Andy Glascott

That is beautiful. I'm getting an increasing itch to build an American steam loco now....

The best way to design 12v layouts in Bluebrick that have multiple loops is to make sure the first straight track you place on the 2nd loop is right next to (and the ends line up) a section of straight in the first loop. If not right next to then exactly 8 studs gap or multiples of. From there it should be easy enough to link the two (or more) loops using points/switches. There are lots of 12 layout plans on Brickshelf, just search "12v layout", hopefully they'll show you what's possible and give you some ideas. Andy

Nice layout Duq, good to see some brick.ie stuff on here.

Just watched that over breakfast, nearly spat my cornflakes out! Great video, loved the rewind/rebuild moments.

Seriously cool. That is all.

If I had the space and track I'd love to have long smooth curves, it does look so much more realistic. That said, I've grown up with and used Lego track for over 30 years and it does work well in confined space; a 3 to 4 metre by 1 to 2 metre table/board doesn't leave much room for longer/non-standard curves so L gauge curves are fine by me.

That looks fantastic, really good build.

That's fantastic, well done. Like Tony said, you've got some great detailing in there.

My last layout (and next when I complete my house move) was largely 12v and across 4 modules. I used double-sided carpet tape to stick Lego baseplates to the chipboard base for each section (96 studs wide) and made sure the track sections lined up with the edges of the boards. It's incredibly strong stuff, the sections could be tilted through 90 degrees without anything falling off. Lining up and connecting the sections is tricky with 12v; I used 1x8 plates at the end of each track section instead of the regular sleepers/ties and it's easier to take the connecting 12v power track out, connect the sections and then replace the power track. When it comes to powering the sections for 12v adding signals, points etc just adds to the challenge but it can be done. I kept all the extras to two modules in the middle and built in all the control switches etc to the layout, that way I only had to add a 12v transformer to it on the day. It took me about 90 minutes to put it al together for the one exhibition I've done so far but needed 2 of us to transpoirt each section (I had bespoke cardboard boxes made for the sections to store it at home). There are Brickshelf pics of the build and some details I've referred to here at this link.

I really like that! Lots of detail, looks of light within it and mix of modern and historical architecture.

Have you found images of Toton depot? It's run by DB Schenker, used as a maintenance depot but used to be a huge freight marshalling yard. Still has a lot of floodlights etc. This image search might help, and if you want detailed pics of any of the light stands let me know I can go and take photos for you it's only a 10 minute walk from me.

I run a number of 12v motors that used these tyres for traction, after a while they decay and fall apart and the price of replacements is horrible. However, bicycle inner tube does exactly the same thing and this one fits perfectly - http://www.decathlon.co.uk/caa-700x18-25-presta-bike-inner-tube-80mm-id_8243121.html I'm sure other brands make the same size tube too. Just cut a small section out of it to slip onto the wheels. I don't know how well it will work with PF but it's a cheap alternative.

I'm not convinced I like the original but you've replicated it really well and the buffer idea is worth borrowing.

The tunnels look short enough to stick an arm into to recover derailments... Great design too btw.

Almost all of my stuff is 6 wide, largely because most of my track is from the 12v era when points meant that two tracks ran side by side and 6 (or 7) wide trains can pass easily. I also have and run a 7740 and 7745 as well as a 9v Metroliner so 6 wide is in keeping with those. My large steam loco (based on the Princess Coronation Class in the UK) is 8 wide at the cylinders and 7 at the cab - I'm trying to find a way of narrowing the cylinders a stud so it can pass everything else.... Tony, on the basis that Eurostar trains run in the UK and Europe I'd guess at scaling British and European trains the same, certainly the track gauge is the same here and on (most of) the continent.

Just bruised my chin as it hit the floor... Amazing work again Bricktrix, thank you for the detailed technique images/notes.

There are pics of 6 different layouts I've built in the last 10 years on my Brickshelf pages.

I run 9v and use 2 power supplies, one for each loop. I leave a tiny gap between the track on the points to avoid a short. To switch a train from one loop to the other just make sure you reverse one so the circuits match up. That way when the motor bridges the gap it doesn't short out. It's not ideal but it works, a reversing loop will just short out.

I've used banking at various times and not had problems with trains tipping inwards. I've simply put a 1x2 plate under the outer edge of the sleepers.

There are a few of us. I grew up in Dublin, been in the UK 18 years. Have you found www.brick.ie, the Irish LUG?

Pics as promised. The first one shows where to cut - there is a gap in the plastic under the metal between the 1st and 2nd sleepers on the slip track, I've circled it. Cut there, I used a simple hacksaw and fine sand paper to smooth off the ends. The second pic shows two points cut and lined up. To make sure I cut in the right place I used plates (as in this pic) to line the point up with one raised a couple of plates over the other so that they lined up one above the other. (I don't have enough uncut points to post a pic I'm afraid...) For security etc I join the modified points with a couple of 2x4 plates which holds everything in place. Depending on how accurately you cut you might have a tiny gap between the two sets of points. You can either bridge this with a small piece of adhesive metal tape or leave it. I tend to leave the gap as it means I can run two trains with separate power supplies in different directions. To switch trains from one track loop to the other just make sure both are running in the same direction when the motor crosses the gap. A couple of practice runs and you'll get the hang of it very quickly. One last piece of advice when cutting; if in any doubt, cut off less than you think you need to. You can always cut off more but it's very difficult to replace it! Hope that helps, if it's not clear please ask. Andy

I'll take some pics tomorrow to illustrate where I cut.

Hi, you don't necessarily need a double cross-over to link two lops of track - I cut back the turnout/slip track on 9v points to create this pair of loops: Cutting the track gave me an 8 stud gap between the loops, if you use points as they and join the turnout/slip tracks you end up with a much wider gap between loops. Hope this helps.

Very impressive, looks really sleek.

Cracking build sir, a fabulous model. Well done.