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Toxic43

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Everything posted by Toxic43

  1. Toxic43
    @faph Love it! Another great shunter! The colour scheme goes so well with 60198. If you use PyBricks for the hub software, you can get this thing to go really slow. It's beautiful!
  2. Toxic43
    @Murdoch17 Wow! Very impressive! So glad you managed to get it all together. Did you go with a power system or is it unpowered? If powered, what did you go for? I'd love to see what is going on in there.
  3. Toxic43
    This is awesome! Great, now I have another project to start! Thanks! Just kidding, this is an amazing design. I love the way it has been designed to maximise the same common types of parts, Keeps the costs down whilst also looking the part. Now my Son has seen it I have been tasked with designing one for our layout!
  4. Toxic43
    Awesome! So great to see your model with the real thing. I feel your pain with ordering the parts though! It seems everything has gone up, except my disposable income, which seems to have taken a nosedive these days! I hope you manage to get this train together as it's rather impressive. Even more so knowing the history behind it. Getting to see the model run will likely be the only chance to see it run again.
  5. Toxic43
    It took me a minute to realise how to power the blinds and leave either the front or rear unpowered. I got it though. I may give that a shot. The loco is due a tear down anyway as its been stored for so long now without a good run. I also took it apart recently for the photos above and I can see now how I can improve the design internally. I may even drop to a single motor for economy's sake. This thing eats batteries. Sure it's cool, but I'm the only one that knows the motors are in there. Thanks for the feedback and suggestions!
  6. Toxic43
    Oh, yeah, sorry about that. They have technic half pins in the pin holes which are then connected into the underside of technic plates to hold them. Each motor has two pins, one at the front and one at the back, both on the same side. This is because there is a gap in the plates along one side of the loco near the front into which I have pushed a coil of motor cable. There isn't that much space to work in there with the motors mounted flat like I have them. I may have to rework it with them rotated 90 degrees. Then I'll bet I could actually fully build the side plates as right now they are two separate pieces and have some big gaps. Thanks for asking a question. It has inspired me to work some more on the loco. I'd like to take it to a show one day but I'm lazy so it'll probably just be for my own self gratification! When I get home later I'll see about getting pictures of my ghetto motor mounting solution.
  7. Toxic43
    No problem. Tore it apart on my lunch break and got the following for you: So, first off... it's 4wd not 6wd as I remembered it. The blind drivers are just held in place with 2L axles and pins connecting to the coupling rods for as little friction as possible. Here you can see that centre axle between the two motors which connects to the gears in the chassis below. And below you can see how the motors and the extension are wired in and where the plugs are stored in the smokebox. The motor wires aren't long enough to reach back into the tender, so I added the extension. Now I have too much cable. I have plenty of spare extensions though so I'm, considering cutting one down just for this loco to give me the perfect length. Please excuse all the dust on the pictures. I haven't had this one out in quite some time. It's just sat in the dusty attic. I'll get it cleaned up and running again over the summer. Maybe... To add to the above, powered up will be an issue with dual motors because there isn't currently an extension cable. The motor wires aren't any longer, so unless you can orient the motors on top of each other or side by side with the wires both facing towards the back, you'll have an issue getting them to the battery box.
  8. Toxic43
    Something similar I did was to get two PF L Motors into the boiler, because, you know... overkill. The gearing is 1:1, using 12 tooth bevel gears. One single bevel 12t on each motor, both driving a common vertical shaft again with a 12 tooth above the chassis driving another 12t single which is below the chassis. This in turn drives all 6 wheels, which I know is pointless as the middle drivers are blind, but as I said... overkill was kind of the point with this one. I can probably take it apart a bit at some point for more photos and I'll have a look around to see if I have a stud.io file for it. Maybe not though as I made this one in real bricks mainly.
  9. Toxic43
    Friends themed train needs to be done. I still have ideas about them and just need the time to commit to building it. My youngest is 4 right now and would love a Friends train. She watches the show on Netflix all the time. I've seen Friends inspired trains before, but yours above looks like it could be do-able!
