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CMF-1138

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Everything posted by CMF-1138

  1. CMF-1138
    The black 4.5V train motor and light gray curved rails are the only parts you have shown so far that came in 7720. (EDIT: Sorry, originally thought the curved rails in the photo were blue!) The black one-piece wagons with red wheels appear to be Part x487 (Train Base 6x12 with Wheels), which came in 12 sets (but not 7720). The electrical bits in your last photo appear to be a light sensor and touch sensors, most likely from a ROBOLAB set
  2. CMF-1138
    I don't disagree. I understand and respect the design decisions you have described, and I think we can all acknowledge that LEGO design necessarily involves compromises. I guess I only mean to suggest that the visual impression of the back end feeling too short when it is, in fact, built so close to scale might instead be the result of visual imbalances elsewhere in the model that have resulted from various design decisions. You, of course, get to be the final arbiter of where that balance should be for your model. In any event, as previously mentioned, your latest rendition looks closer to me.
  3. CMF-1138
    Tremendous work modeling a complicated prototype. Stud-counting and precision overlays aside, your latest rendition (lengthened by one stud) looks closer to me. To my eye, however, it is the height of the fairing wheel arch and the visual weight of the front end that is creating the imbalance. I don't know if it is possible to tuck the drivers up one plate higher under the fairing (combined with going back to the original length). They do look small compared the prototype, but I think that may be because they are fully exposed. Alternatively, can the rear arch of the fairing be moved forward by one stud without interfering with the driver or running gear (maybe in combination with going back to the original 2x4 wedge plate)? That would give you another stud of fairing between the rear driver and the cab and visually stretch out the back half. In the front, it feels to me like there is just too much fairing down by the pilot wheels. To my eye, that visual weight makes the back half seem shorter than it is. The front end of the fairing on the prototype looks almost like a raptor's beak to me. The shape isn't quite there in LEGO, at least to my eye. Perhaps the 2x3 wedge plate can be replaced with a 2x4 and the rest of the arch slid forward by one stud? It also looks to me like the front end itself could be one stud too long in front of the pilot wheel, but it is hard to tell. Strictly my opinion, of course.
  4. CMF-1138
    That looks fantastic! Really nicely done!
  5. CMF-1138
    That is looking really sharp! Can the cab windows and roof be lowered by one plate? This would reduce the step-up from the firebox and make the model seem a little longer in proportion, consistent with the prototype (at least to my eye). Just a minor thought for your consideration. I think it does look much more balanced with the longer wheelbase, as long as that runs smoothly for you.
  6. CMF-1138
    I think keeping the current wheel spacing is certainly a reasonable compromise. In that case, if you are able to shorten the cab, you might consider pulling the entire boiler and firebox back by one stud (rather than lengthening the boiler as I originally suggested). To my eye, shortening the overhang in front of the drivers might help deemphasize the shorter wheelbase by balancing the entire locomotive over the drivers. For the cab windows, you could consider using a plane window (60032/2377) for the frame. Because it is a panel, this would leave you with a front-facing window (albeit a glassless one), similar to the Emerald Night's cab. Looking forward to see what you come up with!
  7. CMF-1138
    That's a really nice start, and I like where you are going with this. I agree with your assessment that the proportions seem just a bit off. Here are a few ideas that you might consider. I'll use the rearmost set of driver wheels as my stationary reference point. 1. Can the front two sets of driver wheels be moved forward by one stud (keeping everything else as-is)? Looking at the OO scale model as a prototype, it looks like the spacing is not the same between the front and rear sets. This, of course, introduces at least two more problems: negotiating R40 curves and switches and what to use for coupling rods. The former problem might be addressed by using a F-F-B arrangement for the drivers, rather than F-B-F. 2. Can the front of the cab be shortened by one stud? If you eliminated the brick/SNOT tile forward of the window, you could pull the firebox back by one stud (keeping the firebox at its current length), add one more stud of length to the boiler, and move the sand dome back over the middle set of drivers, as @zephyr1934 suggested. To my eye, this could help with the lengthwise proportions from the side. 3. The running board is tough. You could consider going 7-wide in order to get it one plate lower. Another idea would be to try building it upside down. You could use inverted 1x2 curved slopes for the splashers with a 1x2 cheese slope to get down around the flange. This might allow you to get it one plate lower while keeping it a 6-wide build. Something like this: Just a few ideas to help you brainstorm.
