Saberwing40k

You know, I see the picture with the countdown, and it shows two different engines. I really hope that those are just prototypes, and Lego went with a better engine in the final model. Although, I don't any design as being final, given that there are two different engines. I hope this is an early prototype.

Most car and truck gearboxes don't gear up much at all. You have maybe one or two overdrive gears, but for the most part, gearboxes are for reduction only. Even in actual cars, overdrive is for highway driving, to keep the engine rpms low. However, with electric motors, rotation speed is not exactly proportional to power used, so you can have the motor be efficient at high speed.

1. No, two battery boxes are not required, at least some of the time. Sometimes it is needed, but not usually. All Lego power supplies have limits to how much power they can output, and sometimes you have a combination of motors that can exceed that limit, in which case the battery will have its thermal protection kick in. 2.No, that's not how it works. However, sometimes you have 2 motors that draw more current than the battery can supply. However, if that's not the case, the motors will run at full power. 3. This is a hard question to answer generically. However, there exists a book by our own @Sariel called The Unofficial Lego Technic Builder's Guide, which includes a chapter describing this. Some further advice is to keep drivetrains as short as possible, and do gear reduction as close to the end function as possible.

I have some questions: What dictates the number of functions a set has? Why did Lego introduce colored axles yet eliminate stepped bags? That seems self defeating. Did you agree or disagree with Porsche over any design decisions regarding 42056? How important is fan feedback? / Was there hype backlash over 42056?

Well, at least this will settle the 3 vs 5 stud wide boom once and for all. Although, in the preliminary photos, it looks for all the world like the boom has 5x11 panels. Maybe the model originally did, but that was changed for the production version, or it was just an optical illusion. It looks good, but the photo quality is a bit potato. But, at least it's something. I like the fact that it includes outrigger pads.

@JimCan we post the picture? Although, it looks like we're going to reignite the 3 vs 5 wide panel debate. I think it's 3 studs, but the picture is a bit too distorted to tell.

I have just what you need. 42043 Crane MOD by Barman76, on Flickr Barman came up with this linkage idea, so all credit goes to him.

tater by mahjqa, on Flickr Like this? Sorry Mahj, but I'd think this is what you'd use.

That thing is horrible... I love it! you perfectly captured the eyesoreness of certain stanced cars. It is so ugly, but also so cool. It might even look cooler without the stance and negative camber. Maybe that's what I'd do, convert this to a more stock look.

That awkward moment when you go almost a month without updating... Oh well, here we go, an update. Engine iterations. by Saberwing007, on Flickr For this model, I have gone through a number of iterations for the fake engine I hope to put under the hood. the first version is entirely incorrect, being far too large. It looks cool, so I'm keeping it around for another project. Then I built a straight six, using the standard Lego components. At this point, I did a fit check, and the standard engine components result in an engine that is too big. So, I did some scale calculations, and it turns out brick built engines are a lot closer to correct scale. The first iteration of that was too small, so I spaced the cylinders out by half a stud, and that worked quite nicely. The final engine is driven by a separate M motor independent of the drivetrain, and features lots of details, including a fan. Funnily enough, the fan is driven off the back of the belt that ddrives the engine, much like a real fan belt. In this picture, the engine is not final. I'll do a picture of the final version in a later update. Cab update 01 by Saberwing007, on Flickr Aside from the engine, I have made some modifications to the cab, adding the battery box, the chassis control Sbrick, and a bunch of wiring. So much wiring. I also added working headlights, working turn signals with a trafficator, and a working steering wheel, as well as some bits of the interior. The trafficator was a real pain in the rear to cram in the sleeper section, due to all the wires. Spaghetti by Saberwing007, on Flickr I'm not kidding, those are the wires. It is a rather nice cable salad. Cab update 2 by Saberwing007, on Flickr I also added the headlight housings, and some bumper bits. I did not photograph the rat's nest of cables going to the lights themselves. Each side has 2 sets of PF led lights, one for the headlights, and one for the turn signals. Cab update 3 by Saberwing007, on Flickr Also, the engine in the engine bay. It's probably going to come out again, I need to do some cable tidying. Good progress, but I need to finish the rear bumper, the front fenders and cab, and then do a bunch of cable management. At that point, the chassis will be done, and it will be on to the crane and outriggers. Also, I have some questions. Do you guys like these extensive technical writeups, or do you prefer more pictures? Also, what's the best time to post updates like this? Also, does anyone have some photography tips, or are my pictures of okay quality? @Erik Leppen, what do you do for pictures?

No, this is Lego building music:

Yeah, I agree with Sariel. There is a reason torsion bar suspension is implemented in actual tanks. A real Ripsaw tank uses a kind of swingarm suspension. It's an interesting idea, for shock absorbers with rubber bands.

Funnily enough, I knew from just your title what you were trying to build. This is a massive challenge, and I wish you luck. However, I have one suggestion. I'm sure it's a controversial opinion, but I think you should use the old 24x43 wheels instead of these smaller ones. I too have been building a knuckle boom crane truck with 3 stage outriggers, but I did a modeling cheat, because making 3 stage outriggers that look good and are strong would be absurdly difficult, if not impossible. I'm also building at this scale, and it is quite difficult. I also did something completely different, having most of the motors in the crane itself, and having the model be run by gears an linear actuators. You may have to do this, having the servos that control the crane in the crane itself, as you might run out of room quickly. I know I did, and the truck I based my model off of is a long nosed truck with a sleeper cab, which would have a lot more room than a single cab truck like yours. Here's the topic for my project, you may find some useful inspiration: Best of luck, this forum needs more cranes.

