Berthil

It's a slow process and I don't know all the silicon oils, but to be safe I would remove it, also because it doesn't really help anyway. After that sand the back a bit thinner as suggested earlier. Or use one that turns smooth 'out of the box'.

I have build an improved variation of this six axis arm robot arm and have used the new blue 12t gears on the turntables, this reduces backlash even further. A worm gear is recommended to use only when forces are not high. I think the main improvement is drive on both sides of the turntables on all axis. the use of the 12t gears improves it further. I have a Stud.io model of his and my version and was planning on creating free building instructions when finished. I'm in the final stages of programming and mainly have used the hub and some motors from the 51515 set (not the ugly teal parts). Mine can rotate freely on banana gear racks as the hub that powers the six motors is on the arm.

A silicon oil carrier can dissolve the (oil based) weakener in LEGO thus making it brittle. I build GBC and have used silicon oil only on gears sparsely when I started. Still, after a year or so, all 24t gears broke in half. For that reason I use only dry teflon (PTFE) and apply with a brush, which can be seen at the end of this video. I've used it for more then 6 years now without problems. But with turntables I had more succes with sanding down the back of the Light Bluish Gray part on a flat 800 sheet on the table until the turnable runs smooth. I especially had to do that for this GBC, otherwise it would not run smoothly. There is quite some variance in how (new) turntables fit together.

I've spend quite some time in redesigning the 910032 Parisian Street from BDP Series 1 to a corner modular while using 98% of the parts. To close up the back I had to add 131 parts not in the set, mostly standard tan bricks. The modular can be split to look inside. Building instruction available on Rebrickable.

Stupid title and again useless discussion. Go make something with plaster if everything should fit together.

With infrared you must point to the model all the time and keep the distance within a meter. So you will be walking with and pointing to your moving model. Believe it, I've done it and kids destroyed several remotes during events where I had a ball dozer GBC with Wall-E running. No such thing with the PoweredUp with Bluetooth. It's fine to only use the PowerFunctions parts from the 42030 set, and keep pointing to the model, but invalidates your question on Pybricks and the remote, as with Pybricks you will be needing a PoweredUp hub. A PoweredUp hub with Pybricks can only work with infrared as I described earlier as it is a mix of older (discontinued) and current LEGO technology. A PowerdUp remote must be used, so the remote from 42030 is not used. In another thread with your questions PoweredUp already was extensively explained to you, you jump from advanced LEGO robotics to discontinued analogue technology in the 42030. You should be clearer/completer with your questions or put some more research time in yourself. Since your building LLMs for AI chatbots, you should be capable of that. With PowerFunctions you can build advanced LEGO robotics with GBC, enough examples and free instructions on my Rebrickable page. It might appeal to you as like me, you seem to come out of your dark ages knowing only the old Technic brick system but a lot has happened since.

With Pybricks it is possible to send out signals to the Powerfunctions infra red receiver with a PoweredUp color sensor: https://docs.pybricks.com/en/latest/pupdevices/pfmotor.html?highlight=infra+red This would let you use the PoweredUp train controller as the remote (without a device) to have the benefit of a Bluetooth connection (instead of the infrared remote which is a nightmare), and use PowerFunctions devices. But both would need a power source or a custom solution to have one power source.

In Stud.io Select rotation, rotation direction and move the mouse outside the rotator to get fine rotation when holding the left mouse button down. I't also possible to textually enter the degrees in 1/100 of a degree so very accurate. The same for Movement for all x, y and z axis.

Most people that create MOCs (My Own Creation) take years to find out what they like to build and adjust their LEGO inventory accordingly. Took me 6 years. So find out first what you would like to build and how in more detail. A bunker probably involves a lot of grey bricks so start with that. Building up an inventory takes years and you can adjust along the way. If you like the Batman Cave than may be black is the way to go, we can't answer that for you. If you mean military bunker than LEGO might not be the best choice as LEGO has no military theme. If your survival bunker is an underground house you might want to look into the LEGO Modular theme. Sources for bricks are (discounted or second hand) sets, LEGO Pick a Brick online, Bricklink and the Pick a Brick wall at your local official LEGO store (assuming you have one near you). I find sets not so good for inventory building unless you can re-use complete builds, otherwise your mostly left with a lot of useless parts. Bricklink Stud.io is a free building software. You can start building tonight and order the exact bricks you need from the above mentioned sources when your MOC is ready.

