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Lixander

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  1. Lixander
    I found something on https://www.conrad.de/ and I think they have a subsidiary or something in Romania too, but on both websites there are only pinions for 5mm or 6mm axles. I found a similar pinion and also an axle adapter on some hobby-shops in here, but as always, something is not in stock in the shop in my city but in the one across the country.........20 bucks in plus just the shipping :/ I will see how I proceed.
  2. Lixander
    I already changed the first gear assembly with 8 to 24 toothed gears. I will also check the settings on the ESC when my battery will be fully charged, just to be sure. But I am beginning to take into consideration more and more a metal pinion. I will see if I find any pinion that matches the Lego`s gear with 8 or 12 tooths from a hobby-shop.
  3. Lixander
    Looks good!.........even better than the Studio screenshots (in my opinion). I am curious to see it in action.
  4. Lixander
    Oke, thanks! Yeah, I would had lubricate the gears but going outside without an enclosed gearing and made from plastic, is pretty hard to find something that will work :/ Well, the portal wheel-hubs had no visible problem until now. I will also see what I will do with the gearing. For now I have trouble finding a reliable axle adapter and also the motor seems to fluctuate its RPM even if the throttle is at the same level.
  5. Lixander
    The shaft diameter is 3.175 mm. I will also search for that pinion gear. But do you use that pinion with other plastic gears? And thanks for the recommendations!
  6. Lixander
    It worked! With a gearing consisting of 2x pairs of 12 toothed coupled to 20 toothed gears (in this very order; the final gear ratio is 2,79:1) the model works fine, just the gears skid a little when the motor starts running. But this time, I had problems with the axle adapter because it wasn't aligned properly on the motor shaft and it got shredded. Also, due to this, an axle melt but the gears and the other axles seem to be fine. Despite that, I managed to run the buggy for a maximum of 5 minutes and I got a speed of 11,50 km/h / 7.15 mph in a park. I will test the buggy furthermore in the days that would come.
  7. Lixander
    Until i actually get the parts to finish the RC mod of my own retro buggy, I saw an opportunity to try to use the RC set-up in someone else`s design........no surprise that it is another retro themed buggy. Namely Apachaihapachai`s Sprite retro buggy. Nice design @apachaihapachai ! I will put the photos on the page of the MOC in a few days. Same as at my own buggy, I need some other opinions, maybe even some advices about the gear set-up. What do you think? The gears will last?
  8. Lixander
    I see. Thanks! I will search for other gear set-ups in the next days then.
  9. Lixander
    I tried other gear set-ups and this is the only one that works. It has the ratio 1:1, but due to the half-stud 12 tooth gear, it wouldn`t last too long for sure. If you have any advice or idea on the gear set-up, I will gladly test it. Also, I found out that a worm gear set-up also works (at least in theory), but I am not sure how long it will last.
  10. Lixander
    I will try it. Thanks for the advice! Well, yes.
  11. Lixander
    I disassembled the model sooner than I expected.........here is the aftermath of a 3300 kV brushless RC motor that worked with Lego gears for 2-5 times for around a total of 10 minutes.
  12. Lixander
    Welp, the Retro buggy was slow with 1x buggy motor and the version with 2x motors suffered from slipping gears. So, at least to fail with a big smile on my face, I put to use the 3D printed Lego frame for 540 size RC motors and the 3,17 mm axle to Lego axle adapter with my newly acquired SkyRC Leopard V2 brushless set-up - 60A ESC with 3650 size (12T) 3300 kV motor (yeah, I didn`t know either that SkyRC made also ESC`s and motors). So I modified the rear axle to fit the adapters with some down-gearing and also the front frame for installing the Geekservo. The gears were skidding because the axle adapter was touching a liftarm so, after some attempts to run the model, I modified again the rear axle and the bodywork got taller with 1 stud, got a different windshield position and a lateral hole for the fan of the ESC. The modified body-work allowed me to fit inside the chassis the ESC, the receiver and the battery, but there were close to the motor, so I should better put at least the battery somewhere else so that it isn`t getting hot because of the motor. As I was asking for it, at least 1x gear had huge friction and melted into a liftarm........the other 2x gears have at least the teeth damaged and the liftarms that hold the axle for traction have at least small marks due to the friction since I began testing the motor adapter some days ago. When I would disassemble the model I will put here more detailed images with the gear system and the damage it got. Lastly, here is the ”brutal scene” where the Lego 12 toothed bevel gear simply became one with the 3L modified T-shaped liftarm :/
  13. Lixander
    That is a fairly bad thing to deal with, especially in your context..........I hope you will pass through this without too many problems and get healthy as soon as possible! Also, from what I have seen at my dad, which was diagnosticated with a kind of cancer last autumn, staying positive and always finding something to be happy or joyful about is the key to keep going.