  8. CMF-1138
    This is really fantastic! Thanks for making your code available. My coding and Arduino skills are pretty rudimentary in comparison, but projects like this and @Toastie's Crocodile point-to-point controller are inspiring me to dig in and learn more.
  9. CMF-1138
    That makes sense -- thanks. I like the idea of moving the motor into the boiler in order to clear up the cab.
  10. CMF-1138
    Updating this for the Mac users out there. My workaround solution seemed a bit kludgy, so I poked around some more and found that Studio stores the custom part data in a hidden folder. Here is how you can access that folder and copy the data directly, rather than having to go through PartDesigner. From the Finder, select Go -> Go To Folder (Command+Shift+G) Type in "/Users/YOUR_USERNAME/.local/share/Stud.io/CustomParts" Copy the files from the downloaded "parts" subfolder into the ".../CustomParts/parts" subfolder. Copy the files from the downloaded "collider" subfolder into the ".../CustomParts/collider" subfolder. Copy the files from the downloaded "connectivity" subfolder into the ".../CustomParts/connectivity" subfolder. Hope this is helpful.
  11. CMF-1138
    OK by me, although I should note that I am relatively new to using Studio, so there may well be a better/easier way. I sent you a PM with some suggested edits for the Read Me.
  12. CMF-1138
    Nice! The minifigs are both improved to my eye, although it is your opinion that counts! I think the trolley looks more like the prototype without the trolley poles, as well.
  13. CMF-1138
    Thanks so much for doing this and making the files available! I am running Studio 2.0 on a Mac and had to jump through a couple of hoops with PartDesigner to get everything synced up, but the wheels look great. There may be other ways to do this, but here is what worked for me: Hope this helps, and thanks again to @ScotNick for doing the work on this.
  14. CMF-1138
    And now I see why @Toastie wears sunglasses... R56 is the largest radius I have room for, so my R40 curves are used for an inner loop. I also, umm, "modified" a few to add some flexibility to my switches.
  15. CMF-1138
    Thanks -- I agree that the dark green looks sharp. There would be some disappointed Potterheads in my house if I don't build this in Hogwarts Express livery though! On the color variation, my recollection is that LEGO made a minor change to the dark red color circa-2010. Not as drastic as the shift from old gray to bluish gray or brown to reddish brown, and they kept the same internal color code (although they did change the name to "new dark red"), but I have several dark red parts in my collection that stand out as far more "red" than the others. Some variation is to be expected, of course, and as @Hod Carrier notes, it can be used effectively for weathering or to add depth/texture. My concern is that it will just look "off" on a build of this scale, depending on the number, size, and placement of the parts at issue (hence my earlier concern with the large curved slopes for the boiler). Really, the only way to know is to see the pieces in person. In any event, substitution in this instance is partly for convenience, since I am placing an order with LEGO Bricks & Pieces and they don't carry the 1x1x1 panel.
