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thomol

Eurobricks Vassals
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Everything posted by thomol

  1. thomol
    I just pre-ordered one at webhallen.com (Swedish webshop) for SEK 1,779, which is about €182/ $204. Preliminary date is August 1st.
  2. thomol
    When I use one track to turn my 8043 it turns with the center of rotation in the middle of the stopped track, and it turns equally good on a hardwood floor as on a smooth carpet. I haven't tested on a thick carpet (and I'm not keen on using my Lego outside), so I don't know how it works when the surface friction is higher. I expect a modified crane to work the same way, it could be heavier than 8043 though, which probably would make turning harder. The obvious downside with my solution is that the crane will only turn in one direction, left or right, and it can't go in reverse. This can be solved by using ratchets on both tracks and controlling them manually. What I like about it is that there is no modification needed to the superstructure; you don't have to alter the gearbox or anything like that.
  3. thomol
    If you accept manual functions the easiest steering solution is to not modify it at all and just (manually) push it around until it points in the preferred direction...
  4. thomol
    If I get one I will probably try to modify it so that instead of going forwards/backwards it will go forwards/turn in place. I think it can be done quite simple by driving the tracks by a differential and making one of the tracks move in only one direction by using a ratchet.
  5. thomol
    +1
  6. thomol
    Don't you know that Blakbird can travel in time? Regarding to Star Fleet, only Kirk has more time travel violations.
  7. thomol
    No need for mechanics. Just put a high school dropout in charge of the lining up, and you will have a perfect replica of the real thing...
  8. thomol
    You don't need an extra valve to let gravity do it's work. Just switch the inlet and outlet on the valve. Cylinders should go to the center and pump left or right. If you want a slow descent just put a short piece of tube on the unused valve outlet, plug the end with an antenna and punch a hole in the tube with a needle. This will make the air flow out of the cylinders nice and easy. No boom crashing to the ground.
  9. thomol
    +1
  10. thomol
    You can always make it bigger scale and use Sheepo's VW type 1 chassis :-). I believe The Thing and the Beetle shared chassis in real life.
  11. thomol
    Hmm, strange... I've checked and you're right. I have a clear picture of a twin controller, like the 8043, with both outer control sticks in a different color. Wonder where I got that from. This also means that I got the v1 vs. v2 issue mixed up as well. Guess I'm getting so old that I can't rely on my memory anymore. Well at least I learned something from this topic; check and double check before posting.
  12. thomol
    The 8275 came with two pairs of remote and reciever, set to different channels, each controlling one track and one function (ripper; blade), meaning you could control both drive and the other two functions at once. Controlling two xl motors with one remote and one receiver like you propose was made possible first with the v2 reciever, if I'm not mistaken.
  13. thomol
    Same for me and I'm in Sweden. Older clips of the same 'mog work though...
  14. thomol
    http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=106444#entry2155182 Enough said.
  15. thomol
    As shown in my signature my dark age began after 8851 and ended with a discounted 8466, which I got for 800 SEK (appr. 80 €) at the local TRU. It turned out to be a good deal!
  16. thomol
    Lego or not, it's still a mod. Originally the steering wheel was placed two studs inwards, in line with the column holding the dash board and therefore not being centered in front of the driver's seat. Always struck me as a strange choice of design...
  17. thomol
    Ah, coming from the ironic generation, I forgot to clearly state that the sentence "A Mercedes thing maybe" and the following fake citation was in fact irony, and not meant to be taken seriously. Need to learn to use those smileys... On the more serious side, there were complaints about TLG not including a PF switch in the 8110 since the switch on the battery box can be very difficult to put in neutral. It has happened more than once that instead of turning a motor off you just change its direction, and I think this is true for every model with power functions (except the RC ones of course). The PF switch came in good use in the 8297 and especially in the 8258, which I believe would have been impossible to operate without one. Hopefully this won't be the case of 42043, but I still think that a PF switch would have made operating the truck easier and more enjoyable.
  18. thomol
    Hmm, no PF switch... An obvious first mod, just like on the 8110. A Mercedes thing maybe? "No, no PF switch on this one either. We (the Mercedes company marketing dept.) want these Lego models to be as accurate as possible, and a PF switch, even though being much easier to operate than the battery box itself, would completely ruin the looks and feel of the models, making them sub-standard, not worthy of the MB logo."
  19. thomol
    You're welcome! There's a part list at the end of the pdf which can come to good use, but for instructions I prefer the photo sequence found by the pdf. And don't forget to check his other videos, they're all equally good!
  20. thomol
    First check out this thread: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=57543&view=&hl=&fromsearch=1 There you can find all sorts of mods. Then you implement Nicjasno's front axle which solves all the problems with the steering. You can find it here: It's parts expensive, but a really nice build! About pitfalls; be sure to turn the differentials the right way (one to the left and one to the right) and don't lock the drive train and the steering together by wrong placement of some clutch gear in the drive train. I've read enough posts about those two mistakes already.
  21. thomol
    Yeah, when our hands were small enough to handle both steering wheel and gear stick at the same time without destroying the rest of the car, all while creeping beside it on the living room floor... Thank god for the plus forty years old's Lego construction area at ergonomically correct height and ability to appreciate technical functions in theory even though they don't work in practice :-|
  22. thomol
    Here you go! As you can see I have an equal distance between each gear on the upper shaft, your solution with the 16t and 20t beside next to each other works as well, I tested it this morning, but didn't take any more photos. There may be a risk of the gears slightly engaging simultaneously, if you're not careful when aligning them. That shouldn't be a problem though; you wouldn't change gears when the car is moving when using an unsynchronized gear box like this one anyway...
  23. thomol
    No, haven't tried it, but it should work since all gears are one stud thick and the upper shaft can move two studs. I can make a mockup and try it out as soon as the wife goes to sleep and I can get to my bricks :-) -- Edit: Works perfectly. Can upload pics tomorrow if you want. Use bushes between gears to keep them sliding out of phase. Especially 20t can have lousy grip on the axles.
  24. thomol
    41:10 33:6 2:4 6:3 18:2 38:1
  25. thomol
    Set first gear to 16:16, second to 20:12 and keep third gear (24:8). Then all three gears should run smoothly. The first gear is only meant to be used when motorizing the chassi, as seen in the photo sequence in the instruction booklet. Then you are supposed to open up first gear and instead close third gear. When building this as a ten year old it took some time to realise why TLG didn't use all three gears; mechanics wasn't my strong side back then. On a side note it's quite cool that TLG showed how to motorize the model, both drive and steering some thirty years before power functions.
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