the right spot to test the clearance of the other features. This point is particularly important to make sure the truck can rotate without obstruction from the side frame. It looks like you might also be trying to give the truck the ability to pitch forward and back for uneven track, which makes physical prototyping all the more important since the two degrees of rotation could conflict with each other.

Actually it is driving the front axle, but yes. Note that I only put traction bands on the front axle, so the rear is really just for show. Most if not all of the propulsion is coming from the front axle. Driving on one axle is probably best for most steam engines, otherwise, on curves (especially R40) the different axles will fight each other due to the non-equal radii of the two rails. In fact I've heard some folks say only use a traction band on a single wheel so that the other slide can slip, but I prefer to have traction on both rails. Mind you, this is a light train and the circuit cube is a small motor and small battery. So there is a limit to what you can move with it.

Thanks for the kind words. I was amazed at how well the circuit cubes fit in, it was as if the stars aligned

I am happy to present my MOD (actually two MODs) to Lego set 76423, Hogwarts Express with Hogsmead Station. As you likely know, last month Lego released their 91st version of the Hogwarts Express. I think this one is the nicest standard gauge version Lego has released so far. Yeah, that is not saying much, but I think the engine is very well proportioned at 6 wide. That means it feels even smaller scale than the city trains, but if you ignore the fact that it is tiny next to a minifig, it has good proportions and I like how they hid the flanges on the drivers. I've now made two MODs to the locomotive that retain the general appearance but enhance it in various ways. The first MOD is simply cosmetic, adding side rods to the locomotive. I really wanted to also add connecting rods but the locomotive is just so tight at 6 wide that anything to add connecting rods has too much of a trade-off. Either going over 8 wide on such a short engine or adding a few studs between the driver wheels and the cylinders. The latter is definitely doable, but it would be a much larger reworking than what I was aiming for. The second MOD is more ambitious... ... I know, doesn't look much different in pictures, but that's because pictures don't move. A Circuit Cubes motor fits nicely in among the drive wheels And the Bluetooth controller/battery fits within the space of the existing tender The power cube easily pops out for access to the power switch and charging port The spacing works with the stock Circuit Cube wire I did make one purely mechanical mod to the tender, removing the center axle to facilitate rounding R40 curves while retaining the wheel holder to maintain appearances. Access to full instructions for both MODs can be found here for free Enjoy!

Ugh! Lego comes so close to something that could be useful to AFOLs and then at the last second swerves and makes it unworkable. Sigh...

Lionel trains are pretty close to the size of six wide Lego trains, so as long as you are comfortable with 6 wide city trains running through your Lego City or Winter Village models, you can easily swap in or add a Lionel train too. In other words, your favorite City or Friends sets should work great.

Nice!

Okay, that's cool. I still prefer L-gauge and do not anticipate buying 76405 (too much of it is devoted to the figures for my tates), but the set has just climbed several notches in my personal assessment. If the orient express winds up g-gauge and is attractive I might just jump in though Splitting hairs here, lego still made it, its just that Buwizz made it work (grin). Did Buwizz ever say what they used for the smoke generator? I've heard is that the jumbo train wheels are difficult to make work even on larger radius curves and I don't think they have blind drivers.

Ball bearing wheels will also be very helpful in reducing your power needs

Cool! Now to work that into a 9v layout for delivering power (grin)

Circuit Cubes is great for smaller trains 9v is great because you only have to find space for the motor and no batteries required. PF and PU are great because they do not have the power drop at each track connection (when pulling heavy trains), because they have all plastic tracks there is a great variety of track geometries possible, and you have much more options for motors- including powering a steam engine with the drive wheels. Of the two, I like PF better because the engine does need constant connection with the controller and there were official Lego rechargeable batteries. There are work arounds for PU but... On the other hand, the fact that PU allows automation, sensors, and feedback control can be a bonus though. So no universal winner

You know, according to google, G gauge is 45 mm between the rails. While the 1/32 scale HP express (76405) looks to have 5 2/3 studs between the rails or 45.3 mm. Has anyone tried it on G gauge track??? If it does fit, that could be an interesting new dimension for official lego trains.

Nice build

I highly doubt Lego will go beyond the size of the current steam wheels they have now unless they make it a non-running train. Even if they wanted to cater to AFOL train heads, the engine either has to navigate R40 curves or it would have to be a different gauge. So my guess is 4-6-2.

Thank you and agreed, rods seem like a very simple and obvious part for Lego to produce. Yes, it is one more part, but they produce one new steam engine every year or two. Good call... though with all the red it still makes me think of this: even though James is a 2-6-0

That's right. I'd happily take a suggestion. You hadn't said why the technic axle or that you were using glue, so my surmising was correct. These are important points for someone who is attempting to replicate (I say as someone who finds this design enticing). You expanded on that in the other thread. Glue is as good as anything else in this situation for the non-purist. One could also 3D print a link of exactly the right length but it would probably be more expensive. Great work