Mechbuilds

Lego motors are rated for 9 volts, correct? So if i let a 5 year old play with my moc that has say.. 11 volts of power going trough and the motors stall, will the motors fry up? If more volts means more speed then sure, but if there is a possibility of frying anything, i'd rather stay in the safe side. I'd love to have a rechargeable battery box with a micro usb connector for charging. Does anybody have any pictures or something for the lipo mod, what to get and how to install it? I'm not that savy on electrical work. I do have a friend who can help me out but i'd still need a battery that fits inside the battery box. Battery life and rechargeability is important.

How about modifying it for these? ZNTER S19 9V 400mAh USB Rechargeable 9V Lipo Battery

What lipo should i go for that fits inside the battery box?

So you're saying that using two 9 volt batteries is a bad idea and to use a lipo instead? Cause i was ready to do the same mod that OP made. So basically using two 9 volt batteries wont last as long as 6 AA batteries and the 6 AA batteries can give more power too? All i want is just a longer lasting battery life with the standard 9 volt power. But i want that longer lasting battery life in this specific battery box because it fits my moc aesthetically and being rechargeable would be a plus.

If i go trough and make this mod on my battery box, how will it differ from using the 6 AA batteries? Will run time increase? Will power increase? And sorry for the threadnomancy.

V1 IR reciever: 400mA RED / 400mA BLUE. V2 IR reciever: 800mA total. EDIT: So basic math: If you have two V1 IR recievers off of one battery box, you'd have recommended 200mA on red/blue for both. So, having 4 L motors off of a single battery box would work but they would be a little bit more sluggish than a single one. But that's just theorycrafting. Haven't tested it in real life.

Very simple modular bogie for tracked vehicle:

Servo - 150mA M - 150mA L - 225mA XL - 300mA Train - 225mA TLG recommends that you run a max of 800mA off of a single battery box. However if your motors are doing extreme heavy lifting, like stalling an XL motor, it'll probably suck most of the power out of the battery box.

The red side of my IR remote does not return when i press the lever down. I have to manually lift it back to middle Well okay a little bit exaggerated but the return spring is very very soft and sometimes it sticks on instead of stopping when i lift my finger off it. Is there a way to fix it?

Very good detail indeed! The rear axle mechanism is interesting.

Always make black RC mocs..

Update! The cab part is almost finished.. Just need the two lights in the bumper. Instead of having the fake engine, i opted for two large motors powering the rear wheels.. Steering servo comping soon.. Cheers to @Alexis Vilvert (Muuss) for sharing he's arocs mod. This is based on it but modified a little.

Can't get the link to open. Is it THIS?

Black magic..

Update: The rear axle is now connected and it uses two softer springs. It's slightly longer than the original lego arocs. I decided to scrap the idea of using an XL motor cause the L motor seemed to have enough torque to move this beast. It was too fast for my taste so i swapped the gear on the imput shaft so it's more torquey. Steering works fine!

Adding would be to add a new feature to it. Improving would be modifying the existing feature and making it better. On this particular moc (not to generalize LA vs Pneumatics) Using pneumatics on the arm would improve it by having the controls on the side rather than twisting cranks all over the arm. Linear actuators are amazing on larger scale builds since they can handle the torque and weight. But this model is quite small and the arm only has to lift small twigs. Using pneumatics would make the arm slightly thinner and have the benefit of controls on the side. Offcourse you'd have to hide the pump somewhere which is a problem. I do not know how these guys got the "add to it" in their minds when i was just talking about improving the existing part. And on the matter of the rear tyres, they are smaller on the real life trailer. So it's scalewise accurate. But i do agree in an aesthetic point of view.

Oh well.. It's a matter of opinion.. Like i said earlier, it's good as it is. Guess i prefer pneumatics.

??? Only thing that would improve it would be pneumatics on the arm It means: It's good as it is. But, if you would remove the linear actuators and put pneumatics on it instead, it would be an improvement. I don't know what improve means to you. If i would have said: "Only thing that would add it would be pneumatics on the arm" would make no sense.

Yup.. That's why i said, only thing that would improve it would be pneumatics on the arm.

Amazing work! Great job! Only thing that would improve it would be pneumatics on the arm.

Here's a steering solution courtesy of my brother.

My Brother is absolute legend. Figured out this genius way to attach this so it works and doesn't destroy the gears when my 5 and 3 year old daughter is playing with the truck and possibly holding the turning motor on constantly... Pics: Yeah!

Update time: I'm currently stuck trying to figure out a way to mount the steering system so it utilizes the clutch so oversteering wont grind gears and cause problems.. Help is appreciated if anybody has a suggestion? Any ideas?

Had fun with the WIP tank i build after the earlier one.. Here are some pics: But it's time for a new project.. But this time, it's a moc that's based on the lego AROCS.. Here is a teaser: Waiting for parts...

When i see cool builds like these, it makes me wish lego made RC helicopter motors so we could actually fly these things..