Blakbird

Nathan Thom is the owner of rebrickable and it a member here at Eurobricks. I am quite sure those images start with the same LDraw library that everyone else uses, but they look like POV-Ray renders of the LGEO parts. If so, I assume he renders a library of them in advance and stores them rather than render them on the fly, but I'm just guessing. Edit: Turns out the FAQ on Rebrickable already answers this question: Your parts images look amazing, how did you make them? They are generated by 3D rendering software, based on the models available from LDraw.org. The main tools involved are: LDraw dat files POV-Ray rendering software L3P conversion tool Python scripting PostgreSQL database Additionally, the rotating 3D models of parts make use of the Brigl renderer written by Nicola Lugato.

Therein lies the problem. The legal authorities aren't going to do anything about it even if you can prove piracy because the amount is too small for them to care about. Likewise, no instruction owner can afford to sue someone over 10 dollars. The pirates know this and therefore know nobody is going to come after them.

I don't have the dimensions, but I'd recommend measuring them right out of the LDraw file for this part. I'm not sure how anyone is going to tell you what the electrical contacts are made of though. Most of us don't own mass spectrometers.

LDraw is not a program, it is a language. There are many tools you can use to build models using the LDraw library of parts. The most popular for Windows is MLCAD (that's what I use) and the most popular for Mac is BrickSmith. If you are starting from scratch and build mostly Technic models, you may choose SR3D which has kinematic constraints which the other tools don't. I can't stand LDD. I can't even put two bricks together with it.

Just pry them apart.

WD-40 would go a long way toward creating a mass of ABS based goo. A silicon based spray can reduce friction a lot, but it also makes an awful mess. The only thing I have ever really lubricated is the inside of a turntable, and that is pretty effective.

Sure, build it out of steel and grease it.

Thanks for the review! This is certainly a model that deserves the attention. I totally forgot I had written that README. I guess it was effectively a review but I never posted it here for some reason. Thanks for finding it! One problem I had with this truck originally is the little "tower" of hose connections in front of the panel. It has a bunch of rigid hoses attached with 1x1 plates and it is not very sturdy so it fall apart easily when trying to get all the hoses attached or opening the control panel. You can see it in the picture below just above the drop axle (made of many colors). If I was building this again today, I would change it to use a stack of these: That Brickshelf folder is pretty old. I have some newer renders and photos at Bricksafe. This is a change that I made. Grazi used the old cylinders but I changed it to the newer versions because they were much cheaper at the time. Mostly they drop in with no impact, but when used back to back with the cylinder brackets the overall length is different so I had to change the mounting point on the chassis. If you want to go back to the old cylinders, they won't fit right unless you move the mounting point again. I am glad that people are still using these building instructions. Believe it or not, this was the very first CAD/instruction project I ever undertook. Obviously I don't believe in starting small! Looking back now, I was not very good at it and there are a lot of things I would change to make the instructions better. My goal at the time was just to learn the tools and to be able to build it myself. I figured this would also be good enough for another experienced builder to do the same, and apparently I was right. Note that while you need the tires from 2 sets of 5571, there are a lot of parts unique to 5571 of which you only need 1. I was able to sell the rare parts of the second set and make more than $100 of my money back. I'll add a cutaway render that I made for Sariel's book:

Check the topic about Efferman's parts. I have one of these XL actuators and wrote quite a bit about my experiences with it. You may have to do a lot of sanding.

When I originally did these instructions, I started with the files Grazi had posted on Brickshelf (modules) and then put them all together into an assembly. I made some design changes to use the newer rounded pneumatic cylinders because they were much easier to get at the time and I thought they looked better. The files on Grazi's Brickshelf have an "undecorated" engine and no seats in the interior. I created the first instructions entirely on my own without help from Grazi (this was my first CAD project). When I was done I sent him a copy of the draft and then he sent me some newer photos which showed an updated engine and interior. I went back and added that to the instructions. I seem to remember the interference you are talking about. I think I needed to change a part in the upper front corner of my hood to make the engine fit, but it did fit after I made that change. Sadly, I do not remember exactly what it was.

Although I haven't got past 1997 in Technicopedia yet, I've written plenty of reviews right here on Eurobricks for the newer models. You can find them in the Technic Index at the top of the forum.

I'd say there is more cross pollination than ever (parts from one system being used in the other), but I think the distinction in parts itself is getting sharper rather than more blurred. The part you illustrated, for example, is clearly a Technic part even though it is in a Friends set.

This was possible with the existing round pin joiner, but now the clutch is one stud shorter. Nico71 uses a similar clutch in his braiding machine.

This is a cool idea. The only drawback I see is that you really have to be paying attention to what you are doing when controlling it to get it in the right gear. This seems like a perfect application for a feature I hope will eventually be available from SBrick: programmable channels. If I could draw a 6 position slider (like a shifting gate) and then assign the two servos a position for each gate position, then this transmission would work remotely just like sitting in the car.

In my opinion, they are 2 different systems. Modern System building is nothing like modern Technic building, and they use an almost completely different palette of parts. The genius of the LEGO designers is in making these 2 very different systems work together so seamlessly. It is pretty easy to look at a part and tell which system it belongs to.

I don't think they call it customized because it is easy to customize, I think they call it that to acknowledge that it is not much like a real truck. It is not 4WD, has a V6 instead of V8, and has a dumping bed.

Those are great models but long out of production. You'll pay a premium for them.

Start by buying everything and go from there. Modern Technic is much different than historical Technic. If you want a simple introduction to the current system, any little set will do. If you want to maximize your exposure with only a single set, then one of the big flagship sets is the way to go. I'd recommend the 42009 Crane. It has a little bit of everything, including Power Functions, and will provide you a vast library of parts to start making your own creations. If you are specifically interested in suspension, then the 42029 truck has all of those parts.

By suggesting painting a ball you have already abandoned purism, so why not choose a third party solution? Otherwise the Friends balls are a good solution.

I just bought a spool of tubing and cut it to length after the plates were attached.

Really thorough review, Jim. I am super jealous that you have 2 of these and I have none, with no opportunity to get one any time soon.

His instructions looks really good, but I am surprised to hear from this topic that he may be making instructions without the knowledge/assistance of the original designer. This is especially hard to do. I hope the designers are all pleased about it and not upset about being out of the loop. I had not seen the Aventador model before and quite like it. It may end up on my shelf. The lambo instructions have a scanned page from real LEGO instructions in them which is a copyright no-no. I hope they don't complain about it.

Title changed.

I've used #0000 steel wool to remove oxidation from these in the past. The important thing is to keep the surface smooth so it won't damage the seal when it retracts.

Typical etiquette is to at least discuss your intent to sell the model with the designer. Luckily for you, most of the designers are probably members of this forum.