Jeroen Ottens

Very impressive! especially the fact that all functions are working despite the size and weight. Time for a video?

An end of an era indeed. I always valued your reviews with your glass half-full attitude. I don't like to watch review videos, so your written ones will be missed. On the bright side, a lifesize Mindstorms robot does sound so cool...

Oooh, this is one that I will follow with interest. As the proud owner of a MX-5 (B) I am very curious to see this coming together. Currently I have too much of a backlog to start one myself, but even when I had time I've always been a bit scared to take this car on because of it's subtle curves. That will be hard to replicate. So hats off to you sir for trying. I always use the tiresize for the scaling. So all my 1:8 cars are actually 1:8.4-ish cars.

Nice review. One thing that I have been wondering: how do these new gears mesh with the old ones (if at all)?

Thanks for comments. You are absolutely right about the parts collision. I hadn't noticed it myself , your proposed fix works like a charm. I use a dogbone in the rear part, but not in the front. I'll have a look whether I can fit one there as well.

Thanks for all the comments! Ooh, that one looks juicy! I am usually not a fan of beams over flexaxles, but in this case it is a very nice way to get that overhang done. Unfortunately dark azure is very limited in part selection, so I can't use the same solution. Here is my next attempt: I've tried first to use the long 3x11 curved panels, but they were too long (and stick out as they are 2 studs thick) so I couldn't make them work. I've removed the 3x13 panel from the roof to make it flat, I lowered the roof by one stud and I shortened it a bit: The spoiler has indeed a linkage. It is operated with the black gear behind the engine. I've tried using a flexaxle with #5/6 panels and this is the best solution I've found so far. Again, thanks for all the comments.

This started in the 42141 MOD's and improvements topic, but as pointed out, this is not really a MOD anymore. So I'll start a separate WIP topic instead. I normally don't do MODs of existing sets, but being a Formula 1 fan, having a cat called Norris (yes for that reason) and looking at the crude version of the LEGO version I couldn't help it to give it a try myself at the 2022 McLaren formula 1 car... This is what I've accomplished so far: Ambition is to get a bit more of the aerodynamic and technical features right and a smoother bodywork. 8D+N+R gearbox: Yes, designed a special version of @Anto's compact gearbox where the two wave selectors are behind each other instead of next to each other. This way the cokebottle shape can be as slim as possible. Flappy pedals: Yes (but still to be tested as everything is virtual until now) Flappy pedals rotating with the steering wheel: No. I tried to fit @Charbel's unique design, but the steering column got just to big to fit in that tight space V6 fake engine: Yes. It fits very snuggly between the two big panels. The big airintake tube is right above it. Pushrod suspension in the rear: Yes. I now simply used the suspension setup I designed for the Valkyrie as a placeholder. This will need modifications for sure, but it sort of shows the proof of concept. Venturi tunnels in the floor: Yes, the somewhat strange stacked panel setup is used to create two low channels that run from the front to back. They also have the curved inlet and outlet expansion areas. For me this is really a must for a proper 2022 F1 car. The groundeffect floor is one of the key regulation changes this year, so I feel that should be in. Plus it is very cool physics at play. Smooth bodywork: Yes. Another must have I would say. Today's F1 cars are modelled like molten wax statues, there is no hard edge in sight. Sticking to the regular grid doesn't do the cars justice. I will be taken some artistic liberties though. I'd rather have a smooth looking curvy shape that doesn't match the original exactly, than have a cluttered mm-perfect replica. Plus it is really hard to deduce the real shape from the few pictures we have so far And with that, a smooth halo: yes. I don't know what design constraints LEGO had imposed on them(selves), but just compare this design to the official one... And with just 4 parts... Correct livery: No. I would love to say yes here, but the real car has so many wavy patterns that is just impossible to recreate without stickers. I may go for medium blue as an accent colour instead of the regular blue as I love that combination with orange. Ambitionlist: Pullrod suspension in the front: This may be on of the biggest differences with respect to the other teams (or maybe Aston Martin is the odd one out with their pushrod design). Either way, McLaren have chosen pullrod, so that is the way (oh, wait, that's someone else's line). Removeable front nose and rearwing: This is the standard for years already in F1, so how hard can it be? Functional DRS mechanism: As I don't consider moving a few parts by hand advanced technology.. Still have to think how to operate this, it will for sure not be a small-LA as that is way too slow. And ideally I get some lever in the cockpit, but space is already getting very tight under the bodywork. And the cockpit itself is pretty cramped as it is. Removable headrest-siderest-thingy: The foam thing the drivers have to take out before they can leave the car. Frontwheel winglets that steer with the wheel: Haven't looked at this one yet, but given the bulkiness of LEGO parts this one could be tricky Proper wheel sizes: Don't know. Here I am a bit on the fence. I don't really like the solution LEGO has chosen with tumbler tires with round plates, but using Porsche, Lambo or Sian wheels in the back also doesn't feel right. I always try to avoid using too old parts, so using the Silverchampion wheels in the back is not an attractive option for me (even though I might even still have some lying around). The Defender wheels could maybe work, but I actually like the curved edge of the Tumbler tires better than the straight edge of the Defender tires (especially the ridges along the edge are very non-F1). So maybe the Tumbler tires are the best compromise after all... What do you guys/girls think? [UPDATE] Here is my take on the front suspension. It is a pullrod design, with minimal height between the wishbones. This way I was able to taper the top section much earlier. Still to be build in real life to test for strength and height. The nose can be attached/detached separately with two pins. Comments, critique, feedback welcome as always.

