legoman666

I was backer #3! Can't wait. Hope it's successful.

Got my wheels installed today, they work fantastic! http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=89181&view=getnewpost Very pleased. My only concern is running 1.5A through that tiny 36awg wire. Now I just need about 8 more sets just like it... :)

In order to run on my LUGs displays, I had to make a few modifications to the power plant on my EMD... A few bridge rectifiers... Metal wheels and pickups... Pickups from here: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=79145 Each pair of pickups gets 2x 2A bridge rectifiers in parallel. I wanted one wheelset to be able to power the whole train briefly without overloading. I added a second input to each buck boost converter so I could connect the 9v pickups. All back together. Lots of electronic goodies in here. Too bad I can't put this weight on the drive wheels... Tracks are electrified to 12V by means of an ATX power supply. At full speed with no other cars besides the two locomotive's and the electronics autorack, the motors pull 1.25A On the straights and 1.5A on turns. http://youtu.be/HO1q60VM5ec The train can run on battery or powered rails, but not both at once. Have to turn off batteries if running on powered track.

Large eBay train lots are my favorite. They almost always sell for under their value. I'll buy them, sell a few of the sets to make back my purchase price, then keep the rest of the pieces. I've been doing this for a few years and have accumulated a large collection of trains and train parts.

I've been able to snag a bunch of track recently on eBay from lucky buy it nows from people who didn't know what they had. Got a boxed 6921 for $90, 5 long straights & 9 short straights for $57, and a 6991 for $125. I had been looking for about a year to find these deals though.

My 6 car HE has 2 PF motors and doesn't have any problems slipping. 2 motors for 6 cars is almost the limit though, if I added more cars I definitely add more motors. What IR controller are you using? The on/off model or the one with speed control? The simple on/off model will make the wheels slip.

Finally got a reply from Lego: "Thanks for contacting us! I've looked into your question and it looks like we're not going to be selling the V2 IR Receiver on our shop-at-home site. This part is exclusive (at the moment) to set 9398 4X4 Crawler. However, if you need a v2 we are able to sell it to you through our consumer service advisors, but according to our parts experts, the v2 receiver's extra throughput isn't really needed in other models. If you wish to order the part through our advisors, the total for your order would be $27.28." That $27.28 is for a single receiver.

Anyone?

I'm trying to say that the amount of overhang on turns will not be very different between FBBF or BFFB as long as the wheel base is rigid to the chassis.

If the axis of rotation is in the center of a FBBF config, then a BFFB would be almost the same as long as you kept the axis the same.

Got a 6991 with about 95% of the pieces for $125. All of the track, baseplates, motor, electronics and bogeys are present. Pieces are still shiny, just dusty.

I've done 7 & 8, prefer 7. 8 makes everything else look too small.

Ebay or Bricklink. Expect to pay between $2-3 (USD) per section. Curves are worthless. If you're a member of a LUG that participates in LUGBulk, straights are on the menu this year.

Fantastic, love me some tachikoma!

One more modification complete to strengthen the front transmission. No more random self dismantling. Here we go: Ignore the wires ;) Nearly identical exteriors. A few small differences for the keen of sight. The bits that makes it go. A pair of buck-boost DC-DC converters bump my Eneloops from 7.2V to 10V. I bypassed the resettable fuses in the battery packs because I kept tripping them. A lot of time went in to engineering this transmission. I wish I could show it in its entirety, but alas, I am not taking apart the whole thing :P About 16ft long. My setup is 6 72"x30" tables. It barely slows down around turns.

eBay is correct, but technically they're decals. I brushed over them with decal setting solution (essentially clear coat). Clear nail polish doesn't work, there's some ingredient in it that dissolves plastic and decals. Without the clear coat, they like to flake off, especially if you have to take the model apart. I also added cabin lights to both the dummy and the powered locomotive.

Decals all applied! I added 2 20W buck boost converters in between the AA battery packs and the IR receivers to bump the voltage from 7.2 to 10. They work great, so great that I started tripping the resettable fuses in the battery boxes. I had to bypass them with wire. The train flies now! It's also longer than the photo shows, there are 3 auto racks, 2 ttx double stack cars, 2 box cars, 2 coal hoppers, and 1 tank car. All 7W and about 16 feet long in total. The added voltage also increases the torque and the front half of the locomotive will occasionally push itself apart. Another redesign might be in order... The rear transmission has no problem, as it is designed differently. I'll try to get some more pictures.

Neat, nice and simple. Would love to see a second with the PF bits.

Our LUG used 3 9V train transformers per loop. There were 2 loops. We were, however, using the track to power IR receivers, not to power the train motors directly.

Anyone get any yet?

I have a locomotive that uses 4 L motors which are powered by 2 IR receivers in parallel which are then powered by 2 AA battery packs that are filled with Eneloops. I was unhappy with the top speed provided by only 7.2V. I just finished (Literally, 15 minutes ago) attaching 1 of these to each of the AA battery packs: http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1439.l2649 They are after the battery packs but before the IR receivers. I set the output to 10V and my train zips right along now :D No more droop when the batteries aren't full. I have all of the electronics (except the motors) in a 7 stud wide autorack car that's 48 studs long. I also had to bypass the resettable fuse in the AA battery packs; I kept tripping it at high speed. Working great. FWIW, I'm an electrical engineer. Edit, lol, just noticed this was from 2013, not 2014. Oh well.

Pretty cool. Was that recorded with a gopro?

V2 can output 3x the current of v1.1 and also uses less power in the process. I have a long train powered by 4 L motors that are fed by 2 v1.1 receivers. I'd like to replace them with v2s. My LUG also has some trains that have a single v1.1 that would benefit from being replaced with v2.

I use Eneloops in every single one of my trains and remote controls.