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Paperballpark

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by Paperballpark

  1. Congratulations to the winners! All very well deserved! :)
  2. I'm going to see if I can find some normal small, flat, black rubber bands that will fit around them. I may be able to find some, but I'm not really wanting to cut grooves into the wheels (and don't have tools to do that anyway).
  3. Having just put batteries in the battery box of the Dark Red engine, I have discovered that Big Ben medium driver wheels do not have very good grip. Especially when one of the motor axles has blind drivers on it (so it can go around corners), and the battery box sits directly over that axle and the only non-driven axle. Seriously, it spins the wheels when setting off - even without any wagons - and can't move at all if it has more than two wagons attached. Does anyone know if the Lego rubber bands fit around the Big Ben medium driver wheels? EDIT: To be clear, it's very likely my design which means it's not got enough traction.
  4. The old Southern railway company used 3rd rail, and the current train companies have inherited that infrastructure. It plays havoc with the trains when it snows...!
  5. I'm not being funny here, but your 'disappointment' is based on small grainy photos of part of a catalogue showing a very small part of a preliminary image of the set.Why not wait until you see high quality images of the full, definite set, before making a judgement?
  6. 10243 Parisian Restaurant 10219 Maersk Train 10233 Horizon Express 10241 Maersk Line Triple-E 60051 High-Speed Train (Depending on what it looks like) 60052 Goods Train And of course, the 2014 Winter Village set!
  7. In the UK, £6.99 for a small tub and £11.99 for a large tub.
  8. Someone already linked to a different host.
  9. When will that be?
  10. Ok thanks, I do see what you mean now, but I think there's an important difference between those ones and mine. That is, they've not tried to fit PF into theirs. To be honest I think my trains are long enough as it is - I'm not going to make them any longer. Yes they're not perfect, but I've said there's had to be compromises in order to fit PF in, and I think that's just going to have to be one of them.
  11. Sorry, I was talking about the mail message you sent me on here, with this link, showing a way of using a different motor to get the wheels closer together than mine are. I wasn't meaning your photo that you posted above.
  12. Yeah I'll try a few different things when I get the connecting rods, which should be around the end of this month. For some reason I couldn't reply to your message, but as you'll have seen, how I've done the motor is quite different to the example you found. It's a very interesting idea and good for getting the wheels closer together, but I'm not sure how on earth the motor could be hidden! EDIT: You've given me an idea with that piece between the wheels. I've just checked, and the hole fits a stud quite sturdily, which should be enough to put something in the gap and fill it a bit without it just being a block. Thanks! I'll have a play around with that tomorrow.
  13. Could you post links to the models you've found? I've uploaded pics of it partially disassembled to my flickr, so hopefully you can see how it's done. Let me know if you have any queries. You should also be able to see in the last photo the issue I have with covering the motor between the wheels - there's basically nothing to attach anything onto!
  14. Yeah I'll post some photos of the Dark Red one partially disassembled. I think I could re-work the bit in front of the front wheels, and the bit between the front and middle wheels, but the bit between the middle and back wheels is the motor, and there's nothing else I can think of which would cover the hole and still allow clearance for the connecting rod. Any ideas would be gratefully appreciated!
  15. The 1x2 bricks between the wheels are mainly to cover the hole in the motor and the holes in the technic brick/joins between the technic brick and the motor. I tried it without them when I had the rough build, and I can't quite decide whether to keep them or not. I'm fairly certain I'll remove the one right at the front, because that really doesn't look right, but I can't think of any other way to cover the holes. Once I get the connecting rods, that might help to take the focus away from the holes and I might remove them then. We'll see. I do what what you mean about the bottom half looking 'boxy' though. I have to say though, that I never thought at any point that the cab looks too small. Even looking at them now, I don't see it myself. Oh and I'm not an expert in photography, so for some reason the Dark Red always looks lighter than it is...
  16. Thanks! zephyr1934, now you can see the trains which will use the custom rods I've ordered pacc, I loosely based them on these: Although they're probably a touch too long and the wheels are a bit too small, but it's the best I can do really, within the constraints of LEGO and putting PF into them.
  17. The very first Train MOC I did was a very small 0-4-0 Pannier Tank engine with Power Functions. It's ok, but fitting PF into it kinda threw the proportions off a bit, so I wanted to do a proper one which looked a bit more realistic in shape. So I set to work on one which was, and built it from the various different colour pieces I had, before placing an order for the parts in needed in specific colours. However, I couldn't decide on which colour scheme to have it in, whether to have the top half of it in Black or Dark Red. Eventually, I decided to do two of them, one in each colour. After placing nine Bricklink orders and an order with Big Ben Bricks in America for his Medium Driver wheels, I received all the orders this week, and built them both over the past couple of evenings. The Dark Red one has PF integrated into it, while the Black one can fit PF but doesn't yet have it, instead having brick-built 'placeholders' for the PF gubbins. I'm also waiting on a custom order from America for 13-long connecting rods, which should finish them off nicely. If anyone on here is in the UK, they will be on display (along with my other train MOCs) at the Bradford Brick Show on 8th/9th Feb, and at the Yorkshire Brick Show on 22nd/23rd Feb. So without further ado, to the pictures. Can you spot the differences?
  18. I wasn't expecting the Passenger Train to be of much interest to me, and I wasn't disappointed! The Cargo Train looks like it could be very nice for a city set.
  19. I've checked on mine, I don't think you'll have a problem just using 1x2s and 1x6s.
  20. That's why I decided to use a combination of 1x2, 1x4 and 1x6. In certain areas the 1x8s cross over each other by 4 studs, meaning 1x4s in those areas would be directly above each other.
  21. Very interesting! I don't normally 'do' technic, and just happened across this topic while on the main forum page. However, I'm into trains, and having been on the Mount Washington Cog Railway about 15months ago, I have vague ambitions of recreating the steam train in Lego. I'd use system bricks though, rather than technic. Nevertheless, I'll be very interested to see how this turns out!
  22. The Lone Ranger sets were a 'once and gone' range, meaning that they were only ever going to be around for one season.
  23. The Sand Green 1x2 brick with groove was just starting to become expensive when I did mine. They were the part I spent the most money on, but as you say, they're kind of essential to the look of it. Oh and as an additional strategy, order the rarer (and therefore more expensive) parts first. They're only going to get more expensive!
  24. I'm rather surprised the old fire station burned down! ;)
  25. @MetroiD that Ikea Billy bookcase looks a very good idea! Dust is my perennial bugbear as well, so that would work well.
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