Alas, this our first cat. I do love Chuck Norris memes though and this one I hadn't heard before

Very nice model. Looks very sturdy, yet aerodynamic and is properly fast!

Hmm, you might be right about this not being a MOD anymore . @Milan, @Jim, Feel free to move this to a separate topic if you feel the same way. Hmm, I hadn't thought about the new gearsizes. But I am not sure that it will enable a smaller gearbox though. It is pretty compact as it is with the two waveform selectors. Other clutchgearsizes might help more (although I haven't really thought that through). The disadvantage of that flower stem piece is that all clutch selector rings get engaged at the same time. In this model the current selector is probably optimal as it forces a split gearbox that can be placed behind each other. A gearbox where all four selector rings are grouped around one selector axle with some hypothetical waveform selector that can select one gear at the time is volumewise maybe the most compact (although you'd probably need multiple clutchgearsizes as well), but the form factor would be very unwieldy in cars. The current flat and wide (or in this case flat and long) form factors fit better.

I normally don't do MODs of existing sets, but being a Formula 1 fan, having a cat called Norris (yes for that reason) and looking at the crude version of the LEGO version I couldn't help it to give it a try myself. This is what I've accomplished so far: Ambition is to get a bit more of the aerodynamic and technical features right and a smoother bodywork. 8D+N+R gearbox: Yes, designed a special version of @Anto's compact gearbox where the two wave selectors are behind each other instead of next to each other. This way the cokebottle shape can be as slim as possible. Flappy pedals: Yes (but still to be tested as everything is virtual until now) Flappy pedals rotating with the steering wheel: No. I tried to fit @Charbel's unique design, but the steering column got just to big to fit in that tight space V6 fake engine: Yes. It fits very snuggly between the two big panels. The big airintake tube is right above it. Pushrod suspension in the rear: Yes. I now simply used the suspension setup I designed for the Valkyrie as a placeholder. This will need modifications for sure, but it sort of shows the proof of concept. Venturi tunnels in the floor: Yes, the somewhat strange stacked panel setup is used to create two low channels that run from the front to back. They also have the curved inlet and outlet expansion areas. For me this is really a must for a proper 2022 F1 car. The groundeffect floor is one of the key regulation changes this year, so I feel that should be in. Plus it is very cool physics at play. Smooth bodywork: Yes. Another must have I would say. Today's F1 cars are modelled like molten wax statues, there is no hard edge in sight. Sticking to the regular grid doesn't do the cars justice. I will be taken some artistic liberties though. I'd rather have a smooth looking curvy shape that doesn't match the original exactly, than have a cluttered mm-perfect replica. Plus it is really hard to deduce the real shape from the few pictures we have so far And with that, a smooth halo: yes. I don't know what design constraints LEGO had imposed on them(selves), but just compare this design to the official one... And with just 4 parts... Correct livery: No. I would love to say yes here, but the real car has so many wavy patterns that is just impossible to recreate without stickers. I may go for medium blue as an accent colour instead of the regular blue as I love that combination with orange. Ambitionlist: Pullrod suspension in the front: This may be on of the biggest differences with respect to the other teams (or maybe Aston Martin is the odd one out with their pushrod design). Either way, McLaren have chosen pullrod, so that is the way (oh, wait, that's someone else's line). Removeable front nose and rearwing: This is the standard for years already in F1, so how hard can it be? Functional DRS mechanism: As I don't consider moving a few parts by hand advanced technology.. Still have to think how to operate this, it will for sure not be a small-LA as that is way too slow. And ideally I get some lever in the cockpit, but space is already getting very tight under the bodywork. And the cockpit itself is pretty cramped as it is. Removable headrest-siderest-thingy: The foam thing the drivers have to take out before they can leave the car. Frontwheel winglets that steer with the wheel: Haven't looked at this one yet, but given the bulkiness of LEGO parts this one could be tricky Proper wheel sizes: Don't know. Here I am a bit on the fence. I don't really like the solution LEGO has chosen with tumbler tires with round plates, but using Porsche, Lambo or Sian wheels in the back also doesn't feel right. I always try to avoid using too old parts, so using the Silverchampion wheels in the back is not an attractive option for me (even though I might even still have some lying around). The Defender wheels could maybe work, but I actually like the curved edge of the Tumbler tires better than the straight edge of the Defender tires (especially the ridges along the edge are very non-F1). So maybe the Tumbler tires are the best compromise after all... What do you guys/girls think?

