dustblue

nope, it holds 3/4 of the ring so no space Sorry I didn't try put them together, because I don't want to tear the gearbox down yet. But since I have all the parts by my hand I can have a pretty good estimation, I took more photos and uploaded here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1zjbJZIW18TFNwHwXXQR7grqEwignfjVb?usp=drive_link Hope those can help you.Just pay attention on how deep the groove on old ring is and how shallow the new one is. Still you always have the option to buy the set and confirm yourself.

WOW! Thanks for sharing! These are definately inspiring! Gonna find out how did they do it, I mean without metal axle?? Oh my...

the shift is quick and efficient, never the problem, that's where the new parts shines. If you want to handle torque just use carbon fiber axles, those can handle 3 times the torque than plastic ones. The problem is to handle torque*speed together, as 2GodBDGlory pointed out, which is equal to power. That's great! I used to make battery from A123 cells to power studio strobes, 600 Watts instant power, lots of fun:)

No I don't think they are compatible, the groove on 3 L ring is deeper. use 2 L new ring with wave selector would make them much more easier to detach from each other.(old 3L ring is already easy to detach from the wave selector if the build is not sturdy enough) I don't think so. Problem is the hook itself is too soft too thin, the blue part is not the problem.

Yes I am thinking the same, maybe 4 buggies to drive left and 4 buggies to drive right, thus no need of differentials and d locks. I guess that's why everyone is doing the same( at least madoca1977 do this in his bigger mocs) I also thought about using 3s RC battery but it's too much trouble, just buy more buwizz is my solution now. It's lighter and much more convenient with much more functions. BTW did you try NiZn AA battery? it's better than NiMh and disposable AAs, and a tiny bit better than 2s Li like the ones from mould king & Cada. If you use power up control hub or lego AA battery boxes, worth a try. With many AA battery boxes and only one 2 channel control, you can simutanously control infinate motors at once. I didn't go that way though, because there is too much trouble and it would be too heavy.

Agreed. It's mostly my personal taste, I like roaring big power. To achieve this in lego, I have to think of many different ways and conquer different problems, for me that's the fun part.

I think they are actually worse than the old parts in handling power. They are better at controlling multiple speeds, using only one input to shift many speeds, like make a 8 speed gear box very simple and small. but that's it, nothing more. We can't blame lego for it, no official set use big power, those sets are mostly for display of functions, not for real play. Till today lego only has plastic axles and universal joints, those are jokes in high power situation.

the set is definately fun(mostly the new parts). but does it worth it? no. it even contains no motors. and since new parts CAN NOT handle high power situation, how you can use them in your mocs is very limited.

I get it, sorry for my misunderstanding. Would try flickr later if I would post frequently:)

Thanks google cloud is better for me, let me know if you have troubles seeing those photos.

detailed analysis photo uploaded, the one with many colorful arrows. red arrow is input torque force direction, green is force on output axle, yellow circle is pivot point, purple arrow is the effect of green arrow axle force after the pivot, and it's the melting direction of the beam(the force is max on this direction hence friction max). the lesson learned: you must use symmetrical output in high power situation, or try something to elimanate unwanted force on the axle.

New parts are fun, however those can not handle high power situations, problem on the orange hook being too soft and driving ring tooth being too shalow. Detailed here:

I myself used direct drive a lot, like 1 buggy to drive 1 wheel, or 2 L motors to drive 1 wheel. That way can distribute system load, and get diffrentials/diffrential locks out of the car. However, it also significantly increased the unsprunged mass, also make it hard to use gearboxes, make the vehicle less real and hence less fun.

Hey guys, recently I've been testing lego technic system power up limits, because I plan to make a 8 buggy motor drive trail truck, but I need to know if it is practical first. So yesterday I couple 4 buggy motors together, to drive my 4 sequential gearbox, to power a 5 blade propeller. I use this test setup because the power output and input is coupled very well, the output is powerful enough to suck in all the power from the input(you can see this from the currents the buggy motors draw). Photos: ok this forum can only upload 30kb photos, maybe it's designed from 1999. Use this: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1zjbJZIW18TFNwHwXXQR7grqEwignfjVb?usp=drive_link This 4 speed sequential gear box gear ratio: 1.75; 1.2; 0.833; 0.57 So it's around the buggy motors' rpm, not much deviation from it. This gearbox is very effective, the propeller is setup to make down force, in gear 1 only 75g down force, gear 2 150g, gear 3 230g, and gear 4 would be higher but the orange clutch can not keep the driving ring in position. So these new gearbox parts are not powerful enough to handle this 4 buggy motor input, now this is the first problem, which should be easy to overcome: just don't use these new shifting gear parts. The second problem is much more serious, after just a couple minutes testing, mostly in gear 3, which means the output rpm is 1.2* buggy motor native rpm. In this senerio the beam that holds the output carbon axle melted!!! I know the rpm is not the problem, the actual problem is the torque*rpm which is power output. In this gearbox design I can not make a symmetrical design on the output axle because I only have one set of the new parts from Lego 42159 so only 1 24 gear with driving ring input. However even if I can make a symmetrical design, it only eliminates output axle load problem, for the planet gear axles there would be still significant loads, in half, and still facing the melting beam problem. Someone might thinks using lower rpm like L motors or xL motors, however there are much more hard to conquer pronblems in those setups, which is torque. I tested, in native output, xL motor torque is 2.5 times buggy motor, 3 xL motors coupled tegother would destroy carbon axle! 10-15 buggy motors coupled tegother can also do it. For lego plastic axles it would be much more easier. 3 buggy motors coupled could destroy 8 teeth gear! 5 buggy motors can destroy plastic lego axles. So you see using buggy motors is to avoid the high torque situation, and leave it to the wheels( I use custom designed planet gear reduction on wheels, and wheel locks to prevent wheels comming off which is the no.1 problem of lego technic system). And now, even buggy motors have limits.I have silicone oil and I would lubricate the parts when remembered. but is there anything else you can do to higher the system up limits?

yes same here. don't know why.

Hi guys, I bought 4 buwizz 3. Very powerful, but several downsides: 1.brickcontroller 2 doesn't support center steering of pu motors 2.Neither buwizz app or brickcontroller 2 support angle positioning of pu motors(like you cant use pu motor to shift transmission easily) 3.buwizz app doesn't support ps controller, yet. Buwizz told me they might roll out ps5 controller in a month. Cant wait! That's all. Nice to meet you guys here, and sorry for my terrible English:)