Mechbuilds

Oh you mean the @filsawgood's suzuki jimny type of deal with the servo and steering? Using that ball cup arm thing connected to the servo for steering. I also was thinking about using the same type of mechanism that lego arocs uses with a linkage to the servo and mount the servo sideways so the link moves front and back to steer left and right.. But i think that way would have interfered with the suspension.. @Lipkocan you whip up something on LDD to show me what you mean? I kinda liked using long track rods on the suspension so it looks more realistic.. But then again using a CV joint for drive only gives one stud of in and out movement..

@Lipko The problem is i don't know how to attach it.. I'm trying to look at similar axles that use the H frame but all of those builds use the ball joint fork part to connect it. I don't want to use the ball join fork part because i want the H frame to be horizontal. Using the ball joint part it will tilt down on an angle. Well like i said, i'm really bad at designing axles.. This is what i could come up with: But i'm not really sure how sturdy this would be.. The moc itself would have lots of weight on it. That's why i geared the portal axles down so much. I'll probably use two XL motors and buwizz to power it. But i can't really fit a servo on this.. So i guess it has to be mounted in the frame over the axle.. But i have no idea how to attach the axle to the servo in a way so when the suspension moves, the steering would stay relatively straight... I think that linkage will probably not work..

Hey guys! I'm working on a military truck: But i'm kinda stuck with the axles because i'm terribad at making them. This is what i've built so far: It's the scale i'm going for. What i need is help with the 3 or 4 link attachment to the frame and steering mechanism. I will be using locked diffs in both front and rear and it will be in constant 4wd. It's meant to be offroad after all. Both servo attached to axle or servo in frame and using a linkage to steer is both okay as long as it works. If somebody can come up with this front axle, i can just copy it and modify so i'll have an axle for the rear as well. Can anyone help me with this?

I hope you continue your project.

Looks better than the original because it's almost fully technic. I'd keep the hood intact and not have the V8 there. Never liked the gaping hole in the hood.

Damn now i need to order 30 pieces of lego chain.. Here is a wip: I need to build a gearbox so i can have drive for the rear axle and spin the motor. Also front axle needs to be done. But it's getting there.. The bodywork is very flimsy in the middle. I need to figure out a support structure to hold the thing together.

I kinda wanna do the gigahorse with the charger. Still working on if i want it to be able to crawl or do i just want it to be fast and ridiculous.

Has anybody made a drift chassis for the charger body yet?

Let's be honest.. This is how you modify the charger: Still a work in progress.. Need to wait till the springs come in the mail. Also ordered a 1 wide wormgear for steering..

59: 10 30: 6 29: 4 24: 3 47: 2 53: 1

Lego motors will spin at different rates. So yes the rear axle could push the front or the front drag the rear. But i think the difference is so miniscule that you probably can't even notice. Depends on gearing and weight though.

How did you fix the steering so it goes straight?

This please! Also modified front steering for bigger steering lock.

Here is a comparison. Like i said, i only had 1 stud of space in my situation. And also since the diameter is shorter on the 2 long wormgear, it can't be used in this application even if the L beam was removed. EDIT: Speaking of worm gear thread gap.. If you have a worm gear that has very large gaps between the teeth, it requires less turns to spin out but if it has a very thin gap, it takes significantly more spins to spin it out. You can easily test this when you compare different nuts and bolts cars have which vary in thread sizes. Even if the bolt is a 10MM bolt, if the thread has a thin gap it will require more turns to loosen vs a thread that has a long gap. So when you turn the screw you'd think the spiral would push a tooth of a gear faster or slower depending in the gap.. Am i completely wrong on this? EDIT: I guess it's always one tooth per rib. But the gap would just increase speed but not change the ratio.

To change the gear ratio of a worm gear, you thin the gaps between the teeth. The increased diameter allows you to spin different gears. In my case, i'm trying to spin a 20 tooth gear and i only have 1 stud clearance for a worm gear. I thought if both 2 long and 1 long wormgears were the same diameter, i could have just cut one of my wormgears to fit the 1 stud gap. But since the diameter is different, i think i should just order and wait a week till the 1 long worm gear arrives.

One thing you could do is keep modifying the steering so you get more and more steering angle. The closer you get to 90 degrees the better.

Damn.. So i guess i'll just have to order it..

Hey guys! Is the new shorter worm gear the same size as the older longer one? Can the 2 long wormgear be cut in the middle so it will be the same as the shorter one? Or is the shorter one larger in diameter?

After a couple of years of doing this, i can say, just pick a color you like and buy the set that has lots of parts in that color. And also the best thing you can do is buy a big expensive set right away. If you buy lots of small sets, it'll take forever till you can actually start building anything. My collection is over 7000 parts and i can barely start making anything i want if i disassemble all previous mocs to do it. Also highly recommend using www.brickowl.com to get specific parts for your moc.

I was expecting the same style dredger that they have on goldrush. You know like a bucket conveyor type of a deal. But yeah it was a fun moc and functional.

Yeah my servo broke just the same. Sent this video clip to lego. I'd also settle for the new servo if it had that older plug on it so i could use it on buwizz.

It will work for a little but then stop due to losing power due to heat made by friction, eventually stopping. Or it will simply just not move.

I agree with @Ivorrr. The roof needs to be redone.

I would use an half beam and have those bushings in the bottom side so the pistons wont fly out.

Ahh i remember this thing.. I used to make robots that had fists that extend to punch in longer ranges.. This was the part i used!