Ankoku
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Everything posted by Ankoku
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I don't think he ever find much use for them. e.g. nice idea, just not that practical in reality. -
Well, it sounds like my theorizing is correct. I am currently building, which is why I am asking. The whole reason I got so much of the Ball Factory corrected was because I asked questions. Why was it different to the original? Why did the original work better? As someone else has done, I am curious about running it off 2 XL motors. Will run it off 1 initially. What does and doesn't make it into BrickFest each year from Akiyuki is a bit of a mystery. Some I would expect to see aren't there, otherwise I am left surprised that they are left out. I am guessing if it is a motor destroyer, he may not be that fussed.
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Yeah, but the suggestion is, from the original model, that the 2nd clutch isn't needed and if it is, then something is amiss. e.g. the reverse engineered version require more torque than the original. The reverse engineered version, doesn't even have the ratchet system. So the additional clutch doesn't relate to that.
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Yeah, he seemed to go through a phase of adding that to everything, after the fact. e.g. Cup-to-Cup didn't have one originally, but he added it for v1.2 That said, it is unrelated as to why we are now on Double Slip Clutch in the reverse engineered instructions, but not on any appearances of Akiyuki's module that I can find. Basically, I am wondering if it appeared at a show, in an interview, there are some photos or something, showing double clutch, or whether it was just added by the person who reverse engineered it.
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Do we have any evidence that the Akiyuki Invisible Lift actually uses 2 x Technic, Gear 24 Tooth Clutch (60c01)? In the Japan Brickfest 2015 video, although it is using 2 x Technic, Gear 12 Tooth Double Bevel (32270), it is using them because the Technic, Gear 24 Tooth (2nd Version - 1 Axle Hole) (3648) is offset, not because there are 2 slip clutch gears. There only seems to be 1 in the image. The two questions which this raises are: Is the 2nd slip clutch required? If it is required, why is it not needed in Akiyuki's version?
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The speed doesn't really make any odds, fast or slow. Runs the same.
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I have updated the instructions as @Innocity spotted two mistakes in the instructions which were different to the photos of the module I took. So you will need to download the new instructions: http://www.kanatta.com/GBC/CupToCup/ BSX files etc. remain the same. Was just an issue with the instructions. To help with timings, I have created another demo video, to show how it should be working. This is using what I suggest in the instructions. All gears end their clockwise movement at the vertical position. It may not be identical to the Akiyuki version, but it works fine for me.
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I have corrected the two issues with the red ratchet and the vertical placement of the gear assembly beneath. Nice spot @Innocity Have uploaded the new instructions and updated images. As for the timings. Here is a photo of how mine is set up. All gears are the same from start to end. At the furthest right position, all gears stop at the vertical point. I got the module out again for the above photo and a video demo below. As you can see, it works fine and doesn't drop anything. All I can say, is that this is the arrangement which works for me. I never understood why the original instructions went with Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular 3L with Center Pin Hole (32184) as Akiyuki never used them and it just made it worse. The very first change I made with the original version was to return it back to the Technic, Liftarm 1 x 3 Thin (6632) which he used. So yeah, I never mention the Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular 3L with Center Pin Hole (32184) as it was not in any of his designs for Cup-to-Cup and isn't in my instructions either.
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Okay. Have made my first change. Wasn't very happy with how the ball/box lifter was done. Below is a render of the original and my replacement. In reality, mine is all black, just due to the pieces that I had to hand at the time. I didn't like how the only thing stopping the Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular 3L with 2 Pin Holes was the axles themselves and one of those is used for lifting. The replacement design is a bit heavier, but also a bit more rigid, which helps with smoothness running up and down the guiding axles. It also stops the box from rotating.
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That clicking sounds horrible. Did you use @Berthil's axle tester before building it? That would be my first port of call. Bent axles cause all sorts of weird friction issues.
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So, I have started on the Invisible Lift and the questions are starting. Here you have an axle and gear which just sort of floats there. e,g, there is no bush between gear and L 3x5 Liftarm. Is this to allow for adjustments with timings?
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I am sure he is well aware of it. Will be interesting to see if the instructions do get changed at some point for new purchasers.
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Nothing new or fancy about this, just posting a picture of it, since I haven't noticed anyone else do it. Swapped the Catch & Spin module over to the new gear size. Works fine. You could also replace the Technic, Axle 4 with Center Stop with a Technic, Axle 3 if you wanted to.
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GBC prototype falkirk wheel.
Ankoku replied to PDK151's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Many people use https://bricksafe.com or https://flickr.com for images and then link the image here. -
Video of it in action:
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From his site: "The module does not have high durability. During a 6-h running test, the friction between the roller coaster chassis and rails increased; consequently, the joint of the rails came off. The module is not suitable for use at the GBC exhibition. When the module is exhibited, the adhesion and lubrication are necessary for the rails. The rails at the slope are largely worn down. It is better to make the slope angle gently."
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I have bought some of the new size gears, so I will be converting Catch & Spin to use them. Will be interesting to see how it performs. I have yet to be doing Peanuts, it may well be the next one on the list after the current one: Invisible Lift. Next digital instructions should be the Orbit Overlap one by Riku Katsumata. No ETA on that one at all though. Am surprised so many people have done Heart Chain after Akiyuki's comments about it. e.g. wear and tear.
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Wow, so for you, the IsClientConnected was the issue. Glad it finally worked for you! Happy Building!
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Could well be. I hadn't removed the IsClientConnected from The Sun. Try now.
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haha. I am up to version 1.7 with mine :P It is definitely a version which has plenty more improvement potential. The new hopper works, but could look better. I think there is a lot of flexibility there. The offramp is functional, but that is it. It stalls at about the middle of the 2nd ramp due to the counter rotation momentum of the previous ramp. I kinda like this aspect of it though. No idea if I will keep it. Thanks for letting me know of the issue and keeping with me as I tried to resolve it. I am guessing it just came down to it taking longer than 90s to complete, due to geographic location. (Don't think it is an OS issue) Hopefully, due to you two, there should be a lot less frustration for all.
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@Innocity Are you using a Mac? I have removed the IsClientConnected check. See if that helps. Potentially, there could have been an issue where if the file wasn't downloaded within 90 seconds, it would die. Which considering that the server is based in the US and you are in South Korea, that could be the case. (Internet in South Korea is awesome, but the connection between the two countries isn't always the fastest. I have set it to allow 10mins for download. Maybe that will fix things. Between the US and UK, It downloads at about 800k/s for me. Which meant it always finished in around 40s for me. @OneMoreRobot is in Australia, which could cause a similar issue. Let me know how you get on now. Have made the change to both Cup-to-Cup and The Sun.
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I have them hosted on my own site for a number of reasons. The instructions for The Sun has been downloaded by hundreds of people in 21 countries without issue. Nothing has changed. It sounds like your connection tries to get it over more than one attempt, which won't work.
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Try now. I have changed the chunk size it streams it at. Makes no odds for me downloading it in both Chrome and Firefox (works fine with both), but maybe it will help your downloads.
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Try downloading it again. It should be 32MB in size. If it isn't 32MB, it means it hasn't finished downloading and yes, it would be corrupt. I have tested it and the download isn't corrupted.
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Instructions for the Akiyuki Cup-to-Cup Type 1 v1.2 are up. Instructions, BSX files etc. are here: http://www.kanatta.com/GBC/CupToCup/