I don't either. No matter the vehicle, most Lego tires are too wide, for no actual reason. I'm going to have to disagree with you on this one. There are just some things you can not do with existing parts. For instance, narrow independent suspension. And I'm sure you would like it if Lego introduced new hubs that had the same lack of slack as the mini turntables. Fact of the matter, there is no excuse for the existing rims to have the amount of slack they do. Also, certain specialized parts could use revisions, like the U joints to make them stronger, or wheel hubs again to increase steering angle. Sometimes there just isn't a brick built solution. Or, think of it like tools. Sure, you can do a lot with generic tools, but certain things are awkward or difficult, which justifies a new tool for the job. New parts are just new tools in your toolbelt.

Yeah, that floating worm gear will not work. Even with an axle with stop, it will work itself off, or skip at the slightest provocation.

Actually, funnily enough, a piston from the Chiron's engine is 86 mm in diameter,so in 1:8 scale, that leaves you with a 10.75 millimeter diameter piston, or not much larger than a stud, meaning that a fake engine like the Mack or something @Didumos69 recently posted would fit reasonably perfectly. Or, Lego could do an engine with the standard pistons. The way I'm thinking about it, such an engine would require only 1 new mold part, a conjoined set of 2 cylinders. 8 of these would be used, 4 for each bank, and all other parts would be standard. Basically, Lego has two options, make an accurately scaled engine and have the pistons be invisible (As most of the bulk of the engine is actually the valvetrain and cylinder heads, and these pieces would need to be added in order to have the engine look right, the engine would look too small otherwise.), or make an engine that is too large, but has fully visible pistons. Or, they could learn nothing from the Porsche, and make an engine with standard components, that is too big, and have the pistons be covered. On the one hand, I'm excited about this set. But on the other hand, I remember the hype for the Porsche, and then the disappointment at seeing all of the cop outs and half baked solutions Lego used.

Take the cable heads off, and use new wire. If you're not fond of that, you'll need some PF extension wire. Honestly, you'd probably be better off just sucking it up and buying the wires, because it would be no cheaper to buy PF wires, or you could check Ebay, or just get a few short old wires, and connect them together.

Fair enough point. I'm not sure, the gaps might look bad, or they might look good. I don't think expecting no gaps is that unreasonable. If it is done well, it looks great, like 8880, but if it is done wrong, or inconsistently, it looks bad. I'm reserving judgement until I can see an actual picture of the model. What I am more keen on is the mechanical functions, like the gearbox, adjustable suspension, and spoiler. If Lego does a repeat of 42056, in regards to functions,I'll be flipping tables.

Sorry Tommy, I have tried my best, but I can not make a suspension system that fits the width and height requirement. It is at this point that you have to ask yourself what you want out of the model. If you want it to function correctly, I'd recommend using some narrower suspension that is 5 studs tall. Doing all you want and being only 3 studs tall seems to be more or less impossible. Or, if you really want to properly replicate everything out of that chassis, I'd say you should look into using 24x43 tires. Those would be perfect, and only increase the size a little bit. Just my 2 cents.

I dunno about that. We've had endless arguments about "it's for kids", and other stuff like that, so I won't go into that here. Since this site is by and for adult/older Lego fans, I think reviews should reflect that. I kind of like what Sariel does, where he incorporates a who would like it vs. who wouldn't like it at the end of a set interview. Also, as I have said before, Lego could have made a much better hovercraft that would still appeal to kids. I dunno. Ultimately, you're the one writing the review, and I don't have to agree with your conclousion. I still appreciate the effort you and @Jim spend on these reviews. It is quite helpful for fans who want the best set, whether it is for them or a younger fan as a gift.

I enjoyed your review, but I don't agree with your conclusion. This model looks rather boring and unfinished, and is far inferior to the 42025 B model, in spite of the fact that it is a B model, and has only 2 more parts. I still have trouble comprehending how a set this small and bland looking has over a thousand parts. In my mind, there just isn't enough about this set that's Technic.The Ocean Explorer had the same problem. The functions aren't anything to write home about either, as this set doesn't have many. You get the ramp, but the use of linear actuators is questionable, to say the least. It is slow and tedious cranking the ramps up and down. The crane moving by hand is under designed, and it does not even work well. The truck is a little pile of junk. Something like 42084 would have been better. And, once again, this set seems really small for having more than a thousand pieces. Sariel outlined many of the set's issues in his video, and I am a little bit surprised you gave it a good score, but to each their own. My score: 2/10

Did you build this in real life? Unfortunately, the front axles will not work. The CV joint would prevent any suspension movement. Also, the wheels can not be placed fully on the axles of the CV joints as shown, as this would result it the wheel jamming against the suspension arms. If you can afford the width, I'd use the 8070 hubs for the steering axles.

Nintendo and Lego need to team up and make this official.

I was going to mention that you were doing a review, Sariel. But, it sounds like the set is a mixed bag at best. Are you going to do an actual review? If the quality is lacking, it might be a good thing, if only to warn people about what they are getting into.

Thank you all for your kind words. I feel much better now.