  16. CMF-1138
    Thanks! For the mudguard, I assume you mean for the rear set of drivers? It would be a tough fit as designed because they are offset by 1/2 stud (unlike the other two sets). I've learned not to say that it can't be done, but it would require some redesign. I actually looked into moving all of the drivers forward by 1/2 stud at some point, but kept getting stuck with gaps in the running board and other similar issues. I may try tackling that puzzle again at some point in the future (along with trying to get rid of the "box" over the rear drivers, eliminating the second framed window on the cab, and extending the firebox by 1/2 stud). But I think I've built myself into a corner for the moment due to the 3-wide to 4-wide transitions and inverted sections of the build. As it turns out, when prepping my parts order, I discovered that the dark red 6231 1x1x1 corner panel was only used in a couple of sets from 2004/2005. It is readily available on BrickLink, but I'm concerned about the color variation with dark red from that far back. So I have made a few design adjustments to use a 1x2 panel piece instead, which is a current part and I believe is also available in green.
  17. CMF-1138
    That's a dark path you're traveling down. Next stop, hacksaws, Dremel tools, and part modification... I can see what you are going for, but I'm not getting the "Mr. Rogers" vibe. For Daniel Tiger, I might consider the red zipper torso from the CMF 16 Imp, as I believe he frequently wears a red sweater. Mr. Rogers is more challenging. I think the Ron Weasley sweater is a little unkempt for his clean-cut look, so the green sweater and collared shirt you have on Daniel Tiger might be a better fit. Not sure if there a torso with a sweater and a necktie (other than this Harry Potter one, but I don't think that is the right look either). I think it's the eyebrows, but I'm not getting a "kindness personified" feel from the face. Unfortunately, I don't have a better suggestion offhand. I think this hairpiece from the grandfather in 80106 might be a better fit (also available in DBG), or even the "classic" basic minifigure hair. The hairpiece you link to seems too long and tousled to me. Just my opinion, of course. Looks like a great project, and it will be fun to see it come to life!
  18. CMF-1138
    I haven't verified parts availability, but I think the key parts can all be had in Dark Green if you wanted a non-Hogwarts Castle GWR livery. Here it is in regular Green, as well, although I don't think LEGO has done the 6231 1x1x1 corner panel in that color.
  19. CMF-1138
    Thanks, @Hod Carrier! I have the latest revision about 90% mocked up and am liking the proportions, so I am going to start figuring out what parts I need to get on order to get it built up.
  20. CMF-1138
    Nice! They have a Brio feel and look to them, but more refined.
  21. CMF-1138
    That looks really sharp with the counterweights! It looked great to start with, but the new counterweights take it to another level. And as others have said, nice job capturing the details and curves/slopes of the prototype.
  22. CMF-1138
    Thanks for this review! Not sure if you have XL drivers without traction bands to compare them to, but are you able to estimate how much traction is improved with the bands? For example, how would the original XL wheels do with the three cars in your video? Also, do you have any information on pricing and availability? (I realize that these questions might be better directed to Big Ben Bricks.)
  23. CMF-1138
    That is a sharp looking build -- it captures the prototype nicely and looks like it would fit right in with the 10277 Crocodile. Are the drivers mounted on separate bogies to handle curves? I'm trying to envision how the 2x PU 88013 motors get packaged in while leaving room for the hub and allowing for gear transmission down to the wheels.
  24. CMF-1138
    Thank you, both. The shape of the cheese slope splashers suggested by @zephyr1934 reminded me of the mudguards from the classic space sets of my youth. They haven't appeared in any sets for a while, but they are reasonably available in both black and red. Of course, I clearly can't leave well enough alone. The more I look at it, the more I feel like the extra plate of elevation takes away from the "long and low" look of the prototype. Having tinkered with it some more, I think lowering the boiler and cab is the better choice, especially if a dark red micro-stripe is applied along the length of the running board to pull it down visually. Again, this will probably come down to seeing how it looks in real bricks. This would likely preclude using curved slopes for the smoke box, so it might make that decision easier. Additional views hidden behind spoiler tag below to streamline the thread: And a comparison to the GWR drawings: Source for the overlay drawing: The Great Western Archive
  25. CMF-1138
    Really nicely done. The level of detail you have captured, both inside and out, is amazing. Is that electrical wire that you are using for the grab bars and ladder or is it all LEGO rigid hose?
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