Marxpek
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Everything posted by Marxpek
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It will potentially damage your unit faster then stalling motors, when at full speed reversing engines i speculate/expect the current going even higher, since the forward motion is now powering the motors, turning them into generators, sending 2 currents into each other. I'm no electrician, but to me it sounds like a bad, bad thing to do... Like putting your car in reverse on the highway... -
The track i have been using is about 10 minute bike ride away (i need my bike to follow and film the car) but i have found myself a way smoother track today at about 20 minutes of cycling, a bike-lane, it kind of looks like that polished concrete slab you are talking about and it is about 500m long and very clean!! just one big drawback: it is just 2 meters wide, not leaving a lot of room for corrections, but a good run does not need any corrections, so it would be a matter of: keep trying, it looks to be 100% flat, but my gps device will be the judge of that when i try it. I'm hoping to try it out with my new racer later today or tomorrow, but my time (or daylight) is limited sadly.. That surface would be great, but we would get higher speeds then the car can reach on its own when it comes down from the curves, the cyclists using this track use this to their advantage a lot, we need a 100% flat track. Please don't tell me you are braking using 3 buggy motors on the rc unit and then slam it into reverse... you are gonna fry it one day... please don't..
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very nice idea! just don't crash into your sensors :)
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10 meters? sorry to tell.. but no way... like Technicsummse sayd: 100-150m is more realistic, i will not pick a track that is under 200m long. Finding a good road is my biggest problem as well, it's all either very crowded, rough or too short. Let me know when you find that polished concrete slab, the best i can find is a really rough concrete road, i wish i had the concrete technicsummse has in his video, that looks smooth as ice.. But i am always scouting for a better area.
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True fact, but at a certain point the weight of the extra construction and batteryboxes will be more than the extra motors can push (not to mention bending axles under its weight do not turn that well...), but i never said i wouldn't try ;) Also delivering power here is a problem only the rc unit can fully power the motors, but i am using 2 units now and they already cause interference with each other sometimes. Not really, did you notice we are gearing our buggy motors up and not down? we are going well over 2000 rpm on the axle, your best bet would be a train motor without any gearing, but it would still lack torque i think, but if you have one available, try it! but don't buy it for this reason.
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don't rush head over heels into buying things you might spend money on things you will never use... please take a good look at the philo's motor specs page that was linked before, and look at the mechanical power output of the all motors (and compare rpm's also) Only?!? 35 is quite an achievement i think!
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@Aventador2004 @mocbuild101Great to see more people try in the race to be the fastest! @Aventador2004Really curious about your plans and execution with the PF system, i have my reservations about it but who knows? Try! Learn from mine and others mistakes... don't break the amount of Lego i have destroyed ;D I have also done a giant overhaul on my racer, threw looks and "crash-survivability" out the window, just as the claas wheel. Although a still WIP it very much resembles the first racer i built (sadly i don't have pictures...) but found to be "too dangerous for my small Lego collection", it was a bit flimsy (i normally over-engineer to be safe) So i never went on with this project, but since @TechnicSummse went this way, i feel kind of forced to go light and dangerous (i mean flimsy, i will not risk my rc units...yet ;D). But it is the way to go fast of course, although way more fun, there is only so much raw power can do. Let's have fun and break that 40 km/h! And pray we don't send too much parts to Lego-heaven, a.k.a dustbin...
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what are those rubber bands doing in your steering setup? That is no Lego ;) And i do agree on the suspension part, i started out with (hard) suspension, but it gave a lot of problems with the rigidity of the frame and thus the steering, not to mention the weight gain and the fact we MUST do this on a fairly clean track or the run is lost anyway, we should not need suspension, just try another run when we crash ;D
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I have tried this with a camera at 60 fps on a section of 10m, it gave very inconsistent results, so i ditched this way of measuring speed, it will also never show you the top speed. Have you already done a test run with your car? You will notice that every run is different from the next and the exact section you need to film is on a other spot on the track on every attempt. Filming for speed sounds easier then it is, (besides the fact people will distrust it since you can easily edit it faster..) Red is the safest color car to drive, its a visibility thingy, so i do not think red it the right color for your car, since it has nothing to do with safety ;D
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Hihi look at the thing, who cares what color the rims are ;D The difference is these are all well suspended vehicles, so they rarely lose contact with the ground, but i will stop complaining about your measuring setup now, but i do think you should take that part a bit more serious.. "Experiment 1" ;D Keep it up! but don't burn it up.. i would hate to win our little contest like that... We had an entire weekend of bad weather so i could not do any test runs yet sadly...
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Good idea, i'm very interested, but it seems the buggy motor has no problem handling any of this, i think if you gear it up and give the motor more resistance (and a cleaner track ;D) it will show better results, since it will need more current and that is what determines the true power here i think.
