T_Tank

I did find a video on the youtube showing a guy with a working abit slow as dirt runner moving with accurate steering you could think of it kinda like the front end of a motorcycle but with a lot more caster but hopefully this gives you some ideas.

Bit of a bump/double post but had a idea How would folks feel about a 5292 replica but with a removable motor (like 2 small screws hold the motor in place and possibly ball bearings on the output shafts to make it more efficient an possibly smoother running? Might be possible to do with though the inside gear ratio might have to be changed to so we can have it properly printed out though that all depends on a few things. The inside of the 5292 isn't all that complex from the looks of it besides figuring how to make the gears. Maybe redesign the gears so they are in a 32 pitch since the tollerances would be more forgiving in 32pitch though the gear with the spur would need a finer pitch well least something we can find possibly 48 pitch or very unlikely 64 pitch.

Well wondering I don't think lego uses a 48 pitch gear but actually delrin pinion would be better then the brass especially because of the low friction so it be possibly smoother operation but just a thought

think you can figure out the tooth count gear pitch on the stock lego motor pinion gear? (the little brass gear) usually can find a lot of pinion gears online an might be able to find a set that will work in the stock gear box of the lego motors. Also a better quesstion I think is not to look at the L motor for performance but the buggy motors! I'm sure thosse poor things could use a new motor in them a few of them probably have worn out brushes. Has anyone been able to take apart a buggy motor? (5292)

Thats pretty cool using the mini Z motors which makes me think.... How about we go brushless as they last a lot longer then brushed motors though only thing avail in that can size is team orions mini Z motors... Might be a bit super overkill though! http://www.teamorion.com/vortex-mini-z-bl-motor-stock-5600-kv-en-2-3.html?sl=EN

Now thats fun to watch gave it a little to much gas in the turn I see there but the steering control with a servo I'm sure is so much better then any of the lego options avail. as for the measurements for the hs-85mg servo https://www.servocity.com/html/hs-85mg__mighty_micro.html#.VLX8vivF8uk Thats the one place I can find the most complete set of dimensions for the servo

rc cars are fun but making a rc car that you can lego together would be more fun even if its only going 20-25mph on a fairly light model. Depend on the quality of the servo you can get just about prefect return to center though any play in the steering would make it a bit... tricky but thats what clever thinking with legos comes in!

Rc servos return to center without a esc don't know what your talking about unless your talking about robotics grade ones that you need to program. A normal hobby grade servo returns to center and with your radio you can adjust the endpoints even if its fancy enough. Issue with lubrication isn't much there as you'd think they do make plenty of dry lubricant to avoid letting dirt grab a hold. As for weakest motors... do you understand hobby grade rc's much? Could throw in a 500kv outrunner motor and it have a very low rpm but it rock torque that blow xl motors away by a long shot or you go with a 5000kv inrunner which have low torque but very high rpm potential you can use either or if you build your model correctly. If folks can have a 20mph 99% 3D printed rc car with brushless motor plastic printed gears an axles only using bearings an screws legos which are known for their near perfect uniform tollerances will hold just fine throw a little dry lube an she'll live! Though I would say we need some wheel hubs that use bearings between the steering part an the hub part thats where the MOST friction is.

So by standard rc servo which servo did you use for refference something like a a savox sc-1257tg? usually some 1/10th servos have the output slightly closer or further from the edge but this is big news to me using a fully proportional servo in a lego build has always been a minor pain for me to figure how to do! Think you could make a version of that can fit a HS-85MG micro servo? and possibly some sort of mount for a 380 can size'd rc motor?? (I think most motors use 2 screw mounts that are 12mm apart or 14mm apart) you might have to experiment with shapeways metal for a pinion to lego connector adapter so you could hook the motor to the drive train. Speaking of drive train... lego axles are roughly 5mm right? We could probably use some sort of adapter to put 5mm id 9mm od 3mm thick rc bearings in place if someone wants to go nutty an put a 380 brushless motor in a lego model >>>

So much want the stratos is my number 1 dream car!! To bad i'm to tall to drive a real one :c

amazingly well done using so few bricks! looks beautiful!!!

the gear rack works like a charm! as for the stability with how its mounted now I have some nice articulation (if i had softer springs equipped) compared to how the stock one. Now just figuring out how to send power to the gear rack since there is no room to mount the motor directly so using a few 16t gears in the pass through an none pass through! Also there is some flexibility to the axle but nothing bad at all once its all put together.

been working on my mini mog today with that new front axle I had to redo the front suspension but needed to anyways but here some pic links of the axle mounted! https://lh6.googleus...0530_171508.jpg https://lh3.googleus...dw=w620-h349-no https://lh5.googleus...0530_171607.jpg Those mini cv's look awesome by the way!

I got the front axle in will take some photos when I have a chance its temp mounted into the front of my mini mog the round holes are a bit tight though thats bit due to the unfinished material.

Was thinking a gearbox of some kind similar to how the buggy motor is but with a larger motor on the end I'd go with the 24mm sized motor to start with http://i00.i.aliimg.com/img/pb/067/527/333/333527067_338.JPG which would use a 48p gear. For meshing I'd go with something that allows one side of the motor to slide further into or off of the spur gear. At least 3 to 4 gears should be used in the gear box not including the pinion gear so we can have enough clearance to run a axle under the 24mm diameter from the output of the gear box. also might need to throw some metal into the mix in the form of bushings or bearings of some kind in metric Hope this isn't to much to ask for

think you can combine this http://www.bricklink...tem.asp?P=92906 with that http://www.bricklink...tem.asp?P=6538c? but only for 1 studs worth of axle inside? Also... thinking about the rc motor but it needs a REAL rc motor like a 240-380 can sized motor compared to the rather small one inside.. Would need to have internal gears that are a gear pitch common in the rc hobby world.. 240motors are 24mm in diameter 380 are 38mm in diameter bolt patterns if memory serves me right are 12mm and 14mm spacing from hole to hole on the motors

well if possible the female cv connector with a 1 stud axle connector like this http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=6538c

opposite part of that but with a female axle connector on the end like how the U-joints are where you can put axles on either side.

Would it be possible to make a female cv connector with a female axle adapter on it compared to how it is now? This way you could use a 5.5 axle with stop if you wanted more axle to hold wheels on.

love the rc function you put in though part of me would also just love to have a static version wonder if the dressed up vw engine I built many moons ago would fit http://www.brickshel...w_boxer_lxf.jpg

I feel the quality of the parts is spot on like a lot of things i've ordered through shapeways the finish is abit rough but i'm curious to how the fitment would be with a polished set.

Got the diff in finally was a little tight after getting it together but running it through with one of my brushless rc's loosened it up. I think the diff could handle a bit of torque might be awesome to use in some touring car builds!

still waiting on my 20z diff to come in though seeing the video look forward to putting them in my mini unimog!

I was wondering about tatra stuff though is it even possible to make a tatra style differential???

went ahead an ordered a set will be interesting to see how it comes out may need to sand an polish where moving parts meet.