Nice clean build

Is there a 3xsomething black frame behind the frontwheels?

Time is relative . This is a job for me, so I can spend a significantly many hours per week on this. I'm sure that others can do the same if they could spend as much time as me. That overhang behind the roof is causing me all kinds of headaches... I've tried everything in combination with that curved panel and below is the best I could come up with, but maybe it is better to follow your suggestion and ditch the curved panel completely... So, time for another update: Still a lot of detailing and tuning to be done, but the general shape can be judged now. I have raised the roof one stud as I felt that the sidewindow became too squashed, but let me know what you think. I am quite happy with the doors. The angles in the door continue almost straight to the surrounding bodywork, the gaps are minimal, but the door can still open. When closed they sit really solid. The only thing that needs improvement is that it currently snags to some parts when closing and the opening angle isn't as high as I would like. So some more tuning to be done. Also the A-pillars are just mock-ups, it is (us usual) a bit busy at the bottom-attachment point of the A-pillar, but this time the topside will also be a bit of a puzzel to attach. It currently just hangs from the flexaxle providing no support whatsoever. The two big vents in the hood turned out nice I think: It even has some room for the fluid containers below the hood: The rear is starting to look clean as well (but the lights will be a challenge, I haven't figured out which part to use there yet). The tires are (again as usual) too wide for this scale... As mentioned, the overhang between the roof and the side is a major headache. This is the best I could come up with so far: Comments, suggestions and critique is welcome, Jeroen

Very nice model, packed with functions, just how I like them.

Thanks for the encouragement everybody. The nose is a bit high, but I really like the big 5x7 panels at the sides, so I am tempted to keep it this way. It is a pretty clean look now, whereas dropping the nose one stud will probably result in a more cluttered paneling below. It is indeed not possible to build this with one Chiron. At the moment I use six fender panels, so even in a two-tone colourscheme you'd miss two fenderpanels. Who says there are no insides? It already has the full gearbox, flappy panels, suspension and steering inside . The wheels are deep inside the arches, but that enables some travel inside the fender, so it allows for a lower placed fender. I'll see if I can do something with a flexaxle for the rear one. It is just a pain to work with the limited amount of parts available in dark azure though.

Wow, I'm just gobsmacked. I have been following this build as well. Incredible detailing on top of a great functionpack. For me the outstanding feature is the harmonica, I never thought this could be replicated in LEGO. Fantastic model.