  10. Toxic43
    @Berthil No worries. Happy to help. I thought my motors were broken when I first tried them using PyBricks at speed step one and they just stalled. Starting them up halfway through their range is not ideal, but then again, I don't think Lego had trains in mind when they designed them!
  11. Toxic43
    I had this same problem recently with the PU WeDo Medium motor as well. I found that there is basically no starting torque until you get to speed step 4 or 5. It does start with a bit of a jerk at 5, but maybe you could lower it to 3 if you have two motors working together. I haven't looked at the instructions yet as I'm at work, but are they coupled together to a common input or are they running separately on each set of driving wheels? If they are coupled maybe you'd get away with speed step 3, but if separate and with that much weight, I'd suggest speed step 5 to get enough torque. Frustrating, as you do lose a lot of the fine control and speed steps are reduced, but it is the only way I know you can make these work properly. In the App Controlled Batmobile they're used it, they are bang on/off at 100% torque/power, which is how they work so well there. Anything less than 100% is not optimal I have found. The alternative motor to use would be the PU Medium Linear Motor 88008-1, which as far as I know has a reduced operating RPM, but higher torque. It's about 1 plate taller than the WeDo Medium motor but wouldn't be too hard to integrate I'd imagine. I used it geared 1:1 in my small PF shunter MOC and the torque is incredible. You could probably gear it up some for a balance of starting torque and top end speed as well. Awesome design by the way. This one is already wishlisted on Bricklink. After my other 4 Train related MOCS are fulfilled, I'll begin this one!
  12. Toxic43
    That third version with the staggered vents is my personal favourite! Perfect!
  13. Toxic43
    Thanks! Oh, I know I have to use an external host, I just didn't have time to extract the images and embed them here, so you don't have to click through another link. I'll see if I can get some time later and edit the post so the images are just on this page. Makes it easier for folks to view them without having to leave Eurobricks.
  14. Toxic43
    Stupid name, I know. It wasn't intended to stick, but here we are... This MOC started out as a chassis test and grew from there. I was trying to build as compact a steam based driveline as possible, similar to my Powered Up Shunter from a while back. While that was the smallest I felt I could go with a Diesel (using strictly LEGO parts and legal techniques only) this was kind of the same exercise but with a steam locomotive. Obviously I couldn't hide a battery box in the loco anywhere, so I made a tender. Not prototypical, I know, but this isn't based on anything in particular. It's fantasy for a fictional railway that doesn't really even exist outside of a couple of locos with the WFLR initials on them! That being said, here is my design process so far. Power Tank Engine MOC on Imgur. Sorry for the whole external host thing. Maybe I'll modify the post once I get time to manually resize all the images and embed them from the Imgur links. For now, the external link will have to do. Sorry! I may convert this into a proper tank engine at some point with a coal bunker on the back and a boxcar for the battery box, but I'm pretty happy with it for now.
  15. Toxic43
    Yes! I have supported this one for sure! This is indeed a great rendition of the A4 class, and would be easy enough to switch into another loco with a different pain scheme (as you have already demonstrated!). Train projects don't typically have much luck on ideas, despite one or two seemingly in every review! But I wish you all the luck in the world that this one gets through!
  16. Toxic43
    So according to Promobricks Link Lego may be going the D2C route with this one and keeping only the passenger train for general retail distribution. Now that could mean that potentially, there will be a "Cargo Train" separate from this "Freight Train" akin to the 2015 60098 Heavy Haul Train which was LEGO D2C and a single other retailer (Smyths) here in the UK. Or, on the other hand, it could mean that this set will see little to no discount at all through its service life of 4 years. This is becoming rather disappointing. I can't even use it as a good source of train parts because of the new all plastic, high friction, wheel sets. brb, hitting up Bricklink. Looks like I'm good for a little bit. I just checked and I think 84 should see me through a couple of replacements on these new trains.
  17. Toxic43
    Cab side windows? There's an option as part 65734 is available in trans Clear.
  18. Toxic43
    Some more from the rumour mill on Reddit. NEWS ON THE TRAINS!! Cargo train similar to 2018 but red, with a car carrier plus a station using the road plates. More in the link above.
