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LennyRhys

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by LennyRhys

  1. Haha I have a bag of those from set 8865 (Test Car, 1988) and I NEVER use them. Actually, I don't know why I haven't just binned them - they are pretty useless as Lego elements because they are so difficult to remove. These friction pins were used in a number of Technic sets from the 1980s, but they were dropped because they had too much friction.
  2. I just got 42038 which I assume has the newest style of track links. The parts that they have added are to support the clips on the underside. It's interesting that the sprocket wheels aren't compatible though... that's not great!
  3. Sad to see new parts crack like that, especially since they have been redesigned and are supposed to be "stronger" than the previous 24t gears. I'd say the quality of plastic must be very poor because ABS is extremely strong stuff and there are many of us who have used gears for decades which have never broken. Some of my gears are over 30 years old and still going strong after having been used in many MOCs. Poor show from TLG.
  4. The original flex system was good (I got the 8074 Universal Set as a Christmas gift) but the connections would sometimes come loose easily. Lego later introduced flex system connections with a locking system which meant that the cables could not work themselves free. I got those cables on my Sky Wasp set 8412 and still have them - two ball joints and two pin joints. The best way to get flex cables is to buy sets (on ebay, preferably) that contain these elements. Some of them are expensive but it depends when you go online and what auctions are available. 8074 would be a good starting point however the connections aren't as good as on later sets. I was thinking that Lego should either reintroduce flex system or perhaps even improve upon it and introduce a new verision of it. That would be fantastic.
  5. Thanks folks. Mother and child doing well, and it's a girl this time so now we have one of each!
  6. Since buying two studless models (42042 and 42030) I have fallen in love with the new style of technic... but that's not to say that "old" style technic beams are no longer relevant. Without any exception, structures made of bricks and plates are stronger than anything made with liftarms and beams. But the new style of technic is quicker and easier to prototype with, and IMO is also more fun because there are more ways to put pieces together. On a side note, I find that the "studless vs studded" debate is a bit misleading, because there have been many other changes to the technic inventory which have significantly changed the design of sets - for example, things like combinations of pins and bushes, axles with integrated stops, connectors etc. which make compact structures much easier than before. Studless beams are the tip of the iceberg.
  7. Exactly - you need a specialized remote or accessory to make the servo motor worthwhile, and even then it's not great . Either an M or L motor works perfectly with some gearing and a standard PF remote. The servo motor has other uses, but IMO steering is its weakest application. I have the train remote and still wouldn't dream of using a servo for steering. The only reason I've not sold my servo yet is because I might need it for something else...or at the very least it could be used for a purely "fun" RC vehicle where proportional steering is not required.
  8. I'm using an L motor with clutch gear in the gear train and it works perfectly. You could also use a pulley and elastic band for the same effect. I find the servo useless for steering because it is so limited - you have only one steering angle either side of centre, which gets pretty boring if you have an RC vehicle. I also have the train remote and I find that it doesn't really help... I much prefer using either an L or M motor which allows proportional steering, and it also adds the challenge of getting the wheels straight again! :)
  9. Just a quick update as I realise I've not posted in this thread for a while: My wife just had a baby, so I'm a proud father for the second time (yay!), which means that the buckets are going to take a back seat for a little longer (until now I've been working on an MOC, which I hope to share soon). I'll let you all know when I will be ready to take orders, but be assured I have not forgotten about the buckets and you will get one when they are available. I must admit that it saddens me how much 8043 is worth now... frankly I think it's ridiculous for a set that has "only" 1123 elements, which is small by today's standards. For those of you who got it at a reasonable price, I salute you!
  10. In my opinion, the best way to do steering is not to use the servo motor. I really don't like it... at all!
  11. The Instruction Book auction finishes today in a little over 2 hours from now. It is now at £51 + £4 shipping. If only there was a way to tell the high bidder that he /she is bidding on a book... I highly doubt this is deliberate. Auction here.
