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bogieman

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Everything posted by bogieman

  1. bogieman
    Nice model, that locomotive left the property before I worked at ASF-Granite City for a couple of years. They had a GE centercab when I was there. The second picture in @kozoz's post shows an "F" to define what is the front. Most every locomotive in the US carries a similar designation so it's not ambiguous what end is which when reporting defects, for example.
  2. bogieman
    We think alike. I've never been afraid to cut a part or print a part to get the look I desire. This 3D printed windshield for the EMD E & F units is one of my creations: https://bricktraindepot.com/shop/accessories/resin-printed-f7-windshield/ I'm printing some arch bar truck sideframes as I write this. Dave
  3. bogieman
    Well done, very clever! Those circuit cube motors are amazingly powerful. Dave
  4. bogieman
    Great rendition. I was in London in November and road that line several times. Amazed at how long those have been in service.
  5. bogieman
    Very cool, when I first saw the picture, I thought it was an amusement park bumper car.
  6. bogieman
    Just an update to my post above from 2021. I then reported that I tried the Kadee couplers from Brick Model Railroader and had trouble with them disconnecting on the transitions between flat and grades on my home layout, so I went back to magnets. I had a lot of trouble, though, with the magnets not being strong enough, even the Studly Trains neodymium magnets with supplemental disc magnets such that it limited my train length. About a year ago I finally redid the profile of the grades on my layout to get rid of the worst transitions. I've now sold off all my magnets on ebay and have fully converted to the Kadee's with no issues on the layout or the train length. I've installed magnets below the track in 3D printed track sections that activate the uncoupling capability of the Kadee's at my yard and sidings. Dave
  7. bogieman
    Nice work. The fixed single axle rear truck would have to be built to rotate somehow coupled to the front truck to make it capable of Lego tracks. Always loved the Aerotrain which came out when I was about 6 YO. Started my love of trains and my career at EMD. I've seen both preserved trains, one in Green Bay under roof in great condition, the other in St. Louis, parked outdoors and deteriorating. I hope they someday put it under roof; Google maps shows it's still outside. Dave
  8. bogieman
    That is truly outstanding, what scale is it? I especially like the detail on the trucks as I designed those on the prototype. Dave
  9. bogieman
    The L-motor is geared 1:1 with the drivers so benefits from their larger diameter. In my experience, it's not necessary to worry about closely matching the speeds, the motor characteristics take care of it. It's not much different that IRL putting an SW1500 into a train of SD70's. They all contribute to the total tractive effort according to their abilities. I connect my motors in parallel to the Tsunami2 DDC controller so they all see the same voltage. As long as they aren't experiencing wheelslip, they will find an operating point on the torque-speed curve where they're happy. I'm not sure if it would be any different using a PF infrared receiver for power as that puts out a PWM voltage. This terrific resource shows how all the Lego motors produce more torque as they are slowed down when operating at a constant voltage: https://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm This is similar to the series-wound DC motor characteristic of real locos.
  10. bogieman
    Looks great running! I can't tell from the second video if the trailing set of drivers rotate relative to the boiler. If they do, where did you locate the pivot? Dave
  11. bogieman
    Really looks great! Nicely done. Do you print your own valve gear and rods? Dave
  12. bogieman
    Outstanding, been following your progress on Flickr. Particularly love the timber bridge.
  13. bogieman
    Looks like a great show layout. Will you have it at Brickworld Chicago this year?
  14. bogieman
    Great work! Love all the gears.
  15. bogieman
    Well done! Love all the colors, especially the dark blue and dark green. Dave
  16. bogieman
    Fantastic work! I, too, would love to see a video of it in action.
  17. bogieman
    I've bought injection molded R40 and straight ballast plates from an AliExpress seller and am very pleased with the fit and finish. Here's a link: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804522620044.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.3.35a1f19cmSQDAr&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa The straight ballast plates are about $0.61 each if you buy 100, They fit both Lego and clone track I've bought. I've been printing my own R56, R72, and R88 ballast plates to fit Bricktracks, BlueBrixx, and TrixBrix molded tracks and TrixBrix R72 switches with good success too, after several iterations to get the fit where I like it. Dave
  18. bogieman
    Looks good!
  19. bogieman
    Great video and exploded assembly sequence. Not trying to be critical but the prototype shown at the beginning of your video and all EMD passenger locomotives until 1994 have the steps mounted to the side of the loco with no recess for toe clearance. The steps are only 4" wide and having climbed them many times, I always thought they were unsafe, especially in winter covered with snow and ice. But since they worked okay on the FT demonstrator they were done the same way on every wide carbody model until the F59PHI. So you can just use a 1x2 door rail plate (32028) to represent each step or something similar that protrudes, replacing the 1x2 panel. Dave
  20. bogieman
    Well done! I was surprised to see the red strip go down the middle of the roof, expect that was covered by soot soon.
  21. bogieman
    A nice little locomotive but I think your son did a fantastic job on the video! How many frames in the video? I can't imagine the work it took. Dave
  22. bogieman
    Agree with all, great work!
  23. bogieman
    Well done! Impressive how well it works with the long cars and tight curves. Dave
  24. bogieman
    Agree, great job! How big is the base area in studs? Dave
  25. bogieman
    FWIW, on my home layout I have a number of vertical transitions between flat and grades that are more abrupt than I should have made them. In order for my steam locomotives to stay on the track, I need to leave a vertical gap between pilot bogie and frame that closes when entering an uphill grade and then there needs to be enough flexibility to allow the pilot bogie to "droop" when entering a downward grade. I have found using tungsten putty to add weight to the bogie keeps it on the track - I stuff it into the underside of the bricks making up the pilot bogie. On trailing bogies, I have found it best to use a suspension loaded by rubber bands acting on the tiles atop the trailing bogie to keep it planted on the rails since the trailing bogie has the drawbar to the tender attached to it and the tractive effort from the drivers is passing thru it. Dave
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