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bogieman

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Everything posted by bogieman

  1. bogieman
    Dennis, your bogie looks good. What part are you using for the unflanged wheels at the middle axle?
  2. bogieman
    Very nice detailing, love the EMD engine, really great what you can do at 10 wide. In the last two pictures, the wheels appear to be no. 4185 Technic Wedge Belt Wheel (Pulley), is that what you're using? Dave
  3. bogieman
    Beautifully done!
  4. bogieman
    Coaster, Any update on shipping for the switches? I anxiously await my order. Dave
  5. bogieman
    Very impressive, would love to see more details on the train. One has to go thru your Flickr album to truly see and appreciate the detail you incorporated.
  6. bogieman
    You did a great job covering the shape of the loco and I really like the leaf springs on the trucks. The level of detail you did in 10 wide is great. I do note that the engine is closer to a turbocharged EMD engine with roots blower exhaust manifolds. The equipment rack and engine end details are nice. The upper grilles both front and rear on a GP7/9 were for the radiators which were located behind them. Each radiator bank had either 2 - 36" fans or 1 - 48" fan, the 48" inch fans introduced later in the GP9 production. Engine intake air was thru the louvers on the carbody doors, inertial filters weren't introduced until the GP30. Dave
  7. bogieman
    A fabulous model, I love the way it articulates through the curves with the sliding elements. Already purchased the plans! Dave
  8. bogieman
    Looks terrific! Any thoughts about lighting?
  9. bogieman
    Very impressive Tony. Not too much swingout in the tight curves and switches. How many motors are powering this? I couldn't see if the tender had standard train motors. Must be a bunch to handle that long train.
  10. bogieman
    Excellent work as usual. All these different models of steam locomotives you've created have been really educational for me, all my knowledge is on diesels. On this prototype the tender seems small relative to the loco. It appears both "bogies" swivel re the boiler at the middle driver so it should handle curves pretty well, maybe even R40 without excessive swingout.
  11. bogieman
    I don't have any argument with the price per se; I respect the time and effort involved to do this project and the need for enough profit to make it worthwhile doing. From my perspective, the competition would be to buy the Disney train for $330, a circle of R104 track for $140 delivered, and some parts to build a Christmas tree car to go with it for a total of about 1/2 the selling price of this set. And you get a station and Disney characters as a bonus. Granted the locomotive and cars are not near as nice as the BrickTracks one but do kids and non-AFOL's really care?
  12. bogieman
    I think what you are doing is great. I didn't have any model RR equipment when I got started with Lego trains about 2 years ago but had done HO trains as a kid and then for my kids 30 years ago (which they have now) and didn't want to be buying finished engines and rolling stock just to run around a layout. I'm not a rivet-counter and the creativity possible with Lego bricks appealed to me. I'm not too reluctant to modify parts if needed to fit the way I want and I'm using a mix of Lego motors and wireless DCC hardware to control the trains adding sound and light functions. I'm looking forward to the Kadee coupler mod Brick Model Railroader has announced. You can see many fabulous models the people here post which are very inspirational to me. The great part of most any hobby is you can go in the direction that appeals to you and not conform to the "norms" if you don't care to. Dave
  13. bogieman
    You did an outstanding job capturing the look of these, well done. I started working at GM-EMD when these locos were ending their production; as the noise engineer I recognized these for their quiet, isolated cabs which we didn't do at EMD until about 20 years later. The fact than Nohab could package a 20-645 engine on six axles with dual cabs at the total weight matching a North American 4-axle loco is impressive. Regarding the cooling fans, I've thought that Big Ben should tool up to produce a part matching the EMD 48 inch fan since it was widely used and the sticker approach or the blind driver approach doesn't quite do it. Maybe Zephyr could produce a 3D printed fan to add to his offerings (I suggested it to Ben already and he didn't think there was a big enough market), I can provide a 2D drawing if anyone is interested. Dave
  14. bogieman
    Thanks, I missed that.
  15. bogieman
    Does anyone know where the effective pivot point for the bogies relative to the center cabin is on the real locomotive? I'm thinking it must be very near the wall of the center cabin since there is very little clearance between the hood over the motors on the bogie and cutout in the wall. I've searched but didn't find anything that was clear. A picture of just the bogies would help to understand the arrangement. Tractive and braking forces appear to be transmitted directly between the bogies at the center of the loco and don't involve involve the center cabin, similar to other electric locos like the GG1.
  16. bogieman
    Really like the job you did on this one. Any thought of selling the LDD file or plans? Dave
  17. bogieman
    Got my order in at 8:10 am Eastern Daylight TIme, paid with a gift card my son gave me for Father's Day plus a VIP award, total remaining with tax was $2.99. Now it shows Backorder on the order status page. Email confirmation says it will ship by July 17. I'll probably just hang on to it to eventually resell, doesn't fit my layout but I want to show Lego support in hopes of more trains. Dave
  18. bogieman
    You really did do a terrific job capturing the features of this locomotive, particularly the nose and trailing truck. Compared to other streamlined steamers, I find this one not to my liking but a great model nonetheless. Dave
  19. bogieman
    I agree it looks great as well as with the color of the windows suggestion. But of course I have to add some suggestions: - The cab to me looks short by one stud; a 2x2 instead of a 1x2 tile forward of the side windows would be good. - The rear of the tender also looks too short; I'd change the 2x4 tile section to another 6x6 panel. Dave
  20. bogieman
    @Cosmik42 - I agree completely. I've been using your software since you first released it and it does a great job for me. Of course, I would love to see some enhancements but that is way beyond my capabilities. I was a supporter of yours and would be happy to support ongoing work. Dave
  21. bogieman
    Looking today at the inventory of set 60198 on Bricks & Pieces on Lego's US website, they have Hub No. 4 listed for $45.29 and in stock compared to $49.99 on the Powered Up theme listing. Wonder why the difference?
  22. bogieman
    For what it's worth, I emailed TrixBrix a while ago asking if they would be doing R56 or R72 switches and this is the reply I got: "We don't have plans for making switches R56 or R72 right now (maybe next year) , the reason is that there is a complex system R104, and in case of smaller radii not all configurations of crossing and crossovers would be possible to make. best regards Lukasz Kwapinski" Not sure I understand the reasoning, I'm only interested in bigger radius switches without the reverse curve built in to Lego's switches, I don't need them to result in an 8 stud track spacing if that's the thinking. Dave
  23. bogieman
    I actually prefer the countersunk hole that Lego provides in the center tie for use in mounting with flathead #4 screws. Regarding what to offer, for me the gap between standard Lego R40 switches and R104 switches is too great - I'd like to see R56 or R72 switches. Dave
  24. bogieman
    Looks great to me. I particularly like how you did the drop equalizers and coil springs.
  25. bogieman
    I simply soldered wires to the battery holder battery terminal side on the + & - terminals that contact the hub electronics so no mod is done to the hub (except the battery holder) other than drilling a pair of small holes for the wires to pass thru. Here's a shot of the other side of the battery holder: Note the wires coming from the DeWalt battery socket go into the bottom of the hub thru two small holes then the red connects to the fuse and the other side from the fuse is seen coming thru a hole to solder to the positive terminal where the AAA battery contacted, the black goes straight to the spring terminal where it's soldered to the negative battery terminal. Although I removed all the other battery contacts, they just pull out and I've saved them so I could undo this mod in the future. Here's a view from of the installation with the battery removed: Even though the DeWalt battery is 8V Max, really more like 7.2V, it powers two train motors fast enough to derail a heavy 8-wide train in R56 curves, so there is no need for higher voltage in my application. Dave
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