  12. I'm not sure I agree with the above - it is possible to get all the parts OP wants without going near the price of 42043. At least in the UK, 42009 is very close to £100 compared to 42043 which is about £160, so I guess it depends where OP lives. 42009 is the best suggestion because you get a lot of yellow parts and the 62.4x20 wheels that you want. Specialised parts like tracks and orange peel grabber can very easily be picked up on ebay or bricklink, and ebay is often cheaper.
  13. It's not unique to Lego - just look for braided nylon string/thread/cord on ebay. Search for the diameter you want (I think that the Lego stuff is about 1mm or perhaps 1.5mm, but there are many diameters available) and you will be able to buy very large quantity for very little money. Some time ago I bought 100m of 1mm braided nylon thread for about €5 and it is the PERFECT size for lego pulleys. :)
  14. As somebody who owns 42042 and is interested in purchasing 42009 I would say that 42009 doesn't really appeal to me as a set, but for parts it looks to be amazing as it has almost double the number of parts that 42042 has. Granted, there are no special parts like track links or all that lovely blue, but there are still some really nice parts for general MOC inventory. At the moment the two models are very similarly priced in the UK, probably because 42009 is old now, and the only reason I went for 42042 is because of the new parts and the tracks which until now I didn't have. It seems to me that 42042 is one of the best designed sets available at the moment. It has an extremely advanced and foolproof gearbox and fantastic playability, as well as great styling and presence on a shelf, which is the perfect combination for kids and AFOLs alike.
  15. Has anybody seen the ebay UK listing of the 42043 instruction book which is currently at £36? I think the high bidder must be mistaken... it's just a book, not a set! LOL!
  16. I think it's a nice idea to use the battery box as a counterweight but I think it'll be too heavy for a Lego model of that size. Having the batteries at the bottom may be problematic as far as cables go, but it will help keep the model stable.
  17. It's been a while but I'm back from holiday now and I plan to start shipping out more buckets this week. I plan to start a thread in the marketplace so please place your order there when the topic has been created. Thanks for your patience!
  18. I doubt that applies to expensive flagship sets. Besides, you'd have to clarify what it means for a set to be "retired". The way I see it, flagship sets are produced in a run of several thousand during the first year of release. Thereafter, unless the demand for them remains very high, their production will not continue. With all the PF elements in 42030, it's an expensive set for TLG to produce and they won't want unsold stock gathering dust in warehouses. The PF elements will serve them much better in newer sets coming 2016.
  19. This. I have two Swiss Army knives and I use them for everything, including Lego. I also use my teeth sometimes when I'm removing pins or separating small plates that are stuck together. We all do it, surely.
  20. This is such a good model for parts. I don't think mine will remain built for very long, and I've only had it for 5 days or so. I'd buy another one, but I think if I was going to put that kind of money on a set again I'd buy 42009.
  21. I don't think the version relates to the shape of the cylinders or number of ports, but rather the family of pneumatic parts - until now the pneumatic cylinders have been the same size (with the exception of the old long cylinder, which didn't really last). These 11L cylinders are brand new and all being released at the same time, hence the V2 designation. And also the shape of the ports has changed, which may be a minor thing, but it's part of the V2 family I think.
  22. Just got what I consider an awesome score on ebay (UK) - eight Unimog wheels and tyres for £20 shipped. Couldn't get through checkout fast enough! These are perfect for my planned MOC and I was actually about to buy some on bricklink, probably for a lot more money.
  23. I'm finished now and I love the model. It's an absolutely fantastic looking model and it functions really well. If I had one criticism, it would be that the superstructure turns very easily by hand and there's no need to make it a PF feature. I can see why some have suggested this as a fully remote controlled model, but IMO for it to be flagship material it would need to be larger and have more functions (eg individually driven tracks, stackable counterweights etc.). Lots of room for modding tho!
  24. Thanks for sharing - it looks good! I'll be back home Tues/Weds this coming week so will be ready to start shipping buckets to the wider world, all being well.
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