  14. Lixander
    Looks detailed.........good job!
  15. Lixander
    Looks good until now, good job! Also, it resembles a little with the Caterham 7 for me :)
  16. Lixander
    Now that the new sets are available to see on lego.com, I found something interesting: the Volvo FMX truck has a tilting cab and an inline 6 cylinders engine. P.S.: Sorry for the spam. Above is already mentioned this.
  17. Lixander
    I gave a chance to the small retro buggy concept from the beginning of the topic...........and I am excited for this thing, I don't know exactly why. Anyway, the test-building went much more smoother than the last thing - the ”Flat baja-truck MAXX”. Speaking of it, the new buggy is quite the opposite of the Flat baja MAXX.........small, robust and fast. It runs with 1x servo, 1x buggy motor geared for speed from the speed output and 8x hard 6.5L shocks. I know how that sounds (virtually no torque), but after some tests, I managed to get the model to run pretty much perfectly with the original gearing coupled to the speed output of the motor. Not to forget, the model has around 800 g / 1.75lbs / 28.21 oz with the hub. It uses the same front assembly as the Tamiya BBX BB-01 replica and the Flat baja II, more exactly the Flat baja`s II V2 front assembly with 2x pairs of hard 6.5L shocks (the Tamiya replica uses 1x pair of 9.5L hard / extra-hard shocks). Still have to test-run the model properly in a park, but so far it performed great indoor with the small improvements I made, which are simplifying the rear wing, adding more structural integrity, especially at rear and putting the new CV joints where I could and where I couldn't, I replaced the plastic U-joints with some cheap metal U-joints. Also, even if the 1.55 inches tires look a bit too big, there are offering much more grip and height than the 75mm spiked tires or the bigger tires and there are better even than the 94 mm balloon tires (which have about the same size with the 1.55 inches RC tires). Note: the ruler in the 3rd image is 30 cm / around 12 inches. If you didn't observed the hub in any image, here it is.........hided in the rear wing. And, today I came across an old Racer set from 2007 - the 8138 ”Phantom crasher”, and I really liked how it looked. So, I tried to reconstruct it on the same chassis as my retro styled buggy..............this is the result. Most likely, I would also test this body-work too.
  18. Lixander
    Last picture of the ”Flat baja-truck MAXX”, which was a mess basically. The concept was full of errors, heavy, under-powered, with a saggy suspension and a heavy original body-work. That is why I tried putting 6x buggy motors and made a new buggy body-work for it, but the gears kept skidding, so I just scrapped it. I worked almost continuously for over 1 month on the concept, a considerable period of time for me.
  19. Lixander
    Ok, so the only way to put a Geekservo in the case of an external receiver is to connect the servos to the receiver, right?
  20. Lixander
    Also, if anyone asks ”Then where the Geekservo would be connected if the servo port is occupied?”. The Geekservo would be connected in this case to the receiver.
  21. Lixander
    Welp, the Tamiya BBX replica is finally on Rebrickable. Also, can someone help me remake the decals for the Lego panels, please?
  22. Lixander
    I understand. I will think about it. One thing is sure though: the model needs more power (so more work).
  23. Lixander
    I see, thanks! A more complicated idea I have now, based on the rear-axle of your WIP, is to put 8x buggy motors on their speed output and to gear them up to increase the torque. On each axle (front and rear) there will be 2x packs with 2x motors each. The differential will be useless in this case, so if I would actually do this, I will swap it with some gears.
  24. Lixander
    Oke..........what about 3x motors on 1x axle? Does it puts too much stress or something? And if I will swap the differential with some 20 and 12 tooth thick gears, it will change anything? (in terms of the motor stress, parts stress and so on; I know that I can change the order of the gears to get more speed or torque).
  25. Lixander
    Do you encountered any problems or had any damaged parts due to using 6x BuWizz motors? Also, the chassis is 4x4 or 2x4 and what output/s of the motors it uses? I am thinking if it is safe to use 3x buggy motors linked with a single axle. I want to put such a set-up in a model (the one with the 0 distance between the suspension arms) as it is pretty slow. It uses 2x linked buggy motors for the front and another 2x for the rear, both connected to a dark-bluish-grey differential.
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