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legoman666

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by legoman666

  1. legoman666
    The trucks are a modified version of the one for which there are instructions in Railbricks issue 6. The only original part of it that I am responsible for is the trim. Thanks for looking! Should post a small update tonight. I replaced the wheels on it with some nice steel ones.
  2. legoman666
    I have a couple fistfulls of the bearing element I'm willing to part with. I'll trade them for the axles and wheels or couplers. I use the axles and wheels to make my own sets, so I'm left with the holder piece. I've got maybe... 40?
  3. legoman666
    I'd be concerned with the roofs weight pushing the walls apart. Not sure if it's heavy enough to be a problem though.
  4. legoman666
    45 degree slope with no jaggedness. Probably more trouble than it's worth.
  5. legoman666
    Something else I had printed. Small plastic inserts that you can put in to an 8mm hole in the NWSL O gauge wheels. Both the inserts and wheels are cheap. Seem to work OK. http://shop.osorail.com/ item # 96000912 https://www.shapeways.com/product/TUK2SNQCP/wheel-insert?optionId=56095738
  6. legoman666
    I modified the small flange wheel to be fatter. No longer has the issues with being too narrow, but still suffers from the flange being too small and so catching on the joint between track pieces. They will probably work fine on rolling stock, but I don't recommend using them for drive wheels. You could sand down the flange to make it steeper and they'd work better. I can't change the model though because the outer rim of the flange is already the minimum thickness for 3d printing. https://www.shapeways.com/product/GE4KBN9QR/small-flange-lego-wheel
  7. legoman666
    You could still use the PF train motor for a faux 3 axle truck. If you trim it out as if there are 3 axles, but in reality there are only 2, the trim will hide the fact that there are only 2. However, if you really do want 3 axles, then PF L motor is the way to go. The M motor isn't really powerful enough if you only have 1. Either one will be very difficult to hide in a 6 wide American diesel, since the rear of the train would only be 4 wide and the motor is 3W. You could use tiles to cover it though. As for only powering 1 truck, sure, it should work. All of Lego's official train sets only have 1 powered truck. You'll have to do some experimentation of your own.
  8. legoman666
    Ballasting these is a lot of work.
  9. legoman666
    Mount tiles vertically on some http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=99780 put the brackets as low as you can and the battery box can rest on them. Coincidentally I made the same locomotive in the same color scheme: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=100590 If I had a digital model of it, I'd share.
  10. legoman666
    Not sure why you consider this failed. Just looks like a prototype to me. You should see how some of my locos look before they're finished.... The rear motor can be mounted vertically and the battery box needs to be as low as possible without dragging on the track. It'll fit either horizontal or vertical, depending on how you build. Additionally, there's no need for the polarity switch. Just change the gearing in the bogie by moving the gears to the other side of the axle. As Commander Wolf said, the couplers will designate which end of the bogie is the leading or tailing edge. Brick on.
  11. legoman666
    Thanks! They are O gauge Microscale waterslide decals. I don't like using them because they are so brittle, but there aren't really any other options. We have one of these at work: http://www.fujifilmusa.com/products/graphic_arts_printing/large-format-printing/printers/acuity/advance-select/index.html which can print on to clear vinyl sticker or window cling, but it's not operational yet. Has white ink and everything. I hope to use it in the future.
  12. legoman666
    Done I guess.
  13. legoman666
    If you want your trains to have more oomph, you need to get rid of the Lego 9v regulator and use something that can output more current than 300mA. Could always double up 2 Lego regulators if you don't want to delve in to model train stuff
  14. legoman666
    Thanks ;) you'll like my fuel tank on my newest model then: http://i.imgur.com/iTHReHw.jpg http://i.imgur.com/qnqocxg.jpg The reason the BNSF's fuel tank is so smooth is because of the electronics hidden behind it. The Union Pacific doesn't have anything behind it, so I was able to snot all the correct angles.
  15. legoman666
    Just so, same design. Same locomotive plus PF actually, just a different color scheme. The only way I was able to make a 3 axle truck with the pf train motor was to cheat and trim some technic pins to fit into the extra holes that are on the side of the motor body. They extra set of wheels adds a lot of friction in turns though. You're right about that middle axle on my models, not only does it slide side to side, but if you use flex tubing as an axle instead of a technic axle, it's able to go up and down over uneven track too, which helps keep the weight on the other 2 axles. My CSX is here: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=98313 same trucks, different trim. Thanks for looking!
  16. legoman666
    This specific loco is unpowered, but my others of similar design use PF wheels with L motors and AA battery packs to scoot along the track. The trucks are the same though. There is a one stud gap between each wheel and the center axle floats. They're based off the ones in RAILBRICKS issue 6. My other locomotive's even use metal wheels to pick up power from the track. If you are interested, my other threads detail it more ;)
  17. legoman666
    Is there a way to make the powered duplo locomotive's run continuously until their batteries die rather than just for 10 minutes?
  18. legoman666
    Oops.
  19. legoman666
    It took me almost a year, but I finally got all of those pieces in green. They weren't even expensive, just hard to find. Ignore the kitty and missing headlight.
  20. legoman666
    Thanks! That's hard to say since I don't make digital models of my builds. As a reference, each truck is over 200 pieces. I'd guess around 2000 total? Lots of little pieces.
  21. legoman666
    The programmer I linked to is an Arduino, so yes it's possible.
  22. legoman666
    No kidding. Yellow has been getting quite varied recently. Their dark red is even worse.
  23. legoman666
    The old ones don't: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=4262
  24. legoman666
    On my first 7 wide loco, I made the base 6 wide and used about 100 jumpers to widen it to 7 studs. After I finished the model, I realized that I could have just made the base 7 wide to begin with. My subsequent models didn't use nearly as many jumpers. My most recent one used maybe.... 20? If you're running low, yellow jumpers were on the PAB wall in most Lego stores, so I have a couple cup fulls and I use them when the color is irrelevant. Might still be able to find them in a few stores.
  25. legoman666
    Almost done. Waiting for decals. Got the angles right on the fuel tank. It took some crazy snot to get it to work. Some photos of this specific locomotive show a grey hood: https://www.uprr.com/newsinfo/graphics/media_kit/pinkribbon/up7400_02_hires.jpg Some show a yellow hood. What's weird is that both the photo above and the photo I linked just prior are both from the same Union Pacific press release. Anyway, I did it in grey because I had all of the necessary pieces. More snot. First time I was able to get some decent looking air tanks built. Not putting PF in this model sure made it easier to build. Norfolk Southern pair not pictured. Need to be remodeled.
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