Mechbuilds

Good thing the axle is easy to modify. But pretty much gives you the idea how to use two buggy motors combined with those drag slicks and show you how much room you have to work with. Already saw a couple of ways to improve it. Matched the top side with 15 long beams with the bottom side. At the time making the LXF i was trying to figure out how to incorporate a wheelie bar so i used those L beams for connection points. But yeah it's a simple solution. People can use it as a base to start modifying and optimizing it better.

I couldn't find many solutions on how to make use of buggy motors in an axle. So here i present to you: Modular drag axle.LXF You can use the short stubby hub for 5 stud clearance between tires for a smaller moc that needs to have the tires inside the bodywork. (Sleeper cars) Or you can use the portal hub version with 3 different gearing options. Uses the faster spinning gear from the buggy motor. (Drag cars) Very compact and simple.

Amazing work! Couldn't get it any more compact than this!

Really need the RC buggy motor for LDD.. Downloaded the stuff but can't find it.

I've always liked to pretend that the batterybox is kinda like a fuel tank.

Those fancy clicky things are pretty much worth their weight in gold in builds like this.. You should probably order some trough brickowl.com.. Unless you want to get fancy using worm gears or linear actuators.. Are you making a mech model or a functional one? Please make a build thread here if it's going to be technic based! I would be happy to help you with some LDD sketches!

4wd drift front axle 21 studs. (17 studs with smaller tyres.) Has a strong chassis that can withstand front crashes without doing any damage to the axle. Extremely steep steering angles and a tough U joint build that can handle torque. Doesn't flex when pushed because of the top bracing. You can also use smaller tyres without interference issues.. Also 1 stud of ground clearance using smaller tyres. 1.5 stud clearance with these tyres.

If you're like me and you don't want to use shortcuts like ball joint parts. Remember to use friction axle pins and gears. The 3 long dark gray friction axle pin works wonders. I used double gears for the hip joints so the mech wouldn't fall over. The structure inside was very simple but strong.

Definitely Your older models ain't bad either.

Man you're pushing out these mocs so damn fast.

I can see that chassis having the steering pivot point more closer to the outer edge but you will have less steering angle when using the CV joint compared to the U joint. A video of that chassis working would be great! Kinda wanna build that and test it.

You can use the half 20t gear to power the 28t gear. So basically yeah if you have the new gear to use then sure it can be done with gears 100%. Probably will be a better idea since the diff is kinda flimsy.

Looks like lepin has already went trough and made their own version? Has somebody made this moc or did they actually make this themselves?

The point is that when your front axle has a differential, you can't emulate that same gear ratio with gears. Differential uses 1.4:1 gear ratio. If you use gears, you'll get 1:1.. Which means that your rear axle would be spinning faster than your front axle. I'm still waiting for the buggy motors to arrive in the mail.. While i'm waiting, i'm constantly trying to figure out if i could still add a suspension and make it much bigger.. But then again adding stuff will make it harder and harder to drift.. Smaller the chassis, easier it is to drift..

Sorry, no LDD. Was like 3 years ago. I might return and actually give it a better shot some day in the future Nope just random parts ordered in bulk.

I can only barely make the buggy motors fit: 2 is overkill right? Is one enough?

Well done! Is there any difference when using the half 20 tooth gear compared to the 1 stud thick 20 tooth gear to drive the differential?

At first i was like WHAT? Then i realized someone ressurrected this thread from the dead.

Tested with 1.4:1 front 1:1 rear ratio. Definitely more slipping in the rear axle and drifting is easier. L motors are also pushing pretty nice power on ludicrous mode. I feel like it would be easier to control with taped tyres tho. I'm bashing into furniture. Next in line would be building the rear axle but i still don't have the buggy motors till next month.. So i guess i'll just have to wait.

First test with 42111's tyres without tape. (very grippy.) 50/50 weight ratio. using two L motors with 24 tooth gears spinning one 8 tooth gear. (open diff at rear axle) I managed to out power the grip and actually spin a nice donut. Buwizz ludicrous mode. I can hear gears grinding. Possibly diff wanting to quit. Could also be the gear turning the diff. First test was promising. Next i will test having no diff at rear and gearing the front end 1.4:1 and rear end 1:1 and seeing if it will give me better results than 1.4:1 front and 1.4:1 rear. All this possible because it's only the frame currently. I'll probably go for two buggy motors to get at least a little bit of torque but heaps of speed. Still not completely sure if i should go with L motors instead? I want slow controlled drifts instead of just high speeds.

Well i'm probably going to tape the wheels anyway.. But i was going for 40-60 weight distribution. 40 at rear and 60 at front. I'll mount buwizz in the passenger side and the RC buggy motors will be mounted in the middle of the chassis. So the rear only has an empty trunk..

Pretty much max level batmobile right here.

Okay front axle is done. And it's pretty rigid. It's a sad that the "wheel hubs" have a little bit of play. But i doubt it will matter during drifts.

So basically going diff front 1,4:1 and no diff rear with just bewel gears 1:1..

Love the details on the mud guards. Great use of panels!