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cavegod

Eurobricks Counts
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Everything posted by cavegod

  1. ah but i see a flaw in your flaw, i haven't built the top of the front yet!
  2. A few pictures for you, you will note the similarites and identical parts to Marshall's so don't tell it's the same, i would just like constructive critisism.
  3. The front tracks will steer as a car as i believe thats the only way it would have been able to steer in RL.
  4. Well i now have a working steering system, just don't know wether it will work under load
  5. the only mistake with the hindenburg was hydrogen, be fine with helium.
  6. i don't see the point as they more or less identical it's quite easy to build a moc of this scale when sombody already is, i get to see what it will look like before i build lol the suction tube is underneath near the boarding ramp, i thought of having it go up and down but can't see the benefit for all the work it would require..?
  7. nope your right 1x3 slopes are the closest.
  8. nice, mine has no technic frame but more or less the same and a lot further behind! those rear engines are looking good! i see you have built them on plates and attached that section to verticle studs? i'm not convinced on the 1x3 slopes for the front 2 x 4 would be better? 1 x 4 is not produced unfortunately.
  9. Yes i can vouch for the size as mine has the same dimensions it's gonna be one big beast! and surprisingly not that heavy so far.
  10. Thanks Jamie i've never been able to find that when FBTB changed, Yep use those instructions for the basic frame and then ad lib everything else to your own liking! although the frame is a little to long.
  11. Hi Charles, i'm sorry but there are no instructions, you will be able to build it from the pictures, and to help you the frame is technic bricks, and the sides are held on with tech 1/2 pins. good luck and don't forget a build thread!

  12. from that picture it's a yes, just look at the right side, you can clearly see more of the side at the top than the bottom.
  13. no you haven't i count 2 studs wide at the bottom and the top, the top tapers in so should be wider there than the bottom.
  14. i agree also i am not putting that angle on mine either and also won't be putting the angle of the front sides and will be keeping them veticle. i understand that it won't be acurate and will therefore be giving myself a 1000 lashes with a litghsabre whip!
  15. hey ya b@@@@r thats how i was going to build that area lol!
  16. No update yet??
  17. Well i decided to put all my brown/reddish brown in a big box and gave it a good stir, so whatever part i need the colour will depend on what i find first lol!
  18. also i'm not convinced it will drive when finished as it will weigh a lot! each crawler assembly will weigh 500g so thats 2kg without the body!
  19. now help me out here i need opinions, do you think i should mix brown and reddish brown as in the previous pic or should i build as i think and the bottom and underneath in brown and the rest in reddish brown, i thought about drk bluey for greebs etc or should i stick with brown/reddish all over? i have lots of dark orange etc for the rust.
  20. Well i was inspired by Marshall B's Sandcrawler so i needed a project that will take a long time to build mainly because i don't own any brown lego! i am aiming to have it pf controlled with functions of Forward/reverse left/right Front ramp up and down Crane in out and up down lights wether all this is possibly or not i do not know yet but i will give it a dam good try. heres where i am at so far excuse the random colours for now.
  21. thanks for that very interesting, but i don't need accelaration it just needs to move at about 1 mph. having never used PF before i'm just worried that there will not be enough go in the battery box for 4 large motors to move 10kg of lego.
  22. so i could then have a battery box per motor and use the PF reciever to power a motor to switch all the battery boxes on and off to control the motors, thus giving each motor full amps. I can sort the problem out when i know whether it will drive with 4 XL motors on 1 reciever.
  23. has anybody connected two battery boxes to one motor and is the voltage 9v or 18v?my only other option would be using a 9v nicad and just soldering a connecting plug to a pf battery box, that way i could have as many 1.5 cells as i want in parallel but, it's not the lego way.
  24. but recievers are expensive and that will limit the number of functions i can have as i presume there is a maximum of 4 recievers i can use due to 4 channels on the reciever. if i have more than 5 recievers then some will operate when other functions areoperated?
  25. hi all, i am thinking that 4 large motors on one battery box will be a big drain, so is there a way to connect 2 or more battery boxes together to get more amps but still have 9v? or are there better ways?
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