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JonathanM

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by JonathanM

  1. Nah, that would mean that the DBG dish piece would rotate as well. I reckon it's a new version of the propeller with axle hole. Then a 5L axle. Do we think the rear props swivel when steering? It seems the 11L black beam at the back has LBG pins connecting to 3L beams that hold the prop assemblys, but I don't see how that beam moves with the steering, as there doesn't seem to be any other pins in that beam?
  2. I was hopeful too, but unfortunately I think they're 1x5. You can see them in 42125_Lifestyle_build_01.jpg on the desk.
  3. Weirdly, there's also what appears to be LBG 2L pins on the front steering assembly. Non-friction pins possibly (but why??). Also some tan looking ones (frictionless 2L pin with axle - why?) on the black 2x4 L-shaped lift-arms behind it and some other LBG ones.
  4. Yes, the red gears in 42009 slide freely on the axle, essential for the implementation.
  5. This is quite a nice selection I think. Are the tires on the Jeep too small to serve as the front wheels on a backhoe?
  6. I think what seals it for me is the teal pin with pin holes above the windshield with the white pins. If you're gonna photoshop, at least be consistent!
  7. Love the heaters and the whiteboard markers. Absolutely genius!
  8. @brickless_kiwi: There was a guy at the brick show on the weekend in Palmy that also had one from the warehouse. Seems they had quite a few locally in store out the back, and I guess sold them to whoever was in the know. Wish I'd gone in!
  9. Agreed - I honestly thought this must have been built from a much larger set. Great work!
  10. Yes, there's two of them. See the sides of the top of the cab at rear. Unsure if any others.
  11. If I'm storing in bags by set, then what I do is use smaller zip lock bags for smaller parts and then A4 sized for the big ones. The smaller bags then go inside the big ones. I usually put all pins (2L, 3L, 2L cross axle, 3L cross axle, 1.5L, 1L, 3L with bush) in the same bag, then all 'tiny' parts in a bag (small plates, tiles, printed tiles, small "special" stuff like bars etc) in another bag, axles in another, gears, actuators etc in another. Then all connectors in a bag, and possibly also all lift arms under say 5L or 3L depending on set size (smaller sets you can combine these two bags). Everything else that's larger goes in the main bag. Something like 42082 you might need 3 A4 bags in total maybe. I have 42009 and 42043 each in 2 A4 sized ziplocs. It's worth getting thicker/better quality ziplocs if you can - particularly for the big bags. This makes it nice and easy to rebuild - just dump out the bags into boxes of appropriate sizes enables fast part finding during build.
  12. Agreed - with C+ you don't need a 'neutral' as you can just not power the XL motor, right? I really like this implementation. 3 motors and we have a 3 speed gearbox, drive, steering and tipping. Only limitation is you can't tip and drive at the same time (not really that big a deal - my guess is the speed at which you can switch from R or 1st and tipping will be nice and quick anyway).
  13. In case you can't get a good grip with fingers, just use something soft (a t-shirt, cloth etc) and a pair of pliers will be fine - you won't need to grip onto it particularly hard to pull it out.
  14. Seems it's mostly the pin with pinholes - different plastic I guess. My guess is much worse in some lights and not so noticeable in others - just like the CLAAS.
  15. The only blue pins in the rear suspension are on the springs which don't really rotate much at all. And I guess there's 1 black pin on the rear stabiliser arm. Everything else is axles or non-friction pins. Nice to see lever-action doors and rear spoiler. The rear suspension pops up nicely by the looks, and the front is same design so presumably they've fixed the obvious problems the Chiron had there. Seems improvements all around?
  16. Looks pretty. They've gone for the same offset diff that they did on the Chiron (1 stud below axle centre). Probably to allow the gearbox to squeeze under the engine. And seems there's a drive shaft through to the front wheels, so AWD?
  17. The steering should definitely not be jerky/resistant. That sounds like a build error. The hole through the roof is in-system so should be lined up. The gears is a known issue - I highly recommend rebuilding with @jb70 Pimp my Landrover - all gears then work very smoothly (with the exception of a switch to reverse while in high gear - switch down first). Haven't had any problems with the front suspension at all - it's not like the Chiron where there were clear design issues - in fact, this I think is one of the better sprung Lego sets - it slightly sinks into it as it should, but still has an OK range of motion.
  18. @Ngoc Nguyen Neat - I'll try that on mine which has the same problem of getting 'stuck' about half way down (super hard to turn, feels like it will break, resolved sometimes by going back and forth a few times). Do you also have an issue with the gears for the back lift slipping due to the 3x5 triangle pieces underneath flexing downwards? I haven't found a good/elegant solution to that yet with the existing pieces. :) @Dyen As everyone else agrees, this is truly awesome. My 2.5 year old son LOVES it - plays with it constantly (rubbish trucks being his favourite thing!) - it really is so nicely done! Jonathan
  19. I built this the other day, and all I can say is WOW. Not only is it a beautifully constructed modular and a great build, but the instructions are really excellent as well. Thoroughly worth the small $$ cost! I particularly liked it when any time the colours are ambiguous and you helped show which one you meant (e.g. dark brown vs reddish brown). Also the tracking of 'you can use the stickered part if you like' was a nice addition. Really blown away - I think it's the best modular alternate that I've built out of about 5-6 now for various sets. Great work!
  20. An alternate Ackermann that is behind the axle instead of in front is below. This is the minimal change I could think of from the original axle, and doesn't have the rubbing issues that the version in Pimp up my Land Rover v1.3. Basically remove the 9L beam, replace the 5L axles with stops with 4L then there's room to put the ball joints one stud further in. The 3x3 T pieces give a flat surface to run against the perpendicular connectors. Also need to replace the 5L half beams with cross axle holes at the end of the suspension arms with a single 5L half beam using 1.5L pins. Jonathan
  21. It uses the wheels and lights off the blue car, as well as some other bits (LBG 2x1 bricks with two pinholes) so my guess is yes, it uses the car as well.
  22. There's another set of black liftarms on the outside of the bent liftarms. Thus the 11 studs which can be clearly seen in the image looking down from above.
  23. Nice to see the return of the 2L beam in lime, and the 5L thin lift arm in red makes it's appearance in technic line. A nice little set!
  24. The red gear is only 0.5 studs wide in the middle though, right? So it still takes 1L of axle (0.5 for red gear, 0.5 for bevel gear), so no problem with alignment to rims etc?
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