From Pybricks (Laurens). We don't know if this is true for all future hubs but if it is, start buying the existing ones. I bought a second hand 51515 only for the hub. It can run all day connected to a 3 Ampere USB power source. Strange, all PowerdUp motors have a PID and can be power and angle controlled from the hub with Pybricks, except the smallest one that resembles the PowerFunctions M motor. How else would this be possible if your remark is correct?

Exactly my 3rd answer in this 41 posts long topic. So far I did not have issues with Pybricks and hardware from the Control+/WeDo/PoweredUp/City/SPIKE/Mindstorms or whatever name it has. Look at the plug that goes in the hub and if it fits it should work. Only the Move hub will have difficulty with Pybricks as it does not have enough working memory and the latest All-in-one hub as it has encrypted firmware and cannot be replaced byPybricks. So what Lok24 says, just start and come with clear questions.

Those pictures are very small, even after going to the creator's Flickr page. You might try and message Oliver Seon on Flickr for the MOC details.

If you hold them in your hand, or put them on the table, or handle them in any way for scanning, you might as well put them in the right container straight away so they are only handled once. Not useful for me and certainly not a game changer for me. My collection I have on Rebrickable, I know that one will stay around.

Your link brings me to the Eurobricks frontpage news.

It uses these parts as glass roof and these parts as bows which was visible on the pictures. The top is connected with a 4L bar and 4 technic half bushes to fill up te space between the bow ends. The glass is not connected at the top, it stays in place with the hinge plates at the bottom.

Nice touch to put in only elevator doors thus avoiding stairs.

I've been reading this topic too, I'm just using beams to lock Technic bricks into place and have ditched all Technic panels. For me there hasn't been a nice Technic set with good functions and looks the last decade or more. And I build GBC machines with a lot of Technic. The sets do not seem to be about Technic anymore, it just carries the same name. All those panels with gaps covering up other gaps with whatever gearbox under it doesn't get my Technic heart going. I'm a big fan of the model team approach as that combines the best of both System and Technic. Although not many gears in it, I find the Da Vinci machine more technic than most Technic sets. As that set has history and explains a mechanism. And without IP, as that seems to be the driving force behind many current Technic sets. But it doesn't matter what I write, or we all write, as TLG will set out their own path for profit despite all LUGs and user groups and whatever, those groups have no leverage against the general buying public. That should be clear by now. So y'all can write what you want wherever you want, it will have no influence on TLG strategy. Therefore totally useless topic with no influence anywhere, like most opinion topics on Eurobricks these days. Just too many opinion topics, go design and build something! And show it instead of just opinionate.

I'm making a six axis robot arm and I have programmed in such a way that at shutdown it always goes to the start position (also called shutdown position), or if something goes wrong, I have a manual mode with a remote where I can move everything manually to that position. If you then shutdown and startup the hub and make all movements relative to that position, no calibration is needed as the start position is the calibration point.

A Blueprint to build the coming year, a more integrated GBC with a theme and system bricks.

@Gravibrick With Inventor elements I assume you mean PowerdUp? @NDL-GBC has made a Pybricks program for the Akiyuki color sorter for PU, maybe he can comment if he wants to share. The advantage of Pybricks is that you do not need a device to run but you need to flash the Pybricks firmware. Going back to the LEGO firmware is easy.

Just buy PowerdUp motors and sensors and a large Spike/Mindstorms or Technic hub, they all work together. Pybricks.com is the way to go with programming. I just build a 6-axis robot arm with it. Akiyuki just proved Pybricks is the way to go after doing a lot with EV3 Mindstorms.

One of the reasons why I didn't continue with my Friends/BBT complex which was earlier than most and I still think my Friends ground floor is the most compact and complete one out there, and for free. I bought other sitcom sets with the aim to add floors but also soon lost interest to design those. I just finished rebricking Parisian Street to a very nice corner modular, free instructions will be published soon. That was more rewarding for me than designing another Sitcom floor.

I have a lot of LEGO as compensation for growing up in a poor family not being able to buy LEGO. I understand the point of doing something good with it when not needed anymore. But it is also possible to use the LEGO for something good, rather than giving to charity. Of course creativity is needed for that and you already indicated your creative outlet is somewhere else. As a creative outlet I create MOCs and create free building instructions for them that many people enjoy. Next do that, I do shows for free with the ball machines to see many happy faces. So it is not all greed or brand obsession.

Very nice buildings with very good outside wall textures and details, especially the church. Your city looks great!

@Fyredog thank you and have fun with your build!