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I have no link ready or something, but i found several reports of people trying the same as you and frying their unit in the process, i think one of those reports was from @Sariel, but it was all quite a while back, maybe he can confirm? And of course there are no experiments on it, who would be willing to burn a rc unit up? But it seems you are, so let's consider your car the experiment ;D It probably is no problem until something gets in the gears and stalls 3 motors at once (since they are hard coupled) then you will see a sudden spike in current in the rc unit, risking permanent damage. But i must admit i am impressed by your approach, high risk, high performance car! I will accept this (your word basically since there is poor proof) as the current land speed record holder! But please work out your measuring.. you can NOT hook up the speed computer to the driven wheel, for at least 2 reasons: your wheels seem pretty worn off already, making them smaller, rotating faster, showing higher results on the speed computer., and any slight "jump" in the car will make the wheel spin freely for short moment. Also think about how to prove there is no incline there (drive both ways for example)
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Well i should not have said "racing", That's not what we do here, it is the land speed record, in the real world that is about who can buy the biggest jet engine and strap it to some wheels the best way.
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The rc Unit has NO protection, the protection is in the buggy motors, but by attaching 3 of these motors you will greatly exceed the current the unit can handle and burn it up inside, just a small twig or rock inside the gears will do the trick..
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Dude, you will burn your rc unit like this....don't say i haven't warned you... and one motor is not fully powered... and you are still measuring on a powered wheel.....
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sorry to tell you, but racing always has been about who can get the best parts, combined with the best setup. Racing is an expensive hobby, if you don't spend you don't win. And i WILL add more motors if I have to, it is the challenge I set myself and i will stick to that. Fastest Lego with no modifications, by whatever means.
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Good to hear, it is on then! ;D Let's see who beats this 40 km/h first!, Really curious cause without a 2nd rc unit you will have to carry around at least 3 battery boxes (and make weird electrical connections with lead plates and extension wires) but since you went the ultralight way, i cannot imagine you wanted this (and it will never beat 2 rc units in a similar setup considering the weight)
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You already know i like your efforts but, i have a problem with the way you measure, should be fully gps, but when you choose the Lego computer it should be attached to a non powered wheel. But Let's not get back into that discussion ;) Good job, but know i'll beat you ;) are you doing this with a 2nd rc unit? I sure do not hope you took the non-lego solutions here (minizip, shunted batteryboxes or stuff like that) that would ruin the competition and would need (yet another) new category for your record.
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@mocbuild101 Yeah i do finally we already met on youtube and i sent him here ;) Although he made me go back to the boring way; slick wheels, lightweight all that crap, i actually used his exact steering setup in one of my concepts about a year back, but i found it to be risky (it wants to crash). For sure it gives better results, but i like the raw power, but hey... cannot be picky if you want to be the fastest, so i left the raw power for what it is and went the finesse way. He also made a new category for his record, (fastest 2 motor Lego) something i will not do, i want to be the fastest period,regardless of the partcount. But know that i have a new, not fully tested design but its shows promising results. I will keep you updated.
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wasn't looking for overheating, more looking for the true capacity 2000, mah seems a straight up lie looking at what is on the market.
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Amazed by that battery! totally off topic in the meanwhile but..good test, you can clearly see the other motors slowing down when you stall the buggy motor and them speeding up again once the resistor fully kicks in. how long can you run this rig on the battery? 2 minutes? :D (since you put this up on your main youtube channel, maybe mention you removed the thermal protection on the battery box)
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I did a fast test without any video, within 2 seconds of stalling a xl motor it kicks in and it seems weak driving it (battery isn't new either), it kicks on a buggy motor almost instantly with some load (a wheel and a finger lightly touching it) the protection is obviously on a low current setting, makes sense since it was made for small lights and sirens and the monorail motor, not the most power consuming stuff. i let me know if you want me to try anything else.
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an absolute fact: for my personal speed record attempts it means: build something that is built with only Lego, the Lego way. I will try to do this later today, maybe @LXF can beat me to it ;)
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Compared to the LED's they do, but it is still a tiny light, and the wires indeed are important, the old non glossy type cracks easily now after all these years, NEVER use them with buggy motors, or just never use em at all, they will short out someday. I would love to see another test, curious about the capabilities, but maybe try other tests with multiple XL or L motor, just not to risk the buggy motors, since it did get hot. Either way i am already impressed by the capabilities of these batteries, just not interested in the 8.4volts, do they make the 9.6v version aswell? (rarely seen but they do exist)
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@LegoTT Don't forget the motors are protected for overheating as well, in theory this should not be able to melt any wires or do any damage (until you connect something wrong) the RC unit delivers this (and more) power over the same wire without problem. But by these rules of using a bush to block the old thermal resistors, you could also bypass the thermistor in a new battery box by twisting up the legs and put a Lego rubber band on it (or something similar) and then say: it is 100% Lego. to me it is all cheating, fine to do it for a private moc or something. but not in contests or in my case: speed records.