Hi, The Valkyrie is finished, final photos will follow, but first I'd like to start my next WIP topic. This time it is the Ford GT (the modern version): This model will feature an 8D-N-R gearbox (inspired again by @Anto's compact gearbox). It is operated with flappy pedals. Independent suspension on all wheels, a fake V6 engine, a retractable spoiler and scissor doors are the other functions. I spent a lot of time on getting the shape of the door right and I am pretty pleased with how it looks now: I am still working on fixating the hinge, it is rotated around two axes, so it is bit tricky to get all the angles right and maintain in system connections. Especially at the drivers side there is not a lot of space to work with, but that is a worry for later. I'll first try to figure something out at the passenger side and then see how well it can transfer to the other side. And of course a Ford is not a Ford if it doesn't have a racing stripe: The bodywork at the moment still hangs from spit and hope together, so also there a lot of work is still needed to get it more robust and stiff. The bonnet for instance is not even attached and just sort of lies on top. Comments, critique and questions are appreciated as always.

A very impressive first time 1:8 scale car. It may be a bit unrefined in certain areas as mentioned by others (the bonnet, the rear diffusor, the EV3 elements sticking out) and maybe the area below the headlights would benefit from a more smooth transition between the side and the front, but again, for such an ambitious project it is really not a bad first try I think. Keep up the good work, live and learn.

AT-AT quarter gear racks do indeed fit exactly around the 60T turntable. Meshing can be easily avoided though by moving the the turntable one stud up or down (you'll need two sets of quartercircles anyway)

Thanks for all the comments and the advice The front mudguard panels were quite a challenge. There is so little body to work with around the frontwheels that I wanted to use these panels as they offer at least some rigidity. In real life they are not too bulky, maybe the photos are a bit distorted (I just learned I should use the longest focal length when photographing). The frunk is what it is I am afraid. There is so little room to work with as I wanted to keep as much space as possible below the bodywork so that it is possible to look from the front along the wheels to the back. As a consequence I had to use some connectors to create a 2D surface with all the angles. I have thought about softaxles for the front, but I wasn't sure how to make the transition to the paneling behind it. I also felt they were actually not given such a sharp edge as the real car has. I actually didn't think of that dino part. I'll give it a try. Unfortunately these springs are thicker as well. Space is at a premium in this model, especially in the areas of the suspension. I have already redesigned the front suspension by moving the attachment point of the springs 1 stud closer to the pivot point. It is now nicely stiff and bouncy. In the rear I found that missed to connect two wishbones, repairing that has improved that suspension also significantly. They are not fixed in place, but I did use these in the fourth hole.

Thanks for all the comments. Much appreciated. is fast becoming my favorite part. I had a stash of them, but they are all gone already. I should have thought of it earlier . The area in front of the doors was hard. As usual, there is a lot going on in that area, so not much space to build with. Unfortunately I do not have a digital model of this one, so no instructions I am afraid. The car is already shipped and I didn't make a belly shot. It wasn't too interesting though, mostly panels forming the floor. That suspension is indeed quite a nice solution to get a limited travel on the wheels without blocking the springs halfway. Here is a sideview: Thanks for the advice. I am really not that good with photos. I have a 18-55 lens, but I usually have the camera pretty close to the model, because I do not have a lot of space when making photos in my workroom.

This may be too big, but worked quite nice:

Thanks. Yeah I spent a lot of time on the front to try to make it less cluttered, but I think this is somewhat the limit of the system or my creativity showing here. Thanks. I know that my customer will put 3D-printed wheels on this one, I'll see if I can get a photo of it. Thanks for the elaborate reply. The frunk can open, but it only gives access to the mounting points of the front chassis. I'll give the clickconnectors for the A-pillar a try to see how those look. The chassis is surprisingly stiff. Again, replicating the monocoque of the real thing helped a lot. I used to get the stiffness in my chassis from the central column, but I more and more use the monocoque as the load-bearing part. It is a bit more tricky to find an assembly sequence to get proper form-locking in the corners of the box, but it delivers a lot of stiffness in return. All the paneling at the side is more fragile than usual though. You really have to hold the car by it's central body. Piece count is around 2400 parts... This is partly due to the source material. There is just very little space on the inside of the body, so there is not much room to put parts in .

I was really struggling finding a good solution for this area, so these parts came just in time for me Lack of parts, black ones are on order Thanks