  19. Toxic43
    These look great! I'm interested in how you put the chassis and cylinders/rods together here. Can't quite see how they're attached. Looks like it would have to be pins or axles, but then I can't see how there would be enough room for the leading wheels to tuck underneath and be able to pivot as is required on this wheel arrangement, Looking forward to your next post on these two!
  20. Toxic43
    Thanks very much! The remaining parts as suggested above arrived today, but wouldn't you know it, now I have COVID, so now I don't have the energy to fit them. Once I get my strength back I'll get the parts installed and post a running video. Presently it runs fine forwards, but switching to reverse will pop the transmission gears apart as all there is holding it together is a couple of studded connections. With the Technic frames I should be able to change direction without issue. Overall, it's just me taking a bunch of ideas from elsewhere and other people and putting them all together with my own spin. I couldn't have got to this part without all the others previously mentioned in this thread.
  21. Toxic43
    @Toastie Thorsten, thank you very much for the CAD drawings! I really appreciate it! The original driveline had these frames built into it but I was put off because I only had one of the larger frames in LBG and none of the smaller ones. I have now ordered all the parts including the frames in black. Your drawing convinced me! I think it'll be a lot stronger overall with this design. I completely omitted bushings on the axles too, which is strange because all my other high torque MOCs have them. The previous steamer I built with 2x L motors had a habit of spitting out gears before I reinforced the driveline with bushings to stop them having anywhere to go. Thanks for the suggestion. I will add them as per the drawing. I did notice some binding in the idler gear too, so I rebuilt that with 2x technic bricks and an axle 3L with stop to prevent it from having anywhere to slide to. I'll probably add a bit more reinforcement around that area too just to make sure no gears have anywhere to slide to. At least I don't have to worry about the 20 tooth as it will be butted up securely against the back of the PU hub! Many thanks again for the CAD drawings! I'll make sure to post another few pictures once the Bricklink orders are in and I have it all assembled. I'll be sure to get an updated running video too. This time on a track. Now that it is 4WD I want to test exactly how much it can pull!
  22. Toxic43
    OK. I tore it down and redesigned the drivetrain in my lunch break today. I redesigned the drivetrain and the rear hood to accommodate the motor horizontally, as opposed to the vertical mounting before. It uses a 12 tooth bevel idler gear between the 20 tooth bevel gear which will be connected to the motor and the 12 tooth bevel gear which connects to the wheel drivetrain below. A better shot of the underside showing the final drive to the wheels. All 4 this time. Hopefully no more slipping! And a view inside from the top. I have it mostly reassembled, but wouldn't you know it I'm missing a 20 tooth bevel gear. I probably have like 20 or so, but can I find one? Once I get the paid at the end of the month I will put in a Bricklink order with the 20t included so I can finish it! I'll post an update once it can move under its own power again!
  23. Toxic43
    So I tried the idea to add coupling rods, but I haven't been able to find a solution which works yet. Even the smallest Technic 1 x 2 liftarm parts are too large for the wheels and connect with the rails on the down stroke. I can't seem to find any working coupling rods done on the standard train wheels with axle hole. The larger train (Steam) wheels are no problem but these smaller ones are a real pain. If anyone has any feedback I'd appreciate it. I did have one idea to use the rubber bands on a couple of technic bushes each side. I may see how that works out but I'm not holding out hope for it. I think the Lego bands I have will be too small.
  24. Toxic43
    Thanks! This is part of the reason I built it so small. Lego hasn't produced anything of this size in quite a while. I'd love to see Lego's designers have a crack at something like this. A smaller shunting loco which runs at a slower speed with a nice set of rolling stock to shunt around and make up a consist. It'll never happen in my lifetime though, hence this! I also put up a short clip of it in motion. I don't really have a track together that I'd be happy showing on camera right now, so it is on my desk/workbench. Which is also a mess, as per usual. Sorry about that!
  25. Toxic43
    Now that is not a bad idea at all. I can't believe I didn't think of it! Thanks for the suggestion. I'll give it a try! It might just be the answer to my problems!
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