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DrJB

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by DrJB

  1. Your best bet is to find another lego fan on this board who lives nearby, and willing to lend you his remote ...
  2. There is always a wise® one ... :)
  3. a three-phase motor should run on AC only ... and all three need to have their phases 'locked' by 120 degrees relative to one another ... Wait ... are you serious? Not quite ... there is an easier way though. The Lego train and control transformers do output low voltage AC (not DC). This of course, assuming you have a mechanism (circuit) to re-create the 3 phases ... Did you say Y or Delta?
  4. That's exactly what I use ... got 3 of them and enough to power several GBC modules. Not sure anyone would go through the trouble of designing something 'iffy' when the train transformer can be had for around $25.00
  5. It is definitely worth it. I got one recently off bricklink (no box) for $240 shipped (from the Netherlands) ... prices in the US/eBay are ludicrous
  6. dark gray rims would be nice too ... except that they don't come in such color.
  7. hmmm ... isn't 12 divisible by 4 as well? One option would be to put the hockey spring NOT on the shaft gearing with the rack ... but possibly on another shaft, itself gearing with the gear that engages the rack. And then, indexing the two parallel shafts should be easy. Another option would be to do a return-to-center with rubber bands.
  8. Very nicely done. I built akiyuki's version of the pneumatic tower and it was a challenge ... I can only appreciate the thought process and the many iterations it's taken you to get all of this working together. Also, I found the pneumatics to run 'smoother' if I add an air-tank. Keep up the good work.
  9. I recall one of the web sites that posts instructions, often posts scans/pictures of fabric elements and stickers ... if only I can remember such site.
  10. At last ... got it to work!!! .. what a beauty this package is. Thanks for all the help Jesse ... now I need to build some interesting contraption ...
  11. Nothing works like perseverance ... I made some progress, got InterfaceB to work with 2× 3rd party apps. So, the serial/USB connection seems robust. Also found some info online on how to enable control of the Dacta Box (and not the RCX). Will post more once I get everything working. Some might think this is an obsolete product, but in my opinion, it's the single box that provides 8 sensors (inputs) and 8 outputs (motors, lights, ...). This is double what the EV3 can do ...
  12. We've all had builds that tend to fall apart (come loose) after some play time. The best example is a crawler that tumbles downhill and ends up in various pieces. Yet, on several occasions I have done few MOCs (or my own builds) where it was easy to introduce some robustness (more sturdiness) into the build. I intend on making few LXFs to illustrate, but hoping to see some tricks/improvements fellow Lego'ers have come up with.
  13. odd ... that's exactly the set that OP initially referenced ...
  14. Yes, worst you can do is throw a NEW cube as such machine ... It'll squeak and scream and may break itself apart.
  15. Nice, especially the functions you've included in such a small build. It took only one hour ??? I think few stacked power miner wheels 64711 might be more 'representative' of a compactor. The scale will be different though...
  16. Very nice ... though, in the small RC helicopter, I believe the rotors are counter-rotating (for stability and neutral Yaw) ... which is near impossible to do in Lego, as you need one shaft inside the other.
  17. Very nice ... reminds me of the CanAm Spyder ... http://www.eurobrick...showtopic=88922
  18. I had my first original Rubik's in 1981 (before the chinese copycats). Back then, it was a 'feat' if you could do one face, and people (math professors) were talking about all the possible unique combinations, non-holonomic constraints ... etc. 33 years later, it's 'refreshing' to see all the new twists/activity around a generation-old classic. I bet asking for instructions is ... ???
  19. Eol = end of life. That is exactly the point I made earlier. The E is current production, about to be phased out. The F is most likely a newer generation, about to roll out any time soon.
  20. ok, I figured what the issue was. I initially had a serial cable, but Interface B requires a null modem cable. Got it now working, but still, when I try to run, it complains that there is no USB tower for the RCX ... It is somehow defaulting to the RCX, how can I make it talk to Interface B instead?
  21. There are many posts on this topic ... as I too, was interested in the GyroBot ... Try these The GyroBoy program does not come with the retail version ... but not all is lost, check out link below for an alternative: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=89139 Let us know about your experience with the gyroboy.
  22. I am all for sharing and recognition. It is, after all, one of the driving factors that keeps us on improving the next time around. My concern is not about what TLG would think of this .... but more ... the people/company who contracted you to do this. If this is an exclusive design/set and they're paying you to build them I'm not sure they'll be too happy about you sharing details on here. Might be a good idea to read your contract ... in-between the lines too.
  23. Been traveling for few days. Tried the above but did not work. I'm wondering if there is something wrong with my box, the serial cable, or even the COM port. Got a new box from eBay and will try it again when it arrives (in few days). For now, I'll give this a rest. I also tried the simple InterfaceB by Tom @ lgauge and it works i.e., I can send commands to the interface via the com port, to motors and lights.Could not get the various motors/lights (attached to outputs) to respond when I click on various commands ...
  24. Are you sure you can discuss this project in the open ... while it is still in progress? Don't get me wrong ... I live in a country ruled by lawyers.
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