D3K

8455 used no other studded parts than the 1x1 and 2x2 parts used for lights, and that set was released in 2003 (?) technically, the engine block pieces are studded, but the studs are seldom used

Any hints as to which other 3, maybe 4 aircraft you plan to build?:-)

Pretty awesome! The front is what deviates the most from the real thing, but I suppose there is no way around that using Lego bricks Overall, a great looking model, there is absolutely no mistaking what it is supposed to be! :thumbup: Also one of my favourite planes ever, a marvel of cold war engineering!

Bummer... but it is probably just around the corner! New site does look nice indeed

Brilliant! NXT it, and make it autonomous! :thumbup:

From the olden days, I would like to mention the slewing function of the 8868 Air Tech Claw Rig, and the front loader on the 8862 Backhoe Grader. From the later years, I must adree with the 8109! The lowering rear wheels as the bed is driven back, completely blew me away. Was NOT expecting it, even as I was building it! Also, the towing fork is a really clever design in a minimum of space! I also liked the adjustable suspension on the 8297! Not extremely innovative, but something unusual and cool! Also agree with the cable car reverse function you mentioned Chilly!

Do like I did, and build it in another colour! It would probably look good in most colours that are not as rare (not that red is rare, but the 5x11 panels are)

Could this perhaps make it just a little bit stronger? It would distribute a little bit of the stress on to the lower pin ?

Pretty much summarizes up my situation as well... Moving in a couple of days though, bigger apartment might provide some room to keep at least a MOC or two assembled!

Forgot: got 6 unused micro motors and some wiring to go with them for around 50 euro:-) oh, wrong topic...

Got the 8420 Street Bike for around 30 Euros, the 8455 for around 100 Euros and the 8297 and 8109 for 65 Euros each.

It is also worth to not that the 8455 can easily be modified to have an airtank if that is something you want You just remove the fake inline-3 engine, and but the tank in its place!

This post made me go ahead and make a blog actually! d3kworkshop.blogspot.com It is nothing fancy, but a place where I will post progress on current projects, as well as to collect and showcase all my MOCs in one place..

Agreed with Blakbird, you cannot go wrong with either of those! If you live in, say, Germany, from what I understand they both come up reasonably priced on e-bay from time to time If you are getting in to the studless way of building, I would recommend the 8455 over the 8868. Also, for the sheer number of pneumatic parts (10 cylinders, 2 pumps, lots of T-joints, valves and tubing), it really is a gold mine for the pneumatic enthusiast! The 8110 Unimog is also a great set just for the other parts as well! However, if you just want pneumatic pieces, bricklink is defiantely the way to go, especially when it comes to price.

Thank you for the positive feedback! Although it now has full suspension and a bigger fake engine, it is still still the exact same dimensions as earlier (a little bit smaller than Nathanael Kuipers' Pony Car). Already done, when I was taking a picture of the front.. luckily it landed in my lap

Done some rebuilding of the car to implement more functions, and also to improve the looks. Firstly, I made double acting suspension on the rear wheels. Due to lack of space, it's not very advanced, and the drive axles only bend in one place, sort of like the second official supercar from long ago. I also strenghtened the rear a little. Secondly, I rebuilt the internals of the entire front, in order to implement independent double wishbone suspension (unfortunately loosing the beautiful ackerman geometry in the process). With the help of LDD I found a way to relocate the Servo motor while maintaining the same dimensions as before. This had the added benefit of making room for a larger engine, so I made it a V10 (even has a small fan). The fake engine is now driven directly from the same axle that goes back to the rear differential, making even more space available at the front. I am more or less finished with the bodywork, only minor tweaks left (I see I forgot a panel in the next picture) As you can maybe see, I am going for a GT Series Race Car look, Added a rear diffuser, to further underline the GT look.. Also some minor mods to the wheel arches Overall the car is a LOT more rigid now than it was earlier.. can be lifted by the roof now!=) And it doesn't break in the middle! What you would see in your rearview mirror... if you were proportionally scaled... or if the model was placed in the back seat of your car Next up, I have to make some sort of interior, seats and a steering wheel maybe

Alicedear Anyhow, on topic: Would plastic model spray paint work? Like the ones Tamiya produces? I remember they made for a real nice finish on my large scale plastic model airplanes, back when I was in to that... Probably not very scratch resistant, but for a nice finish of display models, it would probably work! Also, the size is convenient for small projects like Lego models

I tried searching, but couldn't find an answer.. I was wondering if there is a (somewhat simple) way of making proper chains in LDD with the old black chain links (typically found in Technic motorcycles and such), and route them effectively around gears? Hope someone has an answer! Thank you!

Looks promising so far! Based on your earlier work, I bet this will be even more impressive!! Next, I assume Maersk or Hapag-Lloyd will contact you to build a in the same scale, to go with your RPA 15 and your SL Gabon

Was put back together in a manner of minutes! Thank you! I haven't built a car like this before, so it's a lot of trial and error. A lot of it is not really very sturdy, and I will rebuild it from the bottom up in the future, and try to implement some more functions, like suspension and stuff... Anyhow, I rebuilt the headlights into something (IMO) a lot more fitting, and reorganized the front a little The black soft axle will be replaced by a red one. Also; I wish I had some more red 3x5 quarter ellipses

Some more progress Was gonna pose it for one last picture, when this happened: I of course hit the accelerate stick, and not the steering stick on the control

That would work only for a set angle, effectively locking the movement of the Grabber, so the it wouldn't pivot freely around the axis on which it is suspended Edit: hope that made some sense..:-) (tried it on a car once):-)

Yeah, that is pretty much an exact copy,.. But does he say anywhere that it is his own design? Nice car by the way:-)

I agree, the wheels/tyres from the racing truck are perfect for a medium sized rc race car! I'm using them myself on my current project, which is exactly that:-)