dustblue

agreed，just buy a set of 42160 you get everything you need plus some good parts. I bought 4 sets just for the motors.

Amazing! I still have this set but didn't start to build it. Exterior has always been my weakness and I thought maybe I can learn something in your build. I see this project took years for you to finish, May I ask how many hours in total did you put into the designing process? Just a rough estimation is fine:) Also authorising CADA to make set of it is a good decision! They are much better than mould King regarding respect to original works. This Chinese company has the potential to challenge lego in the future.

I'd like to try answer this one for zero from my own experience & experiment (because I did learnt a lot from zero's past videos). In lego technic world, torque is a much more difficult bitch to deal with(relative to rpm) without a wheel side gearing down, because of the plastic axles. I have tested many times, the highest torque a plastic axle can tolerate, is 3 buggy motor torque(I would use BT instead here after), any higher than 3BT, the alxe would be permanantly destroyd. Since power=Torque*RPM, you have to make sure the torque is within operating limits of your plastic parts. And the easiest way to do that, is using 46490(the planetary wheel hub). And in fact 46490 is very efficient comparing to for example design your own lego planetary reduction(I did that, workable but not as good as 46490, I used it for other reasons). You can also use carbon fiber axle(max 6BT) or metal alloy axles(max 15BT), I use those a lot, but even for metal alloy axle, 15BT is not very high at all(without using 46490), you can easily surpass that if you use say 4 buggy motors and a central gear box. So 46490 is really a must for powerful mocs. And even if you only use metal alxe, there is still some function you must use plastic parts, like a vc joints in live axle design( the axle can move in and out freely of that part), that part can tolerate only 3BT too. For zero's moc this one, I believe he is using 46490 for other reasons too, like to use more fragile 12 bevel gears in the transmission, I personally hate this gear, I only use them in the differentials. And I agree with you, Zero is speeding up the rpm just to use 46490 later, so without heavy lubrication it would be a disaster.

Ah I see...mechanical limits! no wonder why I never made it work...

Isn't that module detectinf shifting position by resistance(click)? Otherwise how does it know it is in the right position? If you are using the new ring there would not be resistance, I am so confused...

Impressive video! How does the shift happen? Buwizz 3 can control PU L motor turning angle now?

what's the total weight?

If you are buying for functions and you don't use PU motors then 2.0 is ok. If you are buying for power then go with 3.0. 2.0 can only push 1 full load buggy motor, 3.0 can push 2. You can also get this in the specs. I use 4 buwizz 3.0 in my 8 buggy motors moc. And in my limited experience with 2.0, it's much more easy to trigger current limits and respond much slower than 3.0, so you better don't mix use those two. Only issue of 3.0 is the price, it's severely overpriced for the little poor battery cell inside.

This is nice! Glad to see some innovative 3D printed parts! I see your direction is for smaller setups, to save space. My issue with lego technic, is on the bigger more powerful side. I've tested many times, it's almost impossible to creat a shifting box for 4 or more buggy motors when I use clutch gears. All clutch gears need to have a handle to operate it, that handle would have pressure on the clutch gear, if it's too big, the beam would be melted, if it's too small, the shifting clutch would come out of the clutch gear when load is big. If I don't use a handle but use the orange wave selector, the problem would be the latter. It would be great to see this problem fixed(at least in principle).

Could you sell an upgrade package, with a better battery cell? More C and bigger mAh, I personally would love to buy it(I hope you would price it reasonably because everyone buying it would already be a buwizz custormer, I suggest you don't make profit on it but use it to sell more buwizz 3) . If you cant fill it in the existing case of buwizz 3, you can also include a higher case shell, so a bigger and more powerful buwizz 3, that would be exciting. @Zerobricks

NO it's definitely NOT a mechanical issue, as I said separately everything works fine, problems only occur when 2 PU L are putting in the same profile. Software problems can be tricky, I believe this is one of those. I give up on this for now, hope in the final version of the app, the problem would be gone. Thanks a lot for your help!

definately not that, I separately tested all of them and all worked well, the problem begins when I put two PU L motors tegother in one setup, then the first one works, second can only turn in one way not the other, and cant return to center.

Thanks for reply. I tested on another moc with similar setups and it did worked, but still not working on previous moc, and neither does it work with new profiles( in which I only used turning without power for moving) this is really weird

Found another problem, when using 2 PU L motors for center steering, the second one would be malfunctioning. At first I though it was a motor problem, than I thought maybe battery problem, but after more tests motor and battery are all fine, it's a software problem, only 1 center steering PU L would funtion normally, others would not.@zerobricks

I also found this: https://p.globalsources.com/IMAGES/PDT/SPEC/679/K1180913679.pdf In this doc it stated a 0.5C discharge rate(normal use), even 5c is really small, in RC 60C even 100C battery is very normal, why would buwizz team use such an inferior battery?? 5C 800mAh 3.7 LiPo battery is like 1 USD each in bulk, this is unbelievable.... Edit: on specs it says minimal current protection is 7A, max 13A, so buwizz doesn't have to set the max for port A&B to be 3.5A, it can be doubled, say 6A would be much better.

Sorry, a slider. Thanks for your tips, it is a way to cope, however since this app is still in beta, wouldn't it be better to improve upon users' suggestions? You can try brick controller 2, it has flaws like easier to over current(and this might not be their problem according to discussions in BC2 thread), steering angle limited when using PU motors, but other than those it functions really well. Simply copy their function to buwizz app would be good enough for me, of course better is still prefered, if you can. And let's don't forget BC2 is free, I know buwizz app is free too but it is priced in buwizz battery(you cant use any other battery with this app), so it really isn't free, we kind of deserve a better function:)

Maybe use IC board to send signal BEFORE the battery protection kicks in? Like drop the voltage if a channel is over current, or shut that channel down temperarily, so the battery won't die? Tried beta app again and it finally worked, however I found another problem: I have 2 PU L motors to control steering and used 2 scroll bar to control each, but it's very hard to use one joystick on ps5 controller to control both scroll bars, sometimes I can, sometimes I cant. When I can, after closing the app and open again, the joystick woud be only controlling one scroll bar. I don't know why and how to set it correctly to control 2 scroll bars, could you help? @Zerobricks also I cant set crab mode and normal steering in the same time, I can only choose one, because it seems the only way to do it is changing polarity on battery screen, which you cant do when operating your moc.

Indeed! Using two of the pin holes. Thanks! Didn't thought about that. So it's all about the shapes not the functions I guess..

does anyone know why the angular motor exists at all? I mean what is angular motor can do but PU L motor can not? I saw lego specifications and the torque is not much bigger for angular motors, but the mechanical power is definately less than PU L motors. So other than the shape(4 more pin holes other than axle hole), what's the angular motor's advantage against regular motors? I also tested a robot hub in 51515 could handl PU L and control+ hub could handle angular motors. So no compatable issue either, than why...

yes of course, everything is up to date, 3.22 & 1.10 Another way to handle over current is really not that hard, you could even shut down that channel temperarily, just do not shut down whole battery. make user more comfortable and you would sell much more.

Hi guys can you change your algorithm of current limits to lower the votage temparily instead of kill the battery? it's really annoying to constantly plugin a mobile battery to revive it. sometime you have to screw it open and unplug the battery cell of buwizz to revive it(when red light flashing in circle without working at all) @Zerobricks sorry for the spelling

yes even when driving hook attached

I just bought a set of 51515, got a question though, does anyone know why the angular motor exists at all? I mean what is angular motor can do but PU L motor can not? I saw lego specifications and the torque is not much bigger for angular motors, but the mechanical power is definately less than PU L motors. So other than the shape(4 more pin holes other than axle hole), what's the angular motor's advantage against regular motors?

nevermind

That's good, however I cant test it now due to problems I encountered. Further more, they should also make it possible that one channel can be controlled by different sliders, because controller joystick controls only the sliders, if one channel can only be controlled by one slider like right now, then there are still some functions that it won't have which BC2 now has. For example I have a 8 buggy motor moc, in buwizz I can only control it to go forward or backward because one channel can only be controlled by one slider, but in BC2 I can let 8 motors do whatever I want, like only front wheel drive